if you have tried 10 clutches you are absolutely the perfect guy to answer a question that always comes up

on the ease of engagement feeling i'd assume the ls6 clutch would be #1, but, it also doesn't do well if you beat on it and the pedal can either go limp or firm depending on the mood its in

between the ls7, this new monster stage 2, the mantic, ram and centerforce what are the big differences?

also are you guys even going to offer a stage 1 anymore? doesn't seem like there is a place in the line up if the 2 actually drives better and has an easier engagement. what's the point of the 1?

 

Factory clutches will always win in ease of engagement. They're not trying to have a clutch built that will hold a ton of power, they're building them to be easy to use, smooth, have little to no NVH, and will hold minimal abuse over time with factory power levels. Now, this has changed a bit with the newer GM twins, even the failure known as the LS9. The SAC style pressure plate and generic organic frictions have everything to do with this.

For example - the new LT1 twin setup is great compared to the LS6/7 and LS9 setup. This is the reason we have a 6 bolt conversion for the C5/C6 setups that we're actually installing in a C6 as I type this. These twins will be successful because of the SAC style pressure plate. Twins wear at a more rapid rate then singles, this is a given. The issue is if there isn't anything to "take up" the wear the overall stack height changes and so does the plate load, bearing load, and overall abilities of the clutch. The new SAC setup in these twins are more robust and actually function quite well in initial testing here. That's much more than I can say for the LS6/7 SAC setups - don't even get me started on the LS9's failures due to the lack of overall stability from the lack of an outer shell, hence why the diaphragm spring rivets detach themselves when abused and the clutch comes a part (SAC-less, no pun intended). The LT1 unit has held great power for stock and we've already got discs that are dampened made up and will replace the rigid units that are utilized from the factory.

When you throw in the aftermarket you get guys who are trying to build packages to meet the standard needs for the consumers in a given market. This is why we all have numerous package options. Our 1 is a good OEM replacement piece the 2 is great for abuse. That's where the 1 fits and that's where we like to keep it. Steve, the owner, has discussed this very thing with us all in detail, funny you mention it.

 

Update on my Monster clutch install. After 5000 miles my clutch, it still chatters in first and reverse. The torque tube began making noises, so I'm looking to get new parts to rebuild it. While the mechanic had everything tore down we looked at the clutch and seen it was only hitting on 1 1/4" of the clutch plate (from the largest dia. in). So I am going back to a Centerforce dual friction clutch. It is the same clutch I had in the car for 170,xxx miles prior to the monster clutch. Needless to say, I will never buy nor recommend a Monster clutch.

 

I have approx 1,000 mile on mine and nothing has changed. Still chatters, probably always will. Makes driving the car difficult. When I pull mine apart again, I will remove the Monster also. For me the frustrating part was I did not flinch at the price, I just asked for, and my only request was; a clutch with a "smooth engagement". to handle the increased horsepower. I feel I was duped by a slick talking salesman.

 

It sounds like to me the pressure plate was improperly torqued down if it was wearing unevenly and that can cause chatter. It also sounds possible that the worn out 170k mile torque tube bearings could have been heightening the issue. Regardless feel free to contact me for a 2nd opinion if you'd like to see if we can help determine what's going on exactly.

I thought yours was doing better based on the post earlier in this thread saying it was getting better? If that's not the case and you are pulling it apart, be sure and contact us with pics so we can try to figure out what's going with yours as I know we've been over a few things already. We will get you taken care of, that's what our customer service is all about as you mentioned as well.

 

subscribed for the resolution. i am seriously contemplating using a monster clutch level 2 in the near future, so i am very curious as to what is causing these issues. when it comes to clutches there seems to be many choices, so many in fact, it's hard to make a decision on which brand and model to use.
i hope these problems get worked out to everyones satisfaction.

 

My mechanic was in touch with Monster clutch both during the install and after 500 miles because of the chattering issue and burnt clutch smell. Monster clutch continued to accuse my mechanic of not torqueing the bolts properly. They even suggested trying a tighter torque setting which my mechanic followed to the letter. Then they told me that the clutch just need a break-in period and that I should slip the clutch in 3rd or 4th gears to help with the break-in period. It was at this point that I realize that I would not get any other help from Monster clutch. It seemed that their clutch was not the problem, but everyone else was the problem.

 

Mine did improve slightly, but still chatters. I have no intention of puling the drive train apart until something fails requiring that to happen.

However, if Monster has a clutch that will provide smooth engagement and will support 600+ RWHP. I would propose the following: (speaking for myself, others can chime in on their feelings) I will remove my clutch and send it back to Monster for evaluation. Monster will provide a new clutch, which will perform as intended, with no need for modified driving techniques. I will pay any differential in cost. That would speak volumes about the "Customer Service" I previously referred to.

Either way I am fine. I can tolerate the chatter for now, but will change it out eventually. The cost of the clutch it's self is breakfast money in the big scheme of things.

RB

 

I'm confused on this, who did they talk to? Did they provide images and measurements?

What you're saying shouldn't/wouldn't be said by a tech support guy here - I'm referencing the increased torque sequence, lack of torque, etc. Having you finish the break in is one thing, but saying the torque is off doesn't make a lot of sense.

Give me a call and we'll go over your issue in detail.

That's more than fair and I spoke with the owner and he's more than willing to do just that. Give us a shout when it's out and we'll evaluate it and replace it with the latest/greatest at no additional charge (unless it's something to do with installation, which I highly doubt).

Thanks for the response and opportunity to make this right!

 

Will do, thank you for your help resolving my problem.

 

Have shudder on my stage 3 now after a few thousand miles. It actually starter out great. Then had some other issues like a bent input and hosed pilot. Changed all those parts and all was good for like 100 miles and then it is about the most god awful thing I have ever heard taking off on first and reverse. Will need to rip it apart soon to see what it actually looks like. But it is nice to know that monster is willing to go out of the way and help if need be.

Oh and just saw that LT1-S.. It says no chatter... might be an option...

 

my monster stage 1 makes a HORRIBLE rattle...never buying a Monster nor recommending one either...

 

Is this a fresh install?

LT1-S was the best for me. I tried the stage 1 twin, and hated it.

Good luck, clutch replacement on a C5 is not something you want to do twice.

 

Have you talked to any of my guys about this "Rattle"?

 

I've torn it down 4 times now trying to figure this out. I am now good at it with out wanting to.


pm sent

 

I replied to your PM - get me the information I've requested and we'll go from there.

Once I have your name/information I can go on our email server and see who was ignoring your emails like you stated. It's not common place here and I will address that.

 

Fyi to all!!! I just replaced the disc on my stage 3 as it was making a horrible noise/chatter. The guys at Monster let me know the disc was below recommended usable thickness. So I sent the old one in and they replaced it fairly cheap. Got the new one installed last weekend. And still had the issue.

I was so worked up I almost pushed the car off a cliff. I ripped it apart again this weekend and decided to replace the pilot. I almost replaced all clutch area crap (ie slave, flywheel, etc) however, I had a new pilot laying around so... Put it all back together and guess what? No noise! Drives awesome now!

While I am sure the pilot created the clutch chatter and premature wear the Monster guys were still cool and helpful about replacing the disc.

Just wanted to share my experience as it is not always what you think it is. Don't just jump to conclusions on these guys clutch. They have been doing this for a while now and obviously know what they are doing. Check everything first!!!
I learned the hard way. But now at least I can drop the driveline and reinstall in a day. Haha

 

That's awesome you have it fixed! It's crazy that such a small bearing can have such a huge effect on the clutch and driveline system. I wonder if the pilot bushing would be more durable than the bearing? Maybe the Monster Clutch guys can chime in.

 

Yeah I am stoked I figuered it out. However, actually this one that was hosed was a bushing. Ha. I already hosed a bearing. Replaced it with a bushing. Bent a input shaft. Got a new one but stupidly left the bushing. So I went back to a bearing. I have read that guys are still running bearings on high horse apps so figured the reason it screwed up before was because the input was bending. I was also solid shaft so no rubbers to take the deflection. I now have gone back to rubber idolaters

 

Oh! Well there's my answer! I think when I replace my clutch I'm gonna stick to the pilot bearing not bushing the hardest part is deciding which clutch to use, so many choices