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LS7 clutch swap

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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:50 AM
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Default LS7 clutch swap

I started my LS7 clutch swap last night. We have every thing out. Today I will presure wash the tranny, rearend and the rear craddle. While I have everything out I'm going to replace the axle seals and O rings on the rear end and also replace the fuel pumps and sending units.
Here are some pictures.













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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:00 PM
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Nice progress you've made so far. Good luck with the rest of the replacement.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:08 PM
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Nice progress you've made so far. Good luck with the rest of the replacement.
Thank you. It's quite the job.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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how high up off the ground did you end up getting it ...do you think that was enough space to do all of the work?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:24 PM
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You doing this by yourself or with some help??
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:26 PM
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way to get after it!!!
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:38 PM
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Wow, quite the impressive job you are doing
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:28 PM
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Tremendously impressive. You may have already considered this but since you already have gone this far, you might also consider:

- Replacing the torque tube bearings and couplers
- Replacing transmission mounts
- Adding a speed bleeder (if you don't already have one)
- Upgrading your tunnel plate to the Elite Engineering plate (if you haven't already)
- the rear engine seal where the torque tube meets the motor

Look forward to hearing how it turns out
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 12:19 AM
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looks like your making huge progress, keep us posted
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 11:31 AM
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Took out the old clutch, presure plate and fly wheel last night but then we got stuck on removing the old pilot bearing. so today I'll get the right tool and remove it then put the new clutch kit in. Heres a picture of the old one. It was getting pretty thin.



how high up off the ground did you end up getting it ...do you think that was enough space to do all of the work?
It's a high as it is in the pictures. It's tight but we had enough room.

You doing this by yourself or with some help??
I have a friend (really good one) who is helping, actually he is doing alot of it and I'm helping him, LOL. I couldn't imagine doing this alone.
I wanted to give him $500.00 but I don't know if that is enough.

way to get after it!!!
Wow, quite the impressive job you are doing
Thanks Guys. We have about 5-6 hours invested in it now.

Tremendously impressive. You may have already considered this but since you already have gone this far, you might also consider:

- Replacing the torque tube bearings and couplers
- Replacing transmission mounts
- Adding a speed bleeder (if you don't already have one)
- Upgrading your tunnel plate to the Elite Engineering plate (if you haven't already)
- the rear engine seal where the torque tube meets the motor

Look forward to hearing how it turns out
Thanks for the advice. I'm taking apart the torque tube tonight to check the couplers, praying that they are good. My funds are getting quite low, I just ordered 2 fuel pumps, the axle seals and O ring gaskets for the rear end along with the RTV sealer that they recomend and a fuel filter. Tranny mount is fine and so is the rear main seal. I wanted the E.E plate but am going to have to pass on it.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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I always enjoy reading these posts. Good job and keep the pics coming.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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We used to remove a stubborn pilot bearing by packing it full of grease, insert an old trans input shaft and hit it with a hammer. They always popped right out. Sadly, this can be catastrophic on any LS motor. PLEASE do not remove your pilot bearing as I have described.

Last edited by tremor1; Jan 20, 2013 at 03:35 PM. Reason: corrected bogus advice
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by tremor1
We used to remove a stubborn pilot bearing by packing it full of grease, insert an old trans input shaft and hit it with a hammer. They always popped right out.

Dont do this it is a bad idea the LS Series motors have a plug in the back of the crank and if you do this you will be in deep do-do trust me. The best way to getting the new one in is to put it in the freezer for about 7-8 hrs. it will shrink enough to go in easy remember to pack the pilot bearing with lube and press it in with the solid end facing out and the open end towards the motor


Pops
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:07 AM
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Dont do this it is a bad idea the LS Series motors have a plug in the back of the crank and if you do this you will be in deep do-do trust me. The best way to getting the new one in is to put it in the freezer for about 7-8 hrs. it will shrink enough to go in easy remember to pack the pilot bearing with lube and press it in with the solid end facing out and the open end towards the motor


Pops
Thank you for the advice. Ill put the bearing in the freezer.

I might be able to hook you up with a free set of driveshaft couplers.
You have a pm. Thank you
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:09 AM
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Do you guys think I should change out the reverse lock out switch on the tranny? It's right here and easy to do right now while its out.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by slvr bulit
Do you guys think I should change out the reverse lock out switch on the tranny? It's right here and easy to do right now while its out.
Yes= 15 years old!

Last edited by bumble-z; Jan 18, 2013 at 02:24 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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Man what a job. You got a big set to tackle this. My head would explode if I tried something like that. Kudos to the Corvette Forum and Chaplain for helping slvr bulit out.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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Man what a job. You got a big set to tackle this. My head would explode if I tried something like that. Kudos to the Corvette Forum and Chaplain for helping slvr bulit out.
Thanks bro. Trust me I second guessed my self a few times. It's hard seeing your baby up on jack stands with its gutts all over the floor. I wouldn't have tried this with out my friend Tony. Just hope it all goes back together and runs after. LOL

Updated PM sent
Thank you again for your offer.

Do you guys think I should change out the reverse lock out switch on the tranny? It's right here and easy to do right now while its out.
I took it out and cleaned and tested it, worked fine so its going back in, also did the anti-vemon mod.
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 10:48 AM
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waiting on parts to get here from gm partshouse so I took apart the torque tube and checked the bearings and couplers. they looked brand new so back together it went. also got to change the oil and filter.





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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BOUT X
Dont do this it is a bad idea the LS Series motors have a plug in the back of the crank and if you do this you will be in deep do-do trust me. The best way to getting the new one in is to put it in the freezer for about 7-8 hrs. it will shrink enough to go in easy remember to pack the pilot bearing with lube and press it in with the solid end facing out and the open end towards the motor


Pops
Advice withdrawn. Good catch Pops
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