Help please... 2001 C5
with 96,000 miles on it. I seems for the last year, things have been breaking. My dilemma, to trade in or fix. I hate car payments, but I don't want to dump a bunch of money into a car that keeps needing more and more work. Here's what is wrong with it now.
1. ABS/traction/engine check lite remain on (computer?)
( I can live with the warning lights being on)
2. head lights don't pop up with out several tries
3. Air conditioning/heater work fine. (replaced air conditioning
condenser/evap 7 years ago. It blows cold but just not very hard. (module?)
I did spend a bunch of money last year replacing rear seal, gaskets, and all oil leaks.
The car runs great. I don't expect a detailed reply with all of the possible diagnostics for the above, just reasoned opinions on whether the engine/transmission etc. should last a while
or should I just bail.
Routine maintenance has been performed through out life of car.
Thanks sooooo much.
A lot of more info is required to properly diagnose your issues but these are quite common issues. Your engine will most likely last at least another 100k miles. Do the fixes and keep it!
with 96,000 miles on it. I seems for the last year, things have been breaking. My dilemma, to trade in or fix. I hate car payments, but I don't want to dump a bunch of money into a car that keeps needing more and more work. Here's what is wrong with it now.
1. ABS/traction/engine check lite remain on (computer?)
( I can live with the warning lights being on)
2. head lights don't pop up with out several tries
3. Air conditioning/heater work fine. (replaced air conditioning
condenser/evap 7 years ago. It blows cold but just not very hard. (module?)
I did spend a bunch of money last year replacing rear seal, gaskets, and all oil leaks.
The car runs great. I don't expect a detailed reply with all of the possible diagnostics for the above, just reasoned opinions on whether the engine/transmission etc. should last a while
or should I just bail.
Routine maintenance has been performed through out life of car.
Thanks sooooo much.
2. Rodney Dickman has a gear set better than the stock plastic. $96 for the pair if I remember right. Got his kit when my headlights were not going up or down like they were supposed to.
3. Sounds like a blower motor. Haven't had that issue so I can't respond to that.
IMHO if the car is still running fine and you're happy these minor issues can be fixed at minimal cost. The dealership is definitely a deterrent unless you have some type of service plan. Of course durability does depend on your driving habits. If you're hard on it on a regular basis then yes...you will be doing more maintenance as with any car. Definitely agree with 8VETTE7 on checking the codes first. Just my .02
Last edited by MAJ_Charlie; Dec 10, 2013 at 04:39 PM.





I followed the directions in video. Here's what happened
codes
10-PCM = NO CODES
28-TCS = C1214 HC.... CI225 H
40-BCM = BO432 H...B2721 H...B2723 H
58-SDM = U1040 H
60-IPC = N/C
80-RADIO = N/C
99-HVAC = N/C
AO-LDCM = B2252 H.....U1064 H
A1-RDCM = B2283 H....B2285 H...U1064H
A6-SCM = B2172 H
BO-RFA = N/C
I reset all codes to 0. The only one that wouldn't clear was
28-TCS - C124 HC
Started car. Check engine light was off. ABS and Traction
warning light still ON.
zzzaaappp
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
OR
Include the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code.
There are dozens of possible causes for the Traction control message and light on the dash. Could be as simple as a wheel speed sensor that is acting up or as complex as the EBCM has failed and needs to be replaced or anything in between. Codes will tell what the issue is.
Headlight problem may be gear in the headlight motors as the previous posts states.
Fans not blowing is probably a resistor pack that controls the speeds of the fan. Easily replaced if that is the issue or if the AC is not cold enough then the system may need recharging as the previous post states.
I followed the directions in video. Here's what happened
codes
10-PCM = NO CODES
28-TCS = C1214 HC.... CI225 H
40-BCM = BO432 H...B2721 H...B2723 H
58-SDM = U1040 H
60-IPC = N/C
80-RADIO = N/C
99-HVAC = N/C
AO-LDCM = B2252 H.....U1064 H
A1-RDCM = B2283 H....B2285 H...U1064H
A6-SCM = B2172 H
BO-RFA = N/C
I reset all codes to 0. The only one that wouldn't clear was
28-TCS - C124 HC
Started car. Check engine light was off. ABS and Traction
warning light still ON.
zzzaaappp
Here's what each one means:
10-PCM = NO CODES
28-TCS = C1214 HC.... CI225 H (C1214 is Solenoid Valve Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open in the Electronic Brake Control Module. C1225 is excessive LF Wheel Speed Variation.)
40-BCM = BO432 H...B2721 H...B2723 H (B0432 is Rear Defogger Relay Circuit. B2721 is Pass Key Detection Circuit as is B2723. All fall under the Body Control Module)
58-SDM = U1040 H (I wasn't able to find a reference for this one.)
60-IPC = N/C
80-RADIO = N/C
99-HVAC = N/C
AO-LDCM = B2252 H.....U1064 H (B2252 is Key Cylinder Switch Fault in the Left Door Control Module. U1064 is Normal Software Function, History Status Upon Ignition Cycling. This one falls under All Modules.
A1-RDCM = B2283 H....B2285 H...U1064H (B2283 is 12V Power Feed #1 Fault and B2285 is 12V Power Feed #2 Fault in the Right Door Control Module.)
A6-SCM = B2172 H (B2172 is Seat Up Switch Shorted to GND) in the Sensing & Diagnostic Module.)
BO-RFA = N/C
The "H" or "HC" is HISTORY. Your ABS and TCS warnings are staying on because your ABS Module needs to be repaired or replaced. GM wants about $1200 for the part alone. Have it repaired with updated components ($150)...issue resolved. Had to have mine done back in April. No issues since. The car is still drivable without it, just annoying to have the warning lights. Six torx screws to remove the ABS Module. The two in the middle are tricky, but use an actual torx screw driver (T15 if I remember right) because one with attachments will be difficult getting into the space for the two screws in the middle. Here's the link for the place I used. Fast turn around. http://www.absfixer.com/
Last edited by MAJ_Charlie; Dec 11, 2013 at 11:45 AM.
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In simple terms, do any of the codes that you
identified, point to anything urgent that needs to be fixed?
I'm trying to decide to fix it up or sell. I would like to
keep it, if I can. I doubt if I even put 15,000 miles on it per year.
I will do the ABS fix.
10-PCM = NO CODES
28-TCS = C1214 HC.... CI225 H (C1214 is Solenoid Valve Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open in the Electronic Brake Control Module. C1225 is excessive LF Wheel Speed Variation.)
40-BCM = BO432 H...B2721 H...B2723 H (B0432 is Rear Defogger Relay Circuit. B2721 is Pass Key Detection Circuit as is B2723. All fall under the Body Control Module)
58-SDM = U1040 H (I wasn't able to find a reference for this one.)
60-IPC = N/C
80-RADIO = N/C
99-HVAC = N/C
AO-LDCM = B2252 H.....U1064 H (B2252 is Key Cylinder Switch Fault in the Left Door Control Module. U1064 is Normal Software Function, History Status Upon Ignition Cycling. This one falls under All Modules.
A1-RDCM = B2283 H....B2285 H...U1064H (B2283 is 12V Power Feed #1 Fault and B2285 is 12V Power Feed #2 Fault in the Right Door Control Module.)
A6-SCM = B2172 H (B2172 is Seat Up Switch Shorted to GND) in the Sensing & Diagnostic Module.)
BO-RFA = N/C
The "H" or "HC" is HISTORY. Your ABS and TCS warnings are staying on because your ABS Module needs to be repaired or replaced. GM wants about $1200 for the part alone. Have it repaired with updated components ($150)...issue resolved. Had to have mine done back in April. No issues since. The car is still drivable without it, just annoying to have the warning lights. Six torx screws to remove the ABS Module. The two in the middle are tricky, but use an actual torx screw driver (T15 if I remember right) because one with attachments will be difficult getting into the space for the two screws in the middle. Here's the link for the place I used. Fast turn around. http://www.absfixer.com/
Can you respond to the first part of my email concerning whether any of those other codes mean anything serious?

And, yes, that WAS a typo, I am Technically Challenged as well.
That being the case, the main relay in the EBCM is either cold soldered or bad.
As the previous post states that code CAN be repaired. Your first post says you are NOT a car guy so I'm thinking that you don't/can't do much mechanical work yourself???
The EBCM on a 2001 is mounted to the frame below the alternator. The EBCM can be removed and then sent off to any one of many shops that can rebuild/replace the main relay.
Find someone that can help you remove the EBCM and send it out. I suggest ABSFIXER for the repair. Here is a link to his site that contains info on EBCM removal, which EBCM's he can repair and his phone number:
http://www.absfixer.com/
I'd give him a call before you send it out.
add something to the forum that might help other people here.
If there are any guitar players out there, I will be happy to offer
advice on playing/equipment questions etc. My way of
"giving back"
Is there a special place that I should post something like that?
Or maybe one of Ya'll (that's Texas talk) could put the word out there.
A lot of more info is required to properly diagnose your issues but these are quite common issues. Your engine will most likely last at least another 100k miles. Do the fixes and keep it!













