Clutch woes :(
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 76
From: Portland OR
That's awesome, I'll be doing this all week. 
I drive nearly 40 miles each way to work, I figure if I pull/fill before I leave the house, then pull/fill before I leave work, I should have clean fluid in a week or 2 and will monitor it from then on.
I drive nearly 40 miles each way to work, I figure if I pull/fill before I leave the house, then pull/fill before I leave work, I should have clean fluid in a week or 2 and will monitor it from then on.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 4
I get more confused every time this subject comes up. I have the same issue with a slow or lazy clutch pedal. I never noticed it until I had cam and headers installed. I have tried to wrap the headers near the clutch lines and change the fluid often. I even notice it when I take a long ride, say over an hour driving on the interstate, which makes me think it is more from the heat of the headers. Someone even mentioned replacing the clutch with an aftermarket one to solve the problem, I don't see how that fixes anything if it is a hydraulic problem. I haven't found anything that works. My pedal never sticks, just a lazy or slow feel.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 190
Likes: 3
From: Springfield Ohio
I've been doing tons of reading on this lately. The general consensus that I've been running into is that the hydraulic clutch system for our cars was designed poorly. Cheap parts, cut corners.. that sort of thing. Hard to imagine... overall i think our car was an engineered very well for the time. not the interior though... stupid gm interiors. Anyway... I'm getting the impression this is very common.. lazy or slow pedal with no real, clear cut solution other than very routine maintenance and upgrading to better quality aftermarket parts. Personally its a non issue... its a corvette and i get to drive it every day and be happy. lol! One last thing as far as the lazy pedal goes, have you tried removing the pedal assist spring? takes like 5 seconds and is supposed to improve reaction time and lazy pedal. makes the clutch a bit heavier. The spring is there to assist you in pushing the pedal in. If you go to put it back in... hang the spring first, than attach it to the pedal. Installation is not immediately apparent. Just a friendly word to help save your back a bit.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 258
Lol the whole car is a cut corner. They had to be amazing in 1996 though. I was in like 6th or 7th grade then.
I use the turkey baster/mix miser method myself. It takes about 10 cycles to really get the deeper stuff out. It does help though.
It's best to use the method to maintain the fluid once it's clean. It's always going to have issues until you run a proper clutch setup and upgrade to the absolute latest slave. Between the super short throw and the self adjusting stock plates on a factory single disc; I think it's always going to be an issue. Plus the junk seals letting dust in... An aftermarket pressure plate and an adjustable master like a TICK at least seem to bandaid it well.
Such quality.
I use the turkey baster/mix miser method myself. It takes about 10 cycles to really get the deeper stuff out. It does help though.
It's best to use the method to maintain the fluid once it's clean. It's always going to have issues until you run a proper clutch setup and upgrade to the absolute latest slave. Between the super short throw and the self adjusting stock plates on a factory single disc; I think it's always going to be an issue. Plus the junk seals letting dust in... An aftermarket pressure plate and an adjustable master like a TICK at least seem to bandaid it well.
Such quality.
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
So... damn'est thing. My clutch pedal is sticking to the floor and the clutch is not disengaging . The problem became progressively worse of the course of a few days. Haven't had the car in the air yet but, I've changed out the fluid the best I was able using the turkey baster method. I also have a new master cylinder on the kitchen counter ready for replacement. I have a feeling I know where this is going. It will probably result in a clutch replacement. Just any thoughts on different clutches. What people like, what they don't like? This is my daily driver... well, during the summer months anyway or as often as possible. I don't really beat on my car to much and I don't have any hopes of making crazy uncontrollable horse power some day. Thanks in advance!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 4
I am not a mechanic. But I recently have the same problem with my car and had it fixed at the dealer. It seems that my master cylinder was fine but the slave was bad. Clutch plates were in good condition according to my mechanic. Just thought you might like to know this little piece of information.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
Definitely noted and thank you. I've been so busy I haven't had the time to really get into it yet. When I do I'll be sure to post the conclusion. Do you know is the slave cylinder job as intensive as a clutch replacement? Does the tt and trans have to come out? I thought they were pretty much the same job.
Depending on your mods if any will determine what clutch you need. I personally have a Mcleod RST and love it. Pedal is very close to stock feel and much easier to drive than the Ram clutches I had prior to this.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
Definitely noted and thank you. I've been so busy I haven't had the time to really get into it yet. When I do I'll be sure to post the conclusion. Do you know is the slave cylinder job as intensive as a clutch replacement? Does the tt and trans have to come out? I thought they were pretty much the same job.
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4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke VA
Its just sticking period now. It didn't start with high RPM shifts either. I literally just pulled into a gas station one day and when I went to leave the clutch only came of the floor a little ways. It grabbed immediately too. It took me a while to understand what was "different" about my car. Definitely looked like an *** stalling a few times. Over the next few days it became increasingly worse to the point now that you push the clutch in once and it does not disengage and the pedal sticks. No fluid near or around the master cylinder that I can see. Tried the turkey baster method. I was a little wary about this and I think I may have done it wrong.... I had to only do 2 or 3 cycles before I didn't see anymore goop. The system doesn't seem that complicated. Two cylinders and line with some springs.. I'm almost certain I"ll be opening it up and replacing slave and clutch. I just haven't had any time to really devote to it. Stupid expensive repairs. 
LOL
LOL
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,532
Likes: 79
From: pueblo co
i have taken 3 transmissions out of vette's now to have them built and it would be really hard to get the line for the remote bleeder via removing the intake and fishing it down there...if you got the line down there how would you tighten it so it would not leak?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,021
Likes: 133
From: Conejo Valley CA
I want to go to the Patches school of C5 repair!!
I just installed this Mantic 9000 triple disc - can hold 1000 HP. Pricey, though. 
