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DIC / HUD Led Conversion polarity documentation

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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 11:14 AM
  #21  
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Good information. Thanks for taking the time to document this for others that may want to make the conversion.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 03:48 PM
  #22  
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Jonathan from JWMotoring used to have a diagram showing which pins to attach test leads from a 9v battery. Whichever bulbs had the correct polarity would light up. THAT is easy. Some of the other ideas about a voltmeter were not helpful.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 04:06 PM
  #23  
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When I did LEDs on my 99 I found the plug and play LEDs were often too loose in the factory boards and could vibrate loose in use. So once I had them in the boards and tested I placed a drop of hot glue on one edge to stop them from shaking loose. Hot glue is easy to remove if needed in the future.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 06:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jrprich
When I did LEDs on my 99 I found the plug and play LEDs were often too loose in the factory boards and could vibrate loose in use. So once I had them in the boards and tested I placed a drop of hot glue on one edge to stop them from shaking loose. Hot glue is easy to remove if needed in the future.
Good idea, tho' I never had a looseness problem. The last ones I had were so tight I had to disassemble the old and new bases and put the led in the old base.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Pirateslife4me
Thanks guys, yes I've seen those links and much to my surprise with all the in depth info there is nothing showing polarity of the switch housing.

OK well here is the DIC & HUD switch housings marked for polarity.


Attachment 47817898



Attachment 47817897

As you can see the clearence is very tight between the bulb and the housing. In fact the stock bulbs on the HUD switch don't want to come out.


Attachment 47817899

And this is how they break trying to get them back out. No big deal if it's a stock bulb like this that doesn't want to come out but when it's your new LED and you didn't order a few extra and you break a bulb and need to wait a week to or your dash back together for a $2.50 bulb to come in the mail trust me it sucks. This is why it would be so much easier if we had a picture showing the polarity of the housing and why I felt the need to test and post the pictures. It's not as easy and some of y'all may think as just popping out a bulb and popping a new one in.


Attachment 47817902

This is not how you want your car sitting waiting for that single bulb or two.


Attachment 47817903
WTF! You have to pull the entire instrument cluster in order to replace the DIC bulbs and HUD bulbs?

I ordered the door switch bulbs. I wanted to replace the DIC and HUC control bulbs. But, dont know if I want to pull the dash apart.

I found these on EBAY, will these work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Blue-T4-...-/111462217772
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:36 PM
  #26  
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I'm about to tackle this job right now. I'm not looking forward to doing it as not only am I going to do the LEDs in the cluster (doors and console already done years ago) I'm also going to do trim rings around the gauges and install a MGW shifter. I guess I could take pictures and show progress. My biggest fear is getting the gauge cluster out so if anybody has some suggestions on how to do that, my ears are open.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by gpruitt54
WTF! You have to pull the entire instrument cluster in order to replace the DIC bulbs and HUD bulbs?

I ordered the door switch bulbs. I wanted to replace the DIC and HUC control bulbs. But, dont know if I want to pull the dash apart.

I found these on EBAY, will these work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Blue-T4-...-/111462217772
If I remember right, the HUD lights are a smaller size than the DIC lights. And yes, to do this mod you must pull out your gauge cluster. It takes some time, but well worth the effort in my opinion.

I used lights from this guy http://www.ebay.com/usr/vettelights?...p2047675.l2559 and all went well.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:41 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by knewblewkorvette
I'm about to tackle this job right now. I'm not looking forward to doing it as not only am I going to do the LEDs in the cluster (doors and console already done years ago) I'm also going to do trim rings around the gauges and install a MGW shifter. I guess I could take pictures and show progress. My biggest fear is getting the gauge cluster out so if anybody has some suggestions on how to do that, my ears are open.
I believe there are a few YouTube videos on how to remove the cluster. Have you watched any of them? They might help.

I want to do it this spring, but for now, I am only going as far as the door switches LEDs.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by knewblewkorvette
My biggest fear is getting the gauge cluster out so if anybody has some suggestions on how to do that, my ears are open.
I used the instructions (below) to get my gauge cluster out.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by AE Guy
If I remember right, the HUD lights are a smaller size than the DIC lights. And yes, to do this mod you must pull out your gauge cluster. It takes some time, but well worth the effort in my opinion.

I used lights from this guy http://www.ebay.com/usr/vettelights?...p2047675.l2559 and all went well.
I already purchased a kit with the LEDs for the door switch panels. The kit came with 6 bulbs totaling around 15 bucks.

Then I start reading that some times a bulb may break. I would like to have extra bulbs in case there is a breakage. I started looking at where the bulbs could be had from a non-Corvette parts retailer, for all the obvious reasons (aka, the Corvette Tax).

This site, and others sell these bulbs in clusters of 10. I may order them:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Blue-T4-...-/111462217772
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:59 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by AE Guy
I used the instructions (below) to get my gauge cluster out.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
What was the most difficult part of the project for you?

How difficult was it to get the cluster to clear the sheering wheel?
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 03:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by gpruitt54
What was the most difficult part of the project for you?

How difficult was it to get the cluster to clear the sheering wheel?
It's actually not that difficult (maybe a 3/5), just takes a while to get it done. If you can follow instructions, you can do this no problem. There is a plastic tail on the bottom of the gauge cluster that fits into a bracket, so after you unbolt everything, you're steering column will drop an inch or two, then be mindful that the tail is probably still hanging on and take it out gently.

After looking at the pictures in this thread, I can positively tell you that the HUD neo wedges are smaller than the DIC neo wedges. Make sure you have the right ones before pulling your gauge cluster out or you will be sorry. The DIC neo wedges are the same size as the door switch, traction control, trunk/hatch/foglight neo wedges.

I suppose you could take the LED w/resistor out of the neo wedge housing and swap it into the factory housing for the HUD light after you removed that bulb if necessary. But the guy I mentioned a few posts above had the lights labeled where they go with the correct sizes, no extras needed and the price was right.




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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 04:13 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by gpruitt54
WTF! You have to pull the entire instrument cluster in order to replace the DIC bulbs and HUD bulbs?

I ordered the door switch bulbs. I wanted to replace the DIC and HUC control bulbs. But, dont know if I want to pull the dash apart.

I found these on EBAY, will these work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Blue-T4-...-/111462217772
Pulling the dash and instrument cluster is a piece of cake. Afternoon job. No worries. If you have HUD and the bezel is beat, consider replacing that. Also, troubleshoot any HVAC vacuum issues you might have.

All in all, a 2 to 3 hour job.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 05:16 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by unlvrebel
Pulling the dash and instrument cluster is a piece of cake. Afternoon job. No worries. If you have HUD and the bezel is beat, consider replacing that. Also, troubleshoot any HVAC vacuum issues you might have.

All in all, a 2 to 3 hour job.
As soon as out Mid-West weather starts to become more spring-like, I have several projects for the car, including replacing the door module LEDs. I've already replaced the automatic shifter bulb with an LED (Looks fantastic).

Rather than buying a "Corvette marketed" T4 Neo Wedge HID/DIC LED kit, I think I will buy a hand full of these T4 Neo Wedge LEDs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Blue-T4-...-/111462217772
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 06:45 PM
  #35  
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Great write up and tips.

Question, is the main reason to swap to LED's to change the color?
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 06:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by danh52
Great write up and tips.

Question, is the main reason to swap to LED's to change the color?
My reason was to change the color, but there are other reasons. The LEDs are brighter, don't run as hot as incandescent bulbs, and last longer.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by danh52
Great write up and tips.

Question, is the main reason to swap to LED's to change the color?
My car is Navy Blue Metallic. For that reason, I changed the interior bulbs to blue LEDs. Yes, it looks amazingly cool. But, as already stated, they will last longer, run cooler, and draw less power. The heat of the stock bulbs is a real concern. When I changed the bulb in my automatic shifter assembly, it was clear that the stock bulb was doing damage to the plastic parts in the shift illumination components. Some components showed signs of melting. I discovered the same thing when examining the map light housing and foot well light housings as well. LED swap out is worth the effort. Now, I need to drum up the nerve to tackle the instrument cluster.
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Old Dec 16, 2019 | 02:28 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FX VETTE
I used the instructions (below) to get my gauge cluster out.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
for some reason the link is not working
Any body have the document for installing ?
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 12:32 AM
  #39  
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Thank you!!!
This was extremely helpful. I purchase a DIC/HUD LED kit from Corvette Mods and the LEDs were not labeled for polarity. With your pictures, I was able to test each LED for polarity AND place them in the correct orientation the FIRST time.

On another note, I removed the gauge cluster using the Corvette Mods instructions and it was rather difficult. In the same day I also repaired my HUD which had broken both hinge points. Thus I had to remove the dash. I would recommend anyone who wants to remove the gauge cluster: Find another reason to remove the dash. Remove the dash before removing the gauge cluster, it is MUCH easier in that order.
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Old May 11, 2021 | 08:38 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Pirateslife4me
Thanks guys, yes I've seen those links and much to my surprise with all the in depth info there is nothing showing polarity of the switch housing.

OK well here is the DIC & HUD switch housings marked for polarity.


Attachment 47817898



Attachment 47817897

As you can see the clearence is very tight between the bulb and the housing. In fact the stock bulbs on the HUD switch don't want to come out.


Attachment 47817899

And this is how they break trying to get them back out. No big deal if it's a stock bulb like this that doesn't want to come out but when it's your new LED and you didn't order a few extra and you break a bulb and need to wait a week to or your dash back together for a $2.50 bulb to come in the mail trust me it sucks. This is why it would be so much easier if we had a picture showing the polarity of the housing and why I felt the need to test and post the pictures. It's not as easy and some of y'all may think as just popping out a bulb and popping a new one in.


Attachment 47817902

This is not how you want your car sitting waiting for that single bulb or two.


Attachment 47817903
Very helpful...thank you for posting.

Indeed these bulbs can be difficult to remove, even if they are loose. I found that gravity helped somewhat which means basically working over your head.
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