Pull key/ Service Column Lock
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Joined: Dec 2012
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Pull key/ Service Column Lock
First off, yes I've used the search feature. Now, I have a 1999 FRC, it has been this way since I bought the car. The person I bought it from said the CLB was already installed. Whenever you turn the key on you get the "pull key wait" message, the car will still run and drive fine, (I assume fuel shut off has been reprogrammed) but the code cannot be cleared with the key on. You can turn the key back off and hit reset and it will go away, then it will pop up "service column lock" that one can also be cleared (except the key doesn't have to be off to clear that one). The steering column does not lock, ever. I've cleaned the resistor on the key. I've pulled fuses to reset the BCM. I tested the battery, it was 12.8 volts, I turned the headlights and heater on (car off) to bleed off "surface charge" then tested again 12.4 volts. I have tested the alternator, it is 14.2 at the battery and 14.4 at the alternator. I have just been putting up with the codes, but their starting to annoy me. I attached pictures of the wires coming off of the relay as well. I am now totally out of ideas! Anyone have any insight on this? 
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2012
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If your car does have the column lock bypass (CLB) in place and the Column Lock Spliced Purple Wire Relay mod, made by the dealer as a part of the GM Column Lock Service, is NOT bypassed (yours is clearly still in place) you will get the message you are receiving.
Here is what you need to do to bypass the Column Lock Relay to eliminate that pesky message:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577935348-post15.html
That spliced purple wire causes a 12 volt signal to be sent to the lock motor (Now CLB that you have installed) after the unlock signal was sent. It's design purpose is to send a continuous 12 volt "unlock" signal to the lock motor so that a lock of the column cannot occur while the car is in motion. Unfortunately this signal causes the CLB to respond again to the BCM (Lock motor didn't) and that extra response confuses the BCM column lock logic.
The bypass is a permanent wire so tape it over to insure it doesn't fall out. Relay head does NOT get reinstalled. You CANNOT just remove the relay head. You need to bypass the relay as shown.... You MAY get the Pull Key.... message the first time after you bypass the relay. Do what it says and remove the key for at least 10 seconds. Then retry it and the Pull Key.... message WILL be gone and not recurr on subsequent starts..
For the benefit of other readers the bypass of the Column Lock Relay ONLY applies to 99 and 2000 manual trans C5's that had the spliced purple wire and relay mod done to them. DO NOT bypass the relay on 2001 - 2004 C5's. The 97 and 98 C5's didn't have the CLR but rather the lock motor was driven directly by the BCM without the isolation of a relay.
Here is what you need to do to bypass the Column Lock Relay to eliminate that pesky message:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577935348-post15.html
That spliced purple wire causes a 12 volt signal to be sent to the lock motor (Now CLB that you have installed) after the unlock signal was sent. It's design purpose is to send a continuous 12 volt "unlock" signal to the lock motor so that a lock of the column cannot occur while the car is in motion. Unfortunately this signal causes the CLB to respond again to the BCM (Lock motor didn't) and that extra response confuses the BCM column lock logic.
The bypass is a permanent wire so tape it over to insure it doesn't fall out. Relay head does NOT get reinstalled. You CANNOT just remove the relay head. You need to bypass the relay as shown.... You MAY get the Pull Key.... message the first time after you bypass the relay. Do what it says and remove the key for at least 10 seconds. Then retry it and the Pull Key.... message WILL be gone and not recurr on subsequent starts..
For the benefit of other readers the bypass of the Column Lock Relay ONLY applies to 99 and 2000 manual trans C5's that had the spliced purple wire and relay mod done to them. DO NOT bypass the relay on 2001 - 2004 C5's. The 97 and 98 C5's didn't have the CLR but rather the lock motor was driven directly by the BCM without the isolation of a relay.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2012
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Four additional things you need to check and do them in this order:
1)Make certain you bypassed the Column Lock Relay CORRECTLY. There are two orange wires in the wiring base of the CLR. DOUBLE check your bypass work.
2) Verify that your battery is good. I know you said you tested it but test it THIS way. The column lock system will fail to work properly is the No Load battery voltage is not GREATER than 12.5 volts. No Load voltage is what you measure directly across the battery posts with the NEG battery cable disconnected. Dash Gauge voltage tells you the state of health of the Charging System NOT the state of health of the battery when the engine is running. With key on and engine off there are many electrical circuits in the C5 loading the battery so this dash gauge voltage means nothing
A good battery at full charge will measure between 12.7 and 12.9 volts No Load. Car starts just fine with as little as 12.2 volts but the Column Lock electronics WILL fail if the No Load battery voltage is not greater than 12.5 volts. Column lock runs BEFORE the engine starts so having alternator voltage after the engine is running is TOO late.
3) Check the following fuses in the fuse box in the passenger footwell:
9, 13, 19, 22, 23, 25, 29, 47 and 50. Replace any that are blown. Depending upon RPO's on your car there may NOT be a fuse in position 22.
4) If the car has a CLB installed you need verify that the CLB was NOT plugged into the GM K Harness. If the recall service was done correctly and it was done BEFORE Jan 2006, then it should NOT have a K Harness installed. That doesn't mean that some Tech didn't incorrectly install one. If the Recall service was done AFTER Jan 2006, then there likely was a GM K Harness installed. Here is a pic of a K Harness:
You can easily recognize if a K Harness is installed. You need to drop the drivers side knee bolster. Here is a link to a CLB install. The first part details dropping the knee bolster with Pic's and tools needed:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
With the bolster out of the way look for a CLB. It should look like this:
https://corvetteworldparts.com/43-co...mn-lock-bypass
The square box with the single tail of wire and the male connector is the CLB.
Check the female connector that the CLB plugs into and on the backside of the female connector look at the wires coming out of the female connector. If there are only 2, 1 white and 1 purple, then the CLB is plugged into the K Harness. This is WRONG..... Unplug the CLB Male connector and let it hang for a minute.
Follow the white and purple wires to the relay portion of the K Harness and then follow the 4 wires from the relay back to another male connector that is plugged into a female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Unplug the K Harness male connector and plug the CLB male connector into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. The K Harness is NOT needed.
Before you button up the knee bolster, check the operation of the CLB. Put the key into the ignition and turn it toward the start position but DO NOT start the car. If you get the Pull key..... message do as it says and try it again. You should NOT get the Pull Key message again. I would try this a few times before putting the knee bolster back up.
Post back your results please............
1)Make certain you bypassed the Column Lock Relay CORRECTLY. There are two orange wires in the wiring base of the CLR. DOUBLE check your bypass work.
2) Verify that your battery is good. I know you said you tested it but test it THIS way. The column lock system will fail to work properly is the No Load battery voltage is not GREATER than 12.5 volts. No Load voltage is what you measure directly across the battery posts with the NEG battery cable disconnected. Dash Gauge voltage tells you the state of health of the Charging System NOT the state of health of the battery when the engine is running. With key on and engine off there are many electrical circuits in the C5 loading the battery so this dash gauge voltage means nothing
A good battery at full charge will measure between 12.7 and 12.9 volts No Load. Car starts just fine with as little as 12.2 volts but the Column Lock electronics WILL fail if the No Load battery voltage is not greater than 12.5 volts. Column lock runs BEFORE the engine starts so having alternator voltage after the engine is running is TOO late.
3) Check the following fuses in the fuse box in the passenger footwell:
9, 13, 19, 22, 23, 25, 29, 47 and 50. Replace any that are blown. Depending upon RPO's on your car there may NOT be a fuse in position 22.
4) If the car has a CLB installed you need verify that the CLB was NOT plugged into the GM K Harness. If the recall service was done correctly and it was done BEFORE Jan 2006, then it should NOT have a K Harness installed. That doesn't mean that some Tech didn't incorrectly install one. If the Recall service was done AFTER Jan 2006, then there likely was a GM K Harness installed. Here is a pic of a K Harness:
You can easily recognize if a K Harness is installed. You need to drop the drivers side knee bolster. Here is a link to a CLB install. The first part details dropping the knee bolster with Pic's and tools needed:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
With the bolster out of the way look for a CLB. It should look like this:
https://corvetteworldparts.com/43-co...mn-lock-bypass
The square box with the single tail of wire and the male connector is the CLB.
Check the female connector that the CLB plugs into and on the backside of the female connector look at the wires coming out of the female connector. If there are only 2, 1 white and 1 purple, then the CLB is plugged into the K Harness. This is WRONG..... Unplug the CLB Male connector and let it hang for a minute.
Follow the white and purple wires to the relay portion of the K Harness and then follow the 4 wires from the relay back to another male connector that is plugged into a female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Unplug the K Harness male connector and plug the CLB male connector into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. The K Harness is NOT needed.
Before you button up the knee bolster, check the operation of the CLB. Put the key into the ignition and turn it toward the start position but DO NOT start the car. If you get the Pull key..... message do as it says and try it again. You should NOT get the Pull Key message again. I would try this a few times before putting the knee bolster back up.
Post back your results please............
Will try the other stuff you suggested too and get back.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 43
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Your battery is bad. 12.4 is NOT going to let the column lock logic function.
If you can drain the battery down to 12.4 with a minute of headlights and heater it is time to replace it....... Dead serious on this. The column lock WILL NOT FUNCTION CORRECTLY with 12.5 or less No Load volts. 12.4 won't cut it.
If you can drain the battery down to 12.4 with a minute of headlights and heater it is time to replace it....... Dead serious on this. The column lock WILL NOT FUNCTION CORRECTLY with 12.5 or less No Load volts. 12.4 won't cut it.
