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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:18 PM
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Default C5 Z06 cooling issues

I have a 2004 C5 Z06 that I track quite a bit. Lately I was getting "transmission overheating" wornings so I installed a T1 Chevy factory transmission cooling system. No more transmission overheating now but the engine is running hot. Last time I was a the track it was hot, 100 degreesF and the engine was running around 240 degreesF. The little transmission radiator sits in front of the main radiator and prevents the air from getting to almost 1/3 of the radiator. Have you had this type of issue and how did you address it?
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by oviz06
I have a 2004 C5 Z06 that I track quite a bit. Lately I was getting "transmission overheating" wornings so I installed a T1 Chevy factory transmission cooling system. No more transmission overheating now but the engine is running hot. Last time I was a the track it was hot, 100 degreesF and the engine was running around 240 degreesF. The little transmission radiator sits in front of the main radiator and prevents the air from getting to almost 1/3 of the radiator. Have you had this type of issue and how did you address it?
I have an 03 Z06 that I track. I have the tranny and an oil cooler sitting up front. I don't know how much you use your car, but I took out my A/C. I took out everything, you can probably just take out the condenser and that will help a lot. I put in some Water Wetter too and this weekend it was 89 out and I never go over 217 on the water and 252 on oil. Now, I do have the DRM radiator for full disclosure, so that obviously helps also.
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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Easy fix, use a 160deg t-stat and have a tuner set the fans to that temperature.
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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You can try to clean out the radiator and AC condenser. These cars pick up a ton of crap.

Or I would suggest this setup.
http://dougrippie.com/products/ron-d...-and-line-kit/

160 degree stat and fan reprogram doesn't really do much on the track.

Randy
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 09:07 AM
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I track my 2004 Z06 and had a similar issue after I put in the oil cooler. I solved it by putting the radiator fans on a toggle switch under the dash, so when I'm at the track the fans are on 100% of the time. It's an easy fix if you know someone good with the electrics.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM

160 degree stat and fan reprogram doesn't really do much on the track.

Randy
I beg to differ there...lower t-stat temp means opening a lot earlier and constantly circulating the coolant and the fans will be constantly running and pulling hot air from the radiator...I don't see how that doesn't help, especially if you are auto-x and you are not able to get much air flow due to lower speeds.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 09:44 AM
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I have seen a thread on here by a forum vendor offering a switch that allows you to turn on the fans, it is on a wireless FOB item.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 12:00 PM
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Ok, I do agree with the 160 t-stat to give it a head start. And to keep it from bouncing back and forth.

The fan thing, well most race cars and such run small fans for pit stops and in the paddock. I guess it would be track dependent, low speed tracks, auto-x, sure crank that baby up. Most road racing tracks in the US are fast enough where a fan will slow down air flow.

240 to 200 degrees is a big jump. I wonder what the oil temps were like at that water temp

Randy
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
Ok, I do agree with the 160 t-stat to give it a head start. And to keep it from bouncing back and forth.

The fan thing, well most race cars and such run small fans for pit stops and in the paddock. I guess it would be track dependent, low speed tracks, auto-x, sure crank that baby up. Most road racing tracks in the US are fast enough where a fan will slow down air flow.

240 to 200 degrees is a big jump. I wonder what the oil temps were like at that water temp

Randy
I didn't look at the oil temp but I have a low temp thermostat and cleaning the radiator worked before I put the tranny cooler but now I have a debris screen. I just don't think the radiator gets enough air because of the little one sitting in front of it. I track the cqar at Laguna Seca, Sonoma and Thunderhill so we're talking 20 minutes of hard driving at a time. I'm thinking about changing the radiator with a DeWitt racing with double capacity. I still use the car on weekends so I don't want to take out the AC.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by oviz06
I didn't look at the oil temp but I have a low temp thermostat and cleaning the radiator worked before I put the tranny cooler but now I have a debris screen. I just don't think the radiator gets enough air because of the little one sitting in front of it. I track the cqar at Laguna Seca, Sonoma and Thunderhill so we're talking 20 minutes of hard driving at a time. I'm thinking about changing the radiator with a DeWitt racing with double capacity. I still use the car on weekends so I don't want to take out the AC.
DON"T Take out the AC. It's really not needed. Ron Davis and Dewitts both have the clips out front to mount the condenser. Between the two radiators you will find it like the Coke vs Pepsi. Both give positive results. We have been running the Ron Davis radiators for a really long time. I suggested the model with a EOC, because I'm 100 certain that your oil temps are 300ish, and it would be a good time to knock that down.

Being in that area you almost have to have a bigger radiator. Dry-hot and lots of 3rd gear.

Send me your email and I will get you some install instructions to help explain the system

Randy
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 05:27 PM
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I went to the Ron Davis radiator with integrated engine and trans oil coolers, haven't been back to the track yet to test it but I'm assuming my cooling issues will be over.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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I was tracking at WGI one year and temps were in the high 90's and hit a high of 102. Oil temps were 300-305, coolant 240ish. I put in a DeWitts combo radiator oil cooler and oil temps haven't gone over 285, coolant 220 ish.
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
Ok, I do agree with the 160 t-stat to give it a head start. And to keep it from bouncing back and forth.

The fan thing, well most race cars and such run small fans for pit stops and in the paddock. I guess it would be track dependent, low speed tracks, auto-x, sure crank that baby up. Most road racing tracks in the US are fast enough where a fan will slow down air flow.

240 to 200 degrees is a big jump. I wonder what the oil temps were like at that water temp

Randy
thank you for your help! You had me at 3rd gear. 😄 You have to know these tracks to know that. michael_chiorean@agilent.com
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by oviz06
thank you for your help! You had me at 3rd gear. 😄 You have to know these tracks to know that. michael_chiorean@agilent.com
Well I get around. 3rd gear corners and 4th gear straights. On street tires some of the slow corners you maybe down in 2nd at Sonoma depending on if you like to buzz the engine.

The elevation changes are hard on temps. That dry air doesn't cool at all, but is better for the driver.

Randy
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 2003Evo
Easy fix, use a 160deg t-stat and have a tuner set the fans to that temperature.
That would do nothing.


Originally Posted by 2003Evo
I beg to differ there...lower t-stat temp means opening a lot earlier and constantly circulating the coolant and the fans will be constantly running and pulling hot air from the radiator...I don't see how that doesn't help, especially if you are auto-x and you are not able to get much air flow due to lower speeds.

It doesn't help because if the coolant temp is at 240 degrees, the thermostat has been open and the fans have been on high since 230 degrees either way. If its going to climb above 230, its going to do it no matter what thermostat and fan setting you have.


Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
DON"T Take out the AC. It's really not needed. Ron Davis and Dewitts both have the clips out front to mount the condenser. Between the two radiators you will find it like the Coke vs Pepsi. Both give positive results. We have been running the Ron Davis radiators for a really long time. I suggested the model with a EOC, because I'm 100 certain that your oil temps are 300ish, and it would be a good time to knock that down.

Being in that area you almost have to have a bigger radiator. Dry-hot and lots of 3rd gear.

Send me your email and I will get you some install instructions to help explain the system

Randy
I had the same problem with overheated coolant and oil. Ron Davis with integrated oil cooler soundly solved both problems permanently. Excellent mod.
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 2003Evo
I beg to differ there...lower t-stat temp means opening a lot earlier and constantly circulating the coolant and the fans will be constantly running and pulling hot air from the radiator...I don't see how that doesn't help, especially if you are auto-x and you are not able to get much air flow due to lower speeds.
randy is correct, it has virtually no effect at the track as you're always going to be open, even with a stock stat

autocross maybe, as it could help keep you cooler during staging
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 12:49 AM
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95 degrees and dry up here in CO, my Z06 with stock radiator (clean), ~30% coolant/water wetter, and EOC would get the coolant around 235 just in HPDE for a 20 minute session. Oil around 275. Only way to lower it is to open the wallet for a radiator AND oil cooler. There's a guy running TT here in a C5Z with a Dewitts radiator and no oil cooler, his coolant runs in the 21X range and oil still passes 300 degrees. He ponies up for Amsoil, but that's just too damn hot for my liking. Thermostat would be a waste of time, it's good for racing where you might need the extra power for the first couple laps, but by the end of the session you'll end up right at the same temperature anyway. Like Randy said, all it does is give your coolant system a "head start".
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by oviz06
I have a 2004 C5 Z06 that I track quite a bit. Lately I was getting "transmission overheating" wornings so I installed a T1 Chevy factory transmission cooling system. No more transmission overheating now but the engine is running hot. Last time I was a the track it was hot, 100 degreesF and the engine was running around 240 degreesF. The little transmission radiator sits in front of the main radiator and prevents the air from getting to almost 1/3 of the radiator. Have you had this type of issue and how did you address it?
For my supercharged built tracked z06 i had major overheating problems. I made a lot of changes. The dewitts radiator, the big fans, i have both fans going on at 185, 100 percent water with the amsoil water wetter, and last but not least if you have not done it lately, the cheapest fix is free. Blow out your radiator. I got a FULL pint of dirt out of mine!!!!!
It still gets warm on the track....136 day before yesterday at willow springs but when you are putting out 650hp from a cooling system designed for 400....i just left it in 4th more instead of winding out 3rd to redline so much and the temps would plummet.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by oviz06
I have a 2004 C5 Z06 that I track quite a bit. Lately I was getting "transmission overheating" wornings so I installed a T1 Chevy factory transmission cooling system. No more transmission overheating now but the engine is running hot. Last time I was a the track it was hot, 100 degreesF and the engine was running around 240 degreesF. The little transmission radiator sits in front of the main radiator and prevents the air from getting to almost 1/3 of the radiator. Have you had this type of issue and how did you address it?
I forgot, the big electric water pump was my other cooling mod.
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