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Jonathan from JWMotoring used to have a diagram showing which pins to attach test leads from a 9v battery. Whichever bulbs had the correct polarity would light up. THAT is easy. Some of the other ideas about a voltmeter were not helpful.
When I did LEDs on my 99 I found the plug and play LEDs were often too loose in the factory boards and could vibrate loose in use. So once I had them in the boards and tested I placed a drop of hot glue on one edge to stop them from shaking loose. Hot glue is easy to remove if needed in the future.
When I did LEDs on my 99 I found the plug and play LEDs were often too loose in the factory boards and could vibrate loose in use. So once I had them in the boards and tested I placed a drop of hot glue on one edge to stop them from shaking loose. Hot glue is easy to remove if needed in the future.
Good idea, tho' I never had a looseness problem. The last ones I had were so tight I had to disassemble the old and new bases and put the led in the old base.
And this is how they break trying to get them back out. No big deal if it's a stock bulb like this that doesn't want to come out but when it's your new LED and you didn't order a few extra and you break a bulb and need to wait a week to or your dash back together for a $2.50 bulb to come in the mail trust me it sucks. This is why it would be so much easier if we had a picture showing the polarity of the housing and why I felt the need to test and post the pictures. It's not as easy and some of y'all may think as just popping out a bulb and popping a new one in.
I'm about to tackle this job right now. I'm not looking forward to doing it as not only am I going to do the LEDs in the cluster (doors and console already done years ago) I'm also going to do trim rings around the gauges and install a MGW shifter. I guess I could take pictures and show progress. My biggest fear is getting the gauge cluster out so if anybody has some suggestions on how to do that, my ears are open.
If I remember right, the HUD lights are a smaller size than the DIC lights. And yes, to do this mod you must pull out your gauge cluster. It takes some time, but well worth the effort in my opinion.
I'm about to tackle this job right now. I'm not looking forward to doing it as not only am I going to do the LEDs in the cluster (doors and console already done years ago) I'm also going to do trim rings around the gauges and install a MGW shifter. I guess I could take pictures and show progress. My biggest fear is getting the gauge cluster out so if anybody has some suggestions on how to do that, my ears are open.
I believe there are a few YouTube videos on how to remove the cluster. Have you watched any of them? They might help.
I want to do it this spring, but for now, I am only going as far as the door switches LEDs.
If I remember right, the HUD lights are a smaller size than the DIC lights. And yes, to do this mod you must pull out your gauge cluster. It takes some time, but well worth the effort in my opinion.
I already purchased a kit with the LEDs for the door switch panels. The kit came with 6 bulbs totaling around 15 bucks.
Then I start reading that some times a bulb may break. I would like to have extra bulbs in case there is a breakage. I started looking at where the bulbs could be had from a non-Corvette parts retailer, for all the obvious reasons (aka, the Corvette Tax).
What was the most difficult part of the project for you?
How difficult was it to get the cluster to clear the sheering wheel?
It's actually not that difficult (maybe a 3/5), just takes a while to get it done. If you can follow instructions, you can do this no problem. There is a plastic tail on the bottom of the gauge cluster that fits into a bracket, so after you unbolt everything, you're steering column will drop an inch or two, then be mindful that the tail is probably still hanging on and take it out gently.
After looking at the pictures in this thread, I can positively tell you that the HUD neo wedges are smaller than the DIC neo wedges. Make sure you have the right ones before pulling your gauge cluster out or you will be sorry. The DIC neo wedges are the same size as the door switch, traction control, trunk/hatch/foglight neo wedges.
I suppose you could take the LED w/resistor out of the neo wedge housing and swap it into the factory housing for the HUD light after you removed that bulb if necessary. But the guy I mentioned a few posts above had the lights labeled where they go with the correct sizes, no extras needed and the price was right.
Pulling the dash and instrument cluster is a piece of cake. Afternoon job. No worries. If you have HUD and the bezel is beat, consider replacing that. Also, troubleshoot any HVAC vacuum issues you might have.
Pulling the dash and instrument cluster is a piece of cake. Afternoon job. No worries. If you have HUD and the bezel is beat, consider replacing that. Also, troubleshoot any HVAC vacuum issues you might have.
All in all, a 2 to 3 hour job.
As soon as out Mid-West weather starts to become more spring-like, I have several projects for the car, including replacing the door module LEDs. I've already replaced the automatic shifter bulb with an LED (Looks fantastic).
Rather than buying a "Corvette marketed" T4 Neo Wedge HID/DIC LED kit, I think I will buy a hand full of these T4 Neo Wedge LEDs.
Question, is the main reason to swap to LED's to change the color?
My car is Navy Blue Metallic. For that reason, I changed the interior bulbs to blue LEDs. Yes, it looks amazingly cool. But, as already stated, they will last longer, run cooler, and draw less power. The heat of the stock bulbs is a real concern. When I changed the bulb in my automatic shifter assembly, it was clear that the stock bulb was doing damage to the plastic parts in the shift illumination components. Some components showed signs of melting. I discovered the same thing when examining the map light housing and foot well light housings as well. LED swap out is worth the effort. Now, I need to drum up the nerve to tackle the instrument cluster.
Thank you!!!
This was extremely helpful. I purchase a DIC/HUD LED kit from Corvette Mods and the LEDs were not labeled for polarity. With your pictures, I was able to test each LED for polarity AND place them in the correct orientation the FIRST time.
On another note, I removed the gauge cluster using the Corvette Mods instructions and it was rather difficult. In the same day I also repaired my HUD which had broken both hinge points. Thus I had to remove the dash. I would recommend anyone who wants to remove the gauge cluster: Find another reason to remove the dash. Remove the dash before removing the gauge cluster, it is MUCH easier in that order.
And this is how they break trying to get them back out. No big deal if it's a stock bulb like this that doesn't want to come out but when it's your new LED and you didn't order a few extra and you break a bulb and need to wait a week to or your dash back together for a $2.50 bulb to come in the mail trust me it sucks. This is why it would be so much easier if we had a picture showing the polarity of the housing and why I felt the need to test and post the pictures. It's not as easy and some of y'all may think as just popping out a bulb and popping a new one in.
Indeed these bulbs can be difficult to remove, even if they are loose. I found that gravity helped somewhat which means basically working over your head.
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