Hi all!

Potential new (to me) '03 Z06 owner and I wanted to get some other peoples opinions on my deal. I have been looking for about 5 months so I am familiar with the local market but wanted to see what other people thought.

Here's the details of the car...

'03 Torch Red, Black interior - bone stock
29k miles
Clean carfax, 2 owners. Most recent owner is selling it to get a v6 Mustang Convertible that he and his wife can enjoy (much older guy). He only put 3k miles on it in 2 summers.

Paint is in excellant condition. Has the chrome "Corvette" outlined "stickers" that I will be removing (carefully!).

Car comes with cover, factory rims and replica Z06 chrome rims (for sale if anyone is interested!) as well as the original floor mats and some Lloyds Z06 floor mats with red trim (also for sale!).

Tires are Bridgestone Potenzas - factory sizes - put on this summer with about 1k miles on them. Battery was replaced this summer also.

DIC is showing historical codes as follows for both door control modules (right and left). I assume that these haven't occured since he replaced the battery, but would be interested to hear if other people see any issues with these.
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
B2262 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

The only negative is that the windshield has a small rock chip right next to the black in the lower drivers side (completely out of the sight line). Maybe the size of a nickel. He said he had it repaired, but it looks like not well (still visible but not spreading I guess). He has a small car club sticker over it that I didn't notice during my test drive until he pointed it out.

Owner was very genuine and a life long "car guy". Took this car to a bunch of shows with his buddies but otherwise didn't drive it. He did "admit" to taking it to 85 once to "see what she could do" haha. Told me he got great gas mileage so that was a plus haha. You are probably getting the picture of this guy...

It does fall within the "danger zone" for the potential '03 valve spring issue so I will be replacing those. Looks like parts + labor is going to be around $700. Additionally, he didn't do the column lock bypass which I likely will.

Guy was asking $25.5k. Ended up settling on $22k. Sounds like he found another car that he wants.

Anyone have any thoughts on the price and / or concern about any of the codes or other issues? Any help you guys can give me would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

First congrats!!

Very good buy it seems at 29K for 22K. In fact that is a very good deal.

Issues with the DIC codes on a 29K car would be concerning, but yes that could all have to do with the battery issue.

The main electrical issues on these cars are with the grounding straps and battery.

If the grounding straps are loose or get corroded, they will throw false codes (actually not false, since the sensors are not getting the juice they need). If the car was driven in the rain a lot, over salted roads, or kept outside, the grounding straps may get corroded.

 

Thanks for the info and opinion on the price.

I have done some research on the DIC codes and it looks like a low battery would throw those codes. They are all "H" now and I am getting identical ones from both doors so I am going to assume it is safe to say that they are from the battery being low at one point before he replaced it but I would be interested in what others think also.

 

The "U" Codes are very common and pop up from time to time.

The Door Control Modules do the same.
If those are the "B" Codes you posted, then they don't look to concerning, but clear them and see if they return.

 

Thanks - all of those popped up under both the LDCM and RDCM. Sounds like no problems. Appreciate the help.

 

The price is solid

$25.5 is almost dealer retail for half the mileage

$22k sounds about right, and the car sounds cherry

 

Owner was very genuine and a life long "car guy". Took this car to a bunch of shows with his buddies but otherwise didn't drive it. He did "admit" to taking it to 85 once to "see what she could do" haha. Told me he got great gas mileage so that was a plus haha. You are probably getting the picture of this guy...

Sounds like a great buy for a good price.
Whining about a rock chip in a 10 plus year old car is a little much.
Also, making fun of the "old guy" is a bit lame. You will be there one day.

 

Thanks for the help on the price.

Certainly didn't mean to make fun of the "old guy", I was just trying to show that it has been babied. Guy was really nice and I sure hope I do get there some day! Better than the alternative...

On my way to pick it up now!

 

Good luck with it. Welcome to the Z06 club.

 

Congratulations!!!

 

Hey, everybody!
I just joined this forum to research whether to buy a C5 Z06 or a C6 Z06.
I've heard many LS7 motors are "blowing up" for no reason, and that makes me REAL nervous!
I know the head driving instructor for my region's Porsche Club, and he says he personally saw an LS7 blow up at V.I.R. going down the back straight--it was a one-owner, 25K mile car that was being driven WITHIN its limts, and it just went up in flames! This friend says HE recommends getting the C5 Z06 because its turning out to be much more reliable than the C6 Z06, and the C5 makes a fabulous "driver's ed" non-competitive "track day" car.
Could I get some input and opinions from everybody here?

As a 33-year car collector, I have some helpful advice for the new buyer here that just got the Corvette from "the little old man from Pasadena" for $22K. This car has obviously been "overpampered", and needs some "vitamins and weight training" before you drive it much. This motor needs to be RUN and STRESSED and EXERCISED on a track somewhere to get it back into a healthy, high-performing state of tune.
Run a tankful or two of racing gas (Sunoco 260 GTX at 98 octane is available at every racetrack or at "hyperfuels.com") along with two bottles of Chevron Techron (one bottle per tankful) to get rid of any carbon build-up and/or sludge and/or any dirty or clogged fuel injection components. Start out running it easy, then gradually run it harder and harder just like you're breaking it in fresh from the factory.
Change the motor oil, brake fluid, gearbox oil, and rear differential lube before you do this, then change it all again AFTER you've take it out for a few track days, and it will be a healthier, happier car. You can actually feel it and hear it running better AFTER it's driven like it was made to be driven!
---K. Neal