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Why is my clutch mushy after my vette has been idle for several days?
It will begin to engage right off the floor. After a mile, maybe a little more it will be back to normal. With the warmer weather it seems to get mushy after fewer days of rest.
The shifting is getting notchy(sp?)but manageable and I want to stay on top of this.
Why is my clutch mushy after my vette has been idle for several days?
It will begin to engage right off the floor. After a mile, maybe a little more it will be back to normal. With the warmer weather it seems to get mushy after fewer days of rest.
The shifting is getting notchy(sp?)but manageable and I want to stay on top of this.
Thanks for any ideas.
A few things to check:
Check your clutch fluid resevoir for the level and how dirty is it? You may need some fresh brake fluid in there. Maybe even a bleed or just the turkey baster method.
Also check your tranny fluid level.. Might be low or old too.
very solid advise from TWO5GPA would deft consider changing out the clutch fluid with fresh dot 4 brake fluid, how many miles are on your clutch what mods are done if any ?
Your slave cylinder is filled with clutch dust contaminating the fluid. and turns to cement when it sits, you have to work it to break up the contaminated clutch dust in the fluid. You can flush out the slave via the master using a 1/8th vacuum line on the end of a turkey baster to flush the black clutch dust from the slave after the master by inserting the 1/8 tube into the hole in the bottom of the reservoir and inserting it 6 inches down the line. Using clean fluid it will back out of the hole and be visible in the reservoir. the reservoir it self has to be cleaned and refilled several times with clean fluid until the flush from the slave comes out clean. ( this contamination remains in the slave, and just removing the fluid from the master will not help the slave, you have to use the turkey baster like it was a power washer. insert it down the line into the slave area and force the clutch dust to break up and flush itself back into the master. When you squeeze the turkey baster bulb you will see all this black crude floating back from the hole into the master. If everything is new, master and slave, you have air in the system, both master and slave should be factory primed.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Jun 5, 2014 at 02:04 AM.
My clutch engages sooner and smoother when car is cold and seems to feel right, but when warm engages later in the pedal travel and has more of a quick grab which I'm not sure is normal. Maybe its just me but I havnt driven other Vettes so cant compare. Anyone have thoughts on this?
I've done the turkey baster method and it got black again real quick.
How do I check he tranny fluid level; I apologize if it's obvious.
Fluids were supposedly changed 1000 miles ago but I doubt it now.
Assuming 68K. As far as I know it's original. Mods: vararam, long tunes with borla muffs.
ET, I will try this, unless you think it'd be better to just drain/refill(by a shop, not me).
Jack her up and remove the tranny fill plug. Fluid should be right there. If you have to stick your pinky in far to feel fluid then it's low. Add until it starts to pour out (you need a bottle pump) Go to YouTube and type in c5 tranny fluid change. Great videos from Froggy.