All,
Planning on changing out the alternator, all belts, plugs, plug wires, fluids and hoses this winter.

Any suggestions on the best brand name parts listed above that you guys would put or have put
in your C5.

 

Are you changing out the alternator as a preventive measure? If you are, I would just have it checked to make sure it is working properly and keep it. I've been told by more than one mechanic and engineer that keeping the original alternator is best for the electrical system's health. The newer cars have significant amounts of computerization (including C5s) and a steady state is best for them. Start changing out components and weird things can start to happen.

They go on to say that the primary reason an alternator burns out is due to allowing the battery to get too old and beyond its useful time. As the battery ages, it doesn't hold the charge as well and causes the alternator to work harder. They recommend replacing the battery every few years even if it "seems" to be working fine.

To that end, if the alternator is fine, maybe consider just cleaning the connections or replacing the positive and ground wires in the charging system.

Food for thought....

 

Thanks for the information. I purchased the car last December 12 and bought a new jell red top battery. I tested the battery and the print out stated battery good, needs charge. I have been getting weird voltage readings and head lights dim when I put on the brakes or turn signals blink the head light dim. I am going to bench test the alternator to make sure it needs replacing. Ecklers has alternators that are very pricey, if I decide to change out the alternator, what would you recommend?

 

I can't help with a recommendation for alternators. Others will have to chime in.

The dimming lights is common so don't be alarmed. There are several threads regarding that. One of the recommendations is installing "the big 3" which is essentially duplicating the wiring between the alternator and battery so you have a redundant system. This just supports my comment that cleaning contacts and replacing the OEM wiring in the charging system is what may be needed. If the coating on the wires gets cracked or water somehow penetrates the coating, the stranded wire will oxidize and then resistance increases. The big 3 is just a quicker method of dealing with the problem.

This summer, I did a quick experiment by adding a ground wire from the block to the chassis and saw my voltages on the DIC stabilize. This winter, I'll likely be replacing the woven gounding straps on my car and possibly the charging system wires. My car has 214,000 miles so this doesn't surprise me at all. My only complaint is I didn't put all the miles on the car. Bought is with 168,000 miles a couple of years ago.

 

For the belts, I would go with Goodyear Gatorbacks. My choice for plugs would be AC Delco Iridiums and for the wires, GMPP red ones. The plugs and wires can be bought from Gene at GMPartsHouse.com.

I would stick with the Dex-Cool for the radiator. Chip at CCA sells some silicone hoses at a good price.

 

To answer your question, I can only parrot others. My skill level is low in the corvette area. However, I can quote two well respected brothers from Texas who win national awards restoring corvettes. They told me that if money is not the issue, buy GM parts. They don't work on C5's , only the old stuff.

I found a lot of good information about the alternator in a thread recently, about an alternator group buy. It seems a lot of replacement alternators are designed put out more power than the computer is looking for , and it makes it throw codes. I would assume out of spec voltages might also stress the computer. Of course, the voltages in normal driving are just fine, making it real easy to figure out when you get the intermittent codes from high rpm's.

As a matter of fact, the thread I mentioned prompted me to click this one. I now feel I need to learn , because replacing this part , should the time comes, might call for a better decision than just hitting the parts store.

I agree with the previous poster about taking care about replacing a bunch of electrical stuff in an old car. Circuits require balance, and as an internet shade tree mechanic, I just change one thing at a time. THen you have a logical starting place in case the plan fails.

I once had an old Jaguar, a great car with a great sound coming out of the straight six hemi. THose engines had a reputation for being tough to upgrade electrically , like in nobody did it.. Among other things, they would only run best on Champion plugs. Other brands, just ok. I put in my favorite brand, NGK, and turns out they were right. Weird.
That car had , stock, a black porcelain exhaust manifold, pretty engine.