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So, the GF and I went on a little cruise to the Casino's last night and I believe that my LS6 is going out... Starting to slip a bit, engagement is a bit notchy, and I can smell it... you guy's know the smell.. So, the LS6 has served me well, have had it for almost 5 yrs now...
(Pre H/c/I)....
My dilemma... (choices) I have narrowed it down to the
LS7 kit, Mantic, Monster 1... Have to get this done before my Eureka Springs trip next month. B4 you guys start the "SEARCH" feedback... I have. I want your experience w these clutches. car is NOT a DD... I am only making 450/420ish to the wheels... HOWEVER, I will be building a 427 next year
So, the GF and I went on a little cruise to the Casino's last night and I believe that my LS6 is going out... Starting to slip a bit, engagement is a bit notchy, and I can smell it... you guy's know the smell.. So, the LS6 has served me well, have had it for almost 5 yrs now...
(Pre H/c/I)....
My dilemma... (choices) I have narrowed it down to the
LS7 kit, Mantic, Monster 1... Have to get this done before my Eureka Springs trip next month. B4 you guys start the "SEARCH" feedback... I have. I want your experience w these clutches. car is NOT a DD... I am only making 450/420ish to the wheels... HOWEVER, I will be building a 427 next year
So, lets hear it.... will be ordering this week.
Thanks
I have been running a Textralia 0Z700 in my car for 6+ years and 20k plus miles. (around 10k with the H/C LS6 and 10k with the 416 stroker).
I have at least 100 1/4 mile passes on this clutch also and it's still going strong. I installed it with a new stock slave cylinder that is hooked up to a Tick adjustable master cylinder. It does not feel anything like the stock clutch as the pedal pressure is somewhat heavier than the LS6 clutch it replaced, but nothing that I can't handle.
It doesn't chatter on engagement but does squeak a bit on engagement when the car is cold. Proper break-in with these six puck clutches is very important. They do make a full face disc for these that most say is a bit more forgiving for street driving. When this one finally wears out, I won't hesistate to buy another one. Hope this helps.
Jimbo
Mines not on your list but I have a McLeod RXT twin, planned for H&C and FI. Drives almost like stock, when you let the clutch out there's very little slip and the car wants to go. Haven't had it at the track yet and it only has about 4K miles on it but it does seem to take abuse well, I like it.
I put a Tick bleeder and a new stock slave on it too but when I checked it to bleed and swap the fluid last week, it was still clear.
Last edited by Millenium Z06; Sep 1, 2013 at 11:17 AM.
Nice Wes... come to the GTG tonight and I can drive your car... LOL.... PM me what you paid for those, if you don't mind. After crunching number there is not a whole lot of difference in pricing for each of the ones I mentioned. Clutch, flywheel, TOB,Pilot bearing,Slave, Master, ARP bolts for Flywheel, PP.... We are talking < $150 for the above mentioned kits...
Nice Wes... come to the GTG tonight and I can drive your car... LOL.... PM me what you paid for those, if you don't mind. After crunching number there is not a whole lot of difference in pricing for each of the ones I mentioned. Clutch, flywheel, TOB,Pilot bearing,Slave, Master, ARP bolts for Flywheel, PP.... We are talking < $150 for the above mentioned kits...
I paid $1200 for the clutch, flywheel and GM slave and $70ish for the Tick remote bleeder.
21st installed it at no charge since they were already doing the trans (replaced under GM warranty).
Thank you Jimbo... 23 views, 1 comment?? come on guys... what are you running?
Been running an RPS clutch for years. We run the BC2 but for your application, the half carbon street twin would be more appropriate. http://www.turboclutch.com/Pages/RPS%20ST%20Half.htm
Great to drive on the street. Holds a lot of power. Proven on the track.
IMO, I would never run a factory clutch (LS7) unless you were on a tight budget.
Why is that? Is it that bad of a clutch or is it just that the aftermarket clutches are that much better? I have heard the ls7 is 10 lbs heavier, that alone makes me not want to go with it. Im still on the original clutch at 40k, looking for a replacement down the road.
Why is that? Is it that bad of a clutch or is it just that the aftermarket clutches are that much better? I have heard the ls7 is 10 lbs heavier, that alone makes me not want to go with it. Im still on the original clutch at 40k, looking for a replacement down the road.
it's something like 17lbs heavier than a monster stage 1. also uses a self adjusting pressure plate which can be a cause of the sticky clutch syndrome. the monster stage 1 also uses carbon in the organic mix which makes it more resistant to fade and coming apart on slip launches
i considered an ls7 clutch but there's really nothing it has over the monster stage 1.
Why is that? Is it that bad of a clutch or is it just that the aftermarket clutches are that much better? I have heard the ls7 is 10 lbs heavier, that alone makes me not want to go with it. Im still on the original clutch at 40k, looking for a replacement down the road.
It's not bad, but if you have the money I think it's better to get a quality/beefy aftermarket piece, considering the amount of work that's required to change a clutch. If you're at close to stock power levels, and you're 100% sure you'll never mod, then LS7 is fine. But you don't want to put an LS7 in, then down the road you go S/C or nitrous, and then have to do a clutch job again because the LS7 can't hold the new power. Not to mention, I don't think they handle excessive clutch dumps as well as the aftermarket pieces.