??? The upper radiator support just sits on top of everything else. Not sure how else it would fit.

 

Just called Vararam again. Tbey want we to try to install the MAF in the stock location. I tried it last night with no luck. Installed the stock bridge and made that work. but they want me to try again and send them photos to try to figure it out. Funny, I read so many threads and really though it was more of an impatient thing by people not giving it a chance..... I was wrong. Either way, gonna try again now and will post pics of the issue.
Does the upper radiator support fit a certain way? Does it hook to the upper edge of the radiator shroud or just sit on top of it? I see the 3 tabs that kind of lock the fans in place.

 

This is more for clarification but it should fit just like this:



When putting the radiator shroud back in, you have to tuck it underneath the support if it sticks out.

Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with this. Hopefully you can get it figured out.

 

My guess without photos is you got the wrong duct. They had 2 different types.

 

From what I've read, the ducts are the same other than the early version has the hole and grommet for the IAT sensor.

 

PER-SE-VER-ANCE

steady persistence in a course of action, a purpose, a state, etc., especially in spite of difficulties, obstacles, or discouragement.


Got it squared away. Fits like a glove! Just had to keep fooling with the arangement like a puzzle. Here is my setup in case anyone else needs it down the road.

1) Fog light shrouds/ducts are not screwed into the bumper.
2) MAF sensor inserted into Filter box lid. Used one of the 2" couplers and two clamps.
3) MAF sensor with 1" coupler on the lip.
4) Power Duct with 2" coupler that slides over the 1" MAF coupler
5" Power Duct with the 4" coupler on the TB side. Trimmed off 7/8"

It fits together solid as a rock and flexes no problem with the motor. I found it super easy to take apart to get to the filter and put back together. Very simple and I'm extremely happy with the setup.

 

So here's how it gets taken in and out with ease.

The filter Box lid stays clamped to the MAF sensor with the couplers on both sides of the MAF clamped down.

The Power Duct keeps the 3 1/8" coupler clamped down. It's a B!tch to get the coupler onto that side of the duct so I'm glad it easier to leave it on! You can see the piece I trimmed off.


With the Filter Box lid and MAF installed, take the Power Duct and slide the Throttle Body coupler over the TB. The MAF side of the Power Duct will easily push down and insert into the coupler. Simply push into position and tighten the last 2 clamps.

 

With everything connected and solid the fog light shrouds still wouldn't line up good enough. Plus I wasn't sure if they would move. I was able to install a zip tie on both sides to lift and hold the shroud up around the fog lights. This too was pretty easy to do, even by myself. A helper would have made all of this that much easier!!!

Here you can see where I connected the zip tie and tied it off on the Fog bracket. I left some slack so it can flex but it holds it in place nicely.

 

Now I just need to figure out how I'm gonna reinstall the grilles. Double sided tape again, Velcro, silicone adhesive.....

 

Congrats! Glad to hear everything finally worked out. I'd use double sided tape on the grilles. That's how a lot of the aftermarket ones fit on and people seem happy with that option.

 

That's what my RaceMesh grilles came with and they stayed put for more than 2 years until I just pulled them out for this job. I would love to be able to remove them but not sure what would work. I've heard velcro, but I just don't see it working. As soon as you go to remove it, I'm betting both sides of the velcro would pull out or remain in. I'm most likely gonna tape it again.

I'm more worried about crap sucking into the ducts. Almost thinking of putting a finer screen in front of the ducts behind the grilles. The grille openings are big enough to let a lot of crap in.

 

And for the record, there was zero (0) chance of making it work with the MAF relocated. I shoved the MAF into the duct as far as it could possibly go and clamped it down. Without a coupler on, I tried to place the Power Duct and MAF into position. With the flange of the MAF against the flange of the Throttle Body, the Power Duct hits the radiator top cover and will not align or sit down over the radiator cover. On the bottom of the Duct where it starts to flare out to create the opening for the MAF is where it hits. If I had to make it work, I would have thought about using a heat gun to try to heat that area of the Power Duct and reshape/clearance that area so it could drop down over the radiator cover.
Vararam asked which MAF I had. He asked if I had the one with all metal flanges or one with synthetic/plastic flanges. Not that I knew anything about a different MAF on C5's but when I told him mine was all metal he suggested to just install it in the factory location. Maybe the other style is thinner and doesn't take up as much space between the TB and duct??

 

Well, after some driving time I'm happy with the results. It is night and day over the stock box. To be fair, I had an ECS tune done after I installed the Halltech intake I had the last couple years. When I sold it and went back to the stock intake for my smog test, the car didn't idle as smooth and just wasnt aggressive or snappy.
The Vararam gave me those qualities back and I feel a bit more than the Halltech did. It's not drastic like so many try to say it is but it's surely better.
And I don't hear sucking noise like some claim, even with my head by the ducts. Then again it was only idling.
One thing I did as I'm worried about sucking up crap into the ducts. I know the filter should stop it, but I don't want the filter getting clogged up either. I picked up some heavy duty screen door material at the hardware store. Cut a couple pieces to temporaraly place over the duct openings. What I'm doing is installing the screen in my Racemesh grilles. I painted it gloss black and will install them right behind, inside the molded frame, of the Racemesh grilles. This should stop smaller debri that may have made it through the bigger openings of the grilles. I installed a test piece and with my Polished SS grilles, you can't even notice the black screen behind it. I think it's a good idea and will work well.
Also need to adjust my fog lights. Either they are just out of what from being taken out several times why my front end was off the car, or the zip tied shrouds are messing with them. I shall see.
Also need to get busy on my LS6 intake I picked up. I decided I want to paint it so it's about 1/4 sanded down. I'm gonna try to do a matte red finish on it like it's a red plastic.

 

Seriously consider siliconing the filter into the upper housing. If not now you will when you see something that went past the filter when you do the intake.

 

You should be as thorough as possible with this...
I used custom trimmed/shaped foam, taped in place with double-sided tape to the piece the filter lives in. I have to compress the foam to insert the filter. It helps ensure a good seal. The downside is that over time the filter sticks to the foam and when I need to clean the filter I have to recut and install new foam.

One of the "solutions" I'm considering to address this issue down the road, is re-molding the area where I have the foam in now with epoxy to get a closer tolerance for the filter. That mod will have to wait for a bit for now...

Glad it all worked out for you...

 

Where did you apply the silicone? There is the perimeter foam gasket that the filter fits inside of. Did you apply it against that gasket or to the backside of the filter where it seats into the lid? I was thinking of adding rubber seals to really have a tight seal when it gets clamped down.

 

Don't forget that if something happened to get through the filter, 4-5 inches later is the MAF screen. It's about screen door size screening.

I'll post pics in a while but I installed the screening in my Racemesh grilles. I'm sure it will effect the fog lights a bit but I will go to HIDs eventually and still be brighter than I am right now. They seem to be more for looks anyway. So the incoming air will have to pass through the thick SS Racemesh grille backed by the fine metal screen door material then to the filter which I completely siliconed into the housing. If by miracle something made it through all of those, then it deals with the MAF screen. I think it's protected.

I can see how something could possible get through the Racemesh grilles if I don't seal them all the way around. Not sure how hard they will be to remove later.