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Back in December the passenger window stopped working(click sound, no roll,) a few days later I had a dead battery. Charged the battery and the window started working. Fast forward to the present, the window has seized up again and has been for a month. Last night the driver window seized up also. The battery volts are between 11.4-11.8 pre crank and then shoots up into the 13-14 range once started
I have personally never replaced the battery and there is no "date" sticker on it, but I am guessing it is time to replace due to being below 12V?
Also, I know these cars are "volt" sensitive. Do you think that could be the cause of both windows burning out near the same time?
Back in December the passenger window stopped working(click sound, no roll,) a few days later I had a dead battery. Charged the battery and the window started working. Fast forward to the present, the window has seized up again and has been for a month. Last night the driver window seized up also. The battery volts are between 11.4-11.8 pre crank and then shoots up into the 13-14 range once started
I have personally never replaced the battery and there is no "date" sticker on it, but I am guessing it is time to replace due to being below 12V?
Also, I know these cars are "volt" sensitive. Do you think that could be the cause of both windows burning out near the same time?
12 volts is the standard automotive battery in today’s vehicle and each of the battery has 6 cells with a voltage of 2.1. A fully charged car battery has 12.6 volts.
There is a very big difference when a car battery drops even a small amount of voltage. When a car drops, for instance, from 12.6 to 12.0, there will be 75% difference. Its power drops from 100% to 25%. At 12.4 volts, a car battery is 75% charged while at 12.2 volts its 50% charged.
Consider your car battery charged at 12.4 volts or higher and discharged at 12.39 volts or less.
Just wait for Bill C to jump in. He's the electrical guru.
Just hard to believe that the car will crank with low voltage, but refuse to allow the windows to operate...seems like it wouldn't require much power to push a window down
It worked last time, hopefully the battery change will fix the issue. I don't feel like digging off into the door panel to replace parts or hammer the motor.
Back in December the passenger window stopped working(click sound, no roll,) a few days later I had a dead battery. Charged the battery and the window started working. Fast forward to the present, the window has seized up again and has been for a month. Last night the driver window seized up also. The battery volts are between 11.4-11.8 pre crank and then shoots up into the 13-14 range once started
I have personally never replaced the battery and there is no "date" sticker on it, but I am guessing it is time to replace due to being below 12V?
Also, I know these cars are "volt" sensitive. Do you think that could be the cause of both windows burning out near the same time?
Sorry, but I don't think the battery will fix your windows. Please do post back if it does, it could help. I think your window motors are sticking and will also do that with a new battery. But, I'm on your side, I hope it does fix your problem. If you're reading your battery voltage off the display, measure it with a voltmeter across the terminals to verify, or take it to an auto parts store for a free load test.
Everything is computer controlled on these cars, even the windows are tied to the BCM. A low voltage will confuse the issue of peripherals but a modern fuel injected engine starts so easily it hides what in the old days would have been a slow crank. A quick charge will only be a temporary fix for a battery on it's last legs.
I had a battery going bad, it caused the tire pressure monitor to weird out, readings while stopped, etc, anything can happen. Get yourself a new battery and save yourself a few headaches
New battery & start using a trickle charger like a CTEK3300 IMO. When u get the new battery u might want to put in a battery mat for extra protection. Good luck!
All with H's, but of course with this set of codes, H and C's don't apply. They always throw H.
The door electronics in these cars are such a PITA. Outside of the battery it could be a myriad of issues. In the past, I did the accordion wiggle, cleaning and reconnecting. Maybe the fuses have blown somewhere along the way.
Oh well, will replace later and update with results.
Replaced it. Would you believe that the TPMS is working all of a sudden after not doing so for 1+ years? Alas, the windows are still stuck. I have checked the fuses, cleared the codes, slammed the door panel, slammed the door while holding the button, and I have used the hammer technique...still no luck. Guess is it time to dig into the panel....
I disagree with this totally. While the books claim this to be fact, the C5 Corvette has MANY electronic functions that will fail to operate correctly when the No Load voltage drops below 12.5 volts. Most noteably the column lock system but there are plenty of other "strange" electrical symptoms that happen on the C5 with less than 12.5. However the engine will start with as little as 12.2 volts No Load. Just that the electronics (what makes the C5 run) are not happy with voltage that low.
My battery tests at 12.9 volts even after 2 weeks of sitting without a battery tender. 12.5 is what i would consider marginal, 12.7 to 12.9 is far more the norm for fully charged batteries in good condition.
So this must be why my door latch fails occasionally and my shift lever gets locked in park. Clears up when I rev the engine. The battery shop insists the battery is ok? I measured it at 12.3 to 12.5 cold. With engine running it varies from 12.5 to 14.
Could this also affect the AC?
Unless your Vette is your Daily driver, you really need a proper Battery Charger for the down months. Good ones can properly condition the battery and get you many more years of use. First thing I did when I got my '04Z home back in 8/11 was check the Battery Fluid level, and I re-check it every 6 months. When I moved here to WA, I hit up Dennis and picked one of these. It plugs into my Cig Lighter and keeps the battery healthy. Use it on the Kids Ninja also.
This is getting irritating, now the driver side window is working fine, but the passenger is still stuck. I just don't get how the TPMS was down for a year and then all of sudden works again...