He can't answer that; they haven't had a track on Oahu for years. smh

 

I have mine set at 1000, makes everything easier.

 

I agree - do a cam and you'll love it. I did the Vararam VR-B2, LG Street headers with cats, ported TB and MTI V3 cam all at once. Made 412whp on a Dynojet (no baseline... Ugh.), but honestly it's not about the numbers. Light that thing off and it's like a '60s big block rumbling and shaking the whole car at idle. Stomp on the gas and it's just gone. Back road passing in 3rd is like a missile launch, and 4th will pull strongly from any speed up to double the speed limit. Much faster and more enjoyable than stock. The sound, even on the stock Ti catback, is crazy awesome at WOT. Somewhere between NASCAR and '60s straight-pipe muscle. Everywhere I go, people ask what I've done to it because they heard it coming.

I probably need to have my tune touched up a bit, but I'm still letting the ECU learn while carbon builds up inside the headers and on the cats. Idle is at 1,000 now but I'd prefer 800 or 850 to quiet things down when I'm sitting at a traffic light or trying to sneak outta the 'hood at night. It surges a bit anywhere below 2,500 but I have no trouble driving on the street at any rpm. I'm still on the stock clutch so driveability is reasonably close to stock. Just a bit more gas from a stop, and then it's totally normal except that it prefers to be at a higher rpm range in each gear. So I spend more time in 5th now when I used to be in 6th. Lost a bit of low-rpm light throttle torque, but that's because it just wants me to stomp it and GO GO GO! The midrange with the cam is amazing. The car just rockets forward instead of waiting for the rpm's to rise enough to make power.

Again, some of the driveability stuff can probably be adjusted in the tune. Most of the noise is from the headers because they have thinner walls than the OEM manifolds and don't muffle the engine as much. I haven't figured out how to datalog these cars yet either. I bought this car to mod it, and it impresses me every day. I'll probably do a LSx intake manifold and heads next year just because I can. From a mpg standpoint, I never got better than 26 highway and usually averaged 25 when it was stock. Since having all this done, I can still hit 25 pure highway if I try, but it's usually closer to 22-23 because I have trouble keeping my foot out of the gas. No traction issues in the dry, but on not-totally-dry-yet pavement it'll break loose at 70mph with no warning. Did that one time on the highway while it was stock and woulda put me into a concrete wall if the stability control hadn't cut power.

 

Mmmmmm. I love the R33...my favorite Skyline. Drove plenty of them while living in Japan.

 

As Micah(MPH1972) said, I don't physically have a track on the island I live on. Hopefully early next year I will be shipping the car to another island to run. I will be happy if it traps in the mid 120's, but the DA out here is in the range of bad to sh*t. I think average is something like 3500'.

 

My car is currently running PRC Stage 2.5 5.3 heads, a FAST 102 intake, ported LS2 TB, Kooks headers and X, and an MS3 cam (237/242 .603"/.609"). The car needs a new front seal anyway and appears to have some sort of issue with the valvesprings and front O2s, so I was thinking about having a cam with more low-end and midrange stuffed in her while they're dealing with the front seal. I bought it this way and haven't gotten to experience the true capability of the current setup due to the mechanical issues (I bought it this way, the issues were not apparent until it was loaded to 6000rpm on the dyno and peaked at 358rwhp at 5200rpm)

 

Hence my question regarding the guys with big setups and street driveability. However, it seems I have the biggest cam in the thread, so the closest comparison would be 808EB03Z06's 233/239. I'm just trying to figure out where to go from here.

 

With those mods, you should be making another 100whp. Good luck getting it sorted! You'll love the car when it's running right.

That's how I wound up doing a cam swap too. I was just going to do the Vararam + headers + tune until I saw the threads on here about OEM LS6 valve spring failures and guys replacing timing chains. Once I decided to do aftermarket springs and the Katech C5-R timing chain, a cam swap was literally just another $400. I went ahead and did a high flow oil pump at the same time, plus a 160-degree t-stat, LS2 belt tensioner and new belts. I've got a new water pump sitting in my garage but I'm not in a hurry to install it since my commute to work is just 2.5 miles.

The point of all that was to have a nice healthy NA motor I can run as hard as I want without worrying about stuff breaking. Just need to add a catch can and I'm done.

 

Change the springs to something like a PAC .650 dual and put new lifters in it if you haven't already and it will be a new car. When my cam swap was done I left the stock lifters in it and I had to replace all of them not long after. Depending on al the little supporting mods like a UDP which I have you should be 480ish to the wheels and will absolutely love the car. Good luck.

 

Yeah, I dropped the car off at Loud Pedal Motorsports Friday morning and sent Pat G a cam build sheet with a rush order this afternoon. I plan to have whatever he recommends ground on EPS lobes, that way I can get the best possible results out of my combo. I figure since the front seal needs to come off anyway, there is no reason not to have a cam custom-ground for my exact setup. I'll look into the C5R timing chain too; my car has less than 20k on it, so hopefully I can put that on the back burner for now. How tough of an install is that at home in the garage?

 

Okay guys the Vararam just arrived today, so that will be the next project. I wanted to add a couple of things- My AC is struggling The cluster lights are very dim and cold air blows out on pass side and not so cold on DS. Going to try the fuse #27 trick on that one... But air flows out of every orifice in the car- defroster, floor, upper vents, etc... I have researched and it may be a faulty vaccum line. I think i will install the CAI then work on AC, its not that hot in Dallas right now (priorities). One more thing- I dont seem to have as many Mustangs, 350Z's and Z28's slowing down beside me anymore, like I did in the 94coupe. They seem to stay behind, or drive by minding their own business.

 

The lights on the ac control panel are known problem. The connections on the board go bad and need to be redone. Do a search and you will see where lots of people have fixed it themselves and there are sponsors who perform the repair. They can also change the lights inside to Leds. If this is the problem causing your lights to go dim, it will not effect the vent issues. At least I have never heard of that.