LS7 clutch swap
I started my LS7 clutch swap last night. We have every thing out. Today I will presure wash the tranny, rearend and the rear craddle. While I have everything out I'm going to replace the axle seals and O rings on the rear end and also replace the fuel pumps and sending units.
Here are some pictures.






Here are some pictures.






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Nice progress you've made so far. Good luck with the rest of the replacement.
Tremendously impressive. You may have already considered this but since you already have gone this far, you might also consider:
- Replacing the torque tube bearings and couplers
- Replacing transmission mounts
- Adding a speed bleeder (if you don't already have one)
- Upgrading your tunnel plate to the Elite Engineering plate (if you haven't already)
- the rear engine seal where the torque tube meets the motor
Look forward to hearing how it turns out
- Replacing the torque tube bearings and couplers
- Replacing transmission mounts
- Adding a speed bleeder (if you don't already have one)
- Upgrading your tunnel plate to the Elite Engineering plate (if you haven't already)
- the rear engine seal where the torque tube meets the motor
Look forward to hearing how it turns out
Took out the old clutch, presure plate and fly wheel last night but then we got stuck on removing the old pilot bearing. so today I'll get the right tool and remove it then put the new clutch kit in. Heres a picture of the old one. It was getting pretty thin.

It's a high as it is in the pictures. It's tight but we had enough room.
I have a friend (really good one) who is helping, actually he is doing alot of it and I'm helping him, LOL. I couldn't imagine doing this alone.
I wanted to give him $500.00 but I don't know if that is enough.
Thanks Guys. We have about 5-6 hours invested in it now.
Thanks for the advice. I'm taking apart the torque tube tonight to check the couplers, praying that they are good. My funds are getting quite low, I just ordered 2 fuel pumps, the axle seals and O ring gaskets for the rear end along with the RTV sealer that they recomend and a fuel filter. Tranny mount is fine and so is the rear main seal. I wanted the E.E plate but am going to have to pass on it.

how high up off the ground did you end up getting it ...do you think that was enough space to do all of the work?
You doing this by yourself or with some help??
I wanted to give him $500.00 but I don't know if that is enough.
way to get after it!!!
Wow, quite the impressive job you are doing
Tremendously impressive. You may have already considered this but since you already have gone this far, you might also consider:
- Replacing the torque tube bearings and couplers
- Replacing transmission mounts
- Adding a speed bleeder (if you don't already have one)
- Upgrading your tunnel plate to the Elite Engineering plate (if you haven't already)
- the rear engine seal where the torque tube meets the motor
Look forward to hearing how it turns out
- Replacing the torque tube bearings and couplers
- Replacing transmission mounts
- Adding a speed bleeder (if you don't already have one)
- Upgrading your tunnel plate to the Elite Engineering plate (if you haven't already)
- the rear engine seal where the torque tube meets the motor
Look forward to hearing how it turns out
We used to remove a stubborn pilot bearing by packing it full of grease, insert an old trans input shaft and hit it with a hammer. They always popped right out. Sadly, this can be catastrophic on any LS motor. PLEASE do not remove your pilot bearing as I have described.
Last edited by tremor1; Jan 20, 2013 at 03:35 PM. Reason: corrected bogus advice
Dont do this it is a bad idea the LS Series motors have a plug in the back of the crank and if you do this you will be in deep do-do trust me. The best way to getting the new one in is to put it in the freezer for about 7-8 hrs. it will shrink enough to go in easy remember to pack the pilot bearing with lube and press it in with the solid end facing out and the open end towards the motor
Pops
Dont do this it is a bad idea the LS Series motors have a plug in the back of the crank and if you do this you will be in deep do-do trust me. The best way to getting the new one in is to put it in the freezer for about 7-8 hrs. it will shrink enough to go in easy remember to pack the pilot bearing with lube and press it in with the solid end facing out and the open end towards the motor
Pops
Pops
I might be able to hook you up with a free set of driveshaft couplers.
Man what a job. You got a big set to tackle this. My head would explode if I tried something like that. Kudos to the Corvette Forum and Chaplain for helping slvr bulit out.
Updated PM sent
Do you guys think I should change out the reverse lock out switch on the tranny? It's right here and easy to do right now while its out.
waiting on parts to get here from gm partshouse so I took apart the torque tube and checked the bearings and couplers. they looked brand new so back together it went. also got to change the oil and filter.




Dont do this it is a bad idea the LS Series motors have a plug in the back of the crank and if you do this you will be in deep do-do trust me. The best way to getting the new one in is to put it in the freezer for about 7-8 hrs. it will shrink enough to go in easy remember to pack the pilot bearing with lube and press it in with the solid end facing out and the open end towards the motor
Pops
Pops




















