A lot of guys have used the LS2/LQ9 blocks stock with F/I and have had great results -

However in the LONG run in would/will be necessary to go with Forged internals - As stated right above^^^^^^

If you can get your hands ons a LS2 that would be an excellent way to go, just have to make sure it has the LS1/6 reluctor wheel in it and you will be set (for the timing triggering)

I also would stay with the Aluminum block over the Iron Block for weight purposes, they are proven to work great for F/I -

"BUT" if the added weight does not bother you then you can go Iron block as it will handle upwards of 25+ PSI of Boost whereas the LS2 I would not go above 23 PSI of Boost!

Thanks,Matt

 

Mine is neither a Si, T or Ysi trim V2 its a really old SC trim. When i talked to A&A about upgrading my kit, keeping my blower and running it at 8psi, They didn't think the blower was even capable of 8psi!

 

.. which leads me to my next question.... what is the difference with forging an ls1 block as to forging bigger displacement such as an ls2 what are the main pros and cons? I ask this because I want to try and figure out the most cost effective way on building a bottom end for boost.


Matt, can you briefly explain the differences pros/cons of aluminum to iron block for boost? also would i benefit more with a forged bigger displacement rather than forging my current block?

 

As many have stated, it's not very difficult to get north of 600 with the basic bolt ons, cam and either the SI or t trim kit from A&A or a kit from ECS, it was recommended to me that adding the meth was more for safety than to add more power, although it did give me more power as well, heck I'm still running stock heads and stock bottom end,my kit was installed on a well maintained LS1 with less than 70,000 miles, I also upgraded a lot of my drive train components.
At the very least install a good clutch when you do most of the above, or shortly afterwards, I know that one day I will have to go to a forged motor, and I plan on doing just that when the time comes, my car us a street ride, I don't beat the crap out of it all the time although I do blow her out when the opportunity presents itself, I'm running Hancook 305-30-19 tires on the rear, and that's my weak link, sure they break loose pretty easy, but with that being said and me not drag racing my car, it's the weak link and saves me from stressing my drive train, I know that keeps me from getting the best acceleration out of my car, but I'm cool with that, I will be replacing the rear tires before summer and will probably go with a stickier tire when I do, ill just be more carefull about how I drive my car.
One thing I did that I have really like is I installed a shift light on my A piller next to my gauges, my car makes peak power around 6700 rpm, but still make well over 600 at 5900, I set my shift light for 5900 it is so much easier to keep your eyes on the road and letting the shift light give you an indication of where your motor is at, these motors spin up pretty darn quick, especially if you break the rear loose any at all, anyway that works for me and keeps me from beating on my motor too hard, the only reason I would spin it up any higher is if I was racing her, and them I just reset the light to what I need.
I got the shift light after I lost traction one time and ran it up and bounced off the limiter, when that happened I seperated my MAF (too much pressure) now I run one of the girdles from A&A the later model MAF will separate under the right conditions.
Don't forget about the fuel system as well, every car us different and you may end up having to beef it up more than just what comes with the kit. (I had to myself) but after doing so and adjusting the tune she picked up a few more ponies.
Good luck and have fun, nothing like a boosted C-5

 

thanks for this info, I drive my car pretty much how you drive yours, what numbers do you think I will produce on my ls1 block with 229/230 cam , ls6 intake,243 heads with dual springs, LT headears ORX pipe and exhaust?

I have seen very stock ls1s get over 600rwhp, I would imagine with my setup i can get over 600 safely?

 

It would be a guess, so much depends on your tuner doing his job, but your set up should get you there, I'm running a pretty darn safe tune myself and still made well over 600 at 10lbs of boost.

 

thanks for the advice!

 

Simply put; think of the motor as an air mover. The cam only allows the intake and exhaust valves to remain opened for a brief window in time, so to make power you need to get as much air as possible into and out of the cylinders as quickly as possible. FI gets the air in quicker. Larger displacement takes care of the "as much air as possible" part. Good headers and exhaust get the air out quicker. All things being equal, a larger displacement engine will move more air and make more power.
The biggest drawback of larger displacement, in general, is the weight of the rotating assembly. It eventually limits how fast you can spin the motor.
Again, this is an attempt at a very simple answer to his question, so experts please don't beat me up too bad.

 

I think it's a well explanation of how it works I get what your saying

 

Just saw your response - I gotta jam to work soon -

That is a loaded question and I will try to answer it the best I can and others can chime in -

But for starters the Cast Iron is usually much stronger than the Aluminum - Iron holds heat longer

But there are weight savings in the Aluminum as well as better heat displacement!

there are tons of threads on this comparison and it will take a little time to read some, here is a list:
https://www.google.com/#q=difference...aluminum+block

They both can and will make any amount of power you desire, but most go with the weight savings and durability of the Aluminum Blocks -

Cast Iron blocks can be punched out more than Aluminum ones too!

The list can go on - but I gotta jam!

Thanks,Matt

 

thanks for this response def gon check out that reading.