DTC Codeswrong on some lists we use
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 83
From: . New York
DTC Codeswrong on some lists we use
Just a public service announcement.
Some of the DTC code lists we often reference may have a few of the codes swapped. A short story (because there's always a story
).
So Im selling the car after eight happy years of OCD care keeping it as perfect as Im able. I had very infrequently (maybe once a month) been getting a TCS error only when backing the car out of the garage cold. If I shut it down and started it again...poof....no error (and TCS AH and ABS always worked in use). Didn't want the next owner to have an issue (and have to explain the life long quests you can get yourself into chasing intermittent errors) so I figured might as well address it so the car is "no issue".
Pull the code C1225
Great, look it up http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
Good to go, order the Hub with the wheel speed sensor, go over to a friends shop, swap out the hub, everything back together, all cleaned up. Glad that's done. Sit around finishing coffee and Bs'ing for an hour, "OK thanks Angel, speak to you soon . . ." Pull out of the garage . . .TCS lights up
Back inside, check the connection (its one plug, you couldn't screw it up if you wanted to) ? Check all the other (unrelated) connections, all good, clean, no dirt/corrosion ? Sigh. Alright Ill call Vette Doctors tomorrow and see if they can shed a little light on it.
Angel calls me back later that night, "Ya know, I checked the listing in my manual here, it says C1225 is LF wheel ?" Ok hold on, check a few listings on line, Hmmmm ? some say LF some say RF.
Oh well, I guess we changed the wrong side
In this instance its of little consequence, the hubs are not side specific, so I can take the perfectly good one I removed from the right front and swap out the bad sensor on the left front. So I guess the moral of the story is
CROSS REFERNCE YOUR DATA . . . .PRIOR . . .TO REPAIR
Happy Motoring
Some of the DTC code lists we often reference may have a few of the codes swapped. A short story (because there's always a story
).So Im selling the car after eight happy years of OCD care keeping it as perfect as Im able. I had very infrequently (maybe once a month) been getting a TCS error only when backing the car out of the garage cold. If I shut it down and started it again...poof....no error (and TCS AH and ABS always worked in use). Didn't want the next owner to have an issue (and have to explain the life long quests you can get yourself into chasing intermittent errors) so I figured might as well address it so the car is "no issue".
Pull the code C1225
Great, look it up http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
Good to go, order the Hub with the wheel speed sensor, go over to a friends shop, swap out the hub, everything back together, all cleaned up. Glad that's done. Sit around finishing coffee and Bs'ing for an hour, "OK thanks Angel, speak to you soon . . ." Pull out of the garage . . .TCS lights up
Back inside, check the connection (its one plug, you couldn't screw it up if you wanted to) ? Check all the other (unrelated) connections, all good, clean, no dirt/corrosion ? Sigh. Alright Ill call Vette Doctors tomorrow and see if they can shed a little light on it.
Angel calls me back later that night, "Ya know, I checked the listing in my manual here, it says C1225 is LF wheel ?" Ok hold on, check a few listings on line, Hmmmm ? some say LF some say RF.
Oh well, I guess we changed the wrong side
In this instance its of little consequence, the hubs are not side specific, so I can take the perfectly good one I removed from the right front and swap out the bad sensor on the left front. So I guess the moral of the story is
CROSS REFERNCE YOUR DATA . . . .PRIOR . . .TO REPAIR
Happy Motoring
Racer
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 458
Likes: 2
From: The Great Northwest
St. Jude Donor '13
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 83
From: . New York
Well I don't actually.
You know the way everything is loomed and secured under there. All the stuff I had to check is pretty securely protected and they all end in snap on connectors. I would guess it is possible a wire could go bad inside a loom with no evidence of rubbing outside. Or that one of the connectors could be bad but I looked at them pretty good (sprayed a little contact cleaner in them and put a little di-electric grease) and they look like they are in good shape. It was later in the day at a friends garage or I guess I could have taken a meter to each end of the wires (not an easy undertaking in the space you have at some points without cutting the ties to get the slack to get to each) but that wasn't done.
I guess we'll know when we swap out the other hub tomorrow. I will go over everything on the left side again as we were primarily looking at the right (due to the list stating RF) prior to actually taking the hub out.
Just remember Im posting so others can be aware that some of the codes on the commonly linked references some of us use may be misleading, not necessarily to illustrate my bulletproof diagnostic ability
You know the way everything is loomed and secured under there. All the stuff I had to check is pretty securely protected and they all end in snap on connectors. I would guess it is possible a wire could go bad inside a loom with no evidence of rubbing outside. Or that one of the connectors could be bad but I looked at them pretty good (sprayed a little contact cleaner in them and put a little di-electric grease) and they look like they are in good shape. It was later in the day at a friends garage or I guess I could have taken a meter to each end of the wires (not an easy undertaking in the space you have at some points without cutting the ties to get the slack to get to each) but that wasn't done.
I guess we'll know when we swap out the other hub tomorrow. I will go over everything on the left side again as we were primarily looking at the right (due to the list stating RF) prior to actually taking the hub out.
Just remember Im posting so others can be aware that some of the codes on the commonly linked references some of us use may be misleading, not necessarily to illustrate my bulletproof diagnostic ability
Last edited by Jistari; Aug 20, 2013 at 08:39 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 26
From: San Jose California
Shade tree diagnostics
Don't forget the Shade Tree diagnostic method. Simply swap the position of the two hubs. If the new code shows that the problem moved, then it's the hub. If the problem stayed, it's NOT a faulty hub. And you didn't have to buy anything in order to find out!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 83
From: . New York
Well I don't actually.
You know the way everything is loomed and secured under there. All the stuff I had to check is pretty securely protected and they all end in snap on connectors. I would guess it is possible a wire could go bad inside a loom with no evidence of rubbing outside. Or that one of the connectors could be bad but I looked at them pretty good (sprayed a little contact cleaner in them and put a little di-electric grease) and they look like they are in good shape. It was later in the day at a friends garage or I guess I could have taken a meter to each end of the wires (not an easy undertaking in the space you have at some points without cutting the ties to get the slack to get to each) but that wasn't done.
I guess we'll know when we swap out the other hub tomorrow. I will go over everything on the left side again as we were primarily looking at the right (due to the list stating RF) prior to actually taking the hub out.
Got it
Just remember Im posting so others can be aware that some of the codes on the commonly linked references some of us use may be misleading, not necessarily to illustrate my bulletproof diagnostic ability
You know the way everything is loomed and secured under there. All the stuff I had to check is pretty securely protected and they all end in snap on connectors. I would guess it is possible a wire could go bad inside a loom with no evidence of rubbing outside. Or that one of the connectors could be bad but I looked at them pretty good (sprayed a little contact cleaner in them and put a little di-electric grease) and they look like they are in good shape. It was later in the day at a friends garage or I guess I could have taken a meter to each end of the wires (not an easy undertaking in the space you have at some points without cutting the ties to get the slack to get to each) but that wasn't done.
I guess we'll know when we swap out the other hub tomorrow. I will go over everything on the left side again as we were primarily looking at the right (due to the list stating RF) prior to actually taking the hub out.
Got it
Just remember Im posting so others can be aware that some of the codes on the commonly linked references some of us use may be misleading, not necessarily to illustrate my bulletproof diagnostic ability
I'm simply suggesting that you pull apart the connector halves (Hub side and Car Harness side) and examine the pins for damage and/or corrosion. Could be a bad hub but they seldom go bad. Usually corrosion from water/salt etc that gets in the connector. Bill Curlee has some pictures of the pins that are tweaked a little but enough to cause codes. I'll try to find those. I hate to see people spending money (hubs are not cheap) when the part they are replacing is not the problem.
Have learned a lot from your posts 87
Now, Have a cup of tea and watch Tombstone again, and by the time your done Ill find what it was
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 83
From: . New York
Whatever, just thought Id post about the swapped references in the list.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,475
Likes: 10
From: Wake Forest NC
