Clutch woes :(
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Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 4
Clutch woes :(
So... damn'est thing. My clutch pedal is sticking to the floor and the clutch is not disengaging . The problem became progressively worse of the course of a few days. Haven't had the car in the air yet but, I've changed out the fluid the best I was able using the turkey baster method. I also have a new master cylinder on the kitchen counter ready for replacement. I have a feeling I know where this is going. It will probably result in a clutch replacement. Just any thoughts on different clutches. What people like, what they don't like? This is my daily driver... well, during the summer months anyway or as often as possible. I don't really beat on my car to much and I don't have any hopes of making crazy uncontrollable horse power some day. Thanks in advance!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 9
Well, I've read some people putting a remote clutch bleeder in by removing the intake and coming in through the top, much easier than coming in from the bottom. It's not a clutch problem per se, it the hydraulics. I's try getting the fluid super clean wither with what you've been doing of adding a remote bleeder.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 4
Well, I've read some people putting a remote clutch bleeder in by removing the intake and coming in through the top, much easier than coming in from the bottom. It's not a clutch problem per se, it the hydraulics. I's try getting the fluid super clean wither with what you've been doing of adding a remote bleeder.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Remote bleeder line requires pulling the torque tube out. A couple of members here, using herculean methods and custom tools they built, have managed to get one in without pulling the tt but those were extreme measures. I just put my tt back in this weekend and added a remote bleeder since I already had it out but would not have added it otherwise.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 9
Remote bleeder line requires pulling the torque tube out. A couple of members here, using herculean methods and custom tools they built, have managed to get one in without pulling the tt but those were extreme measures. I just put my tt back in this weekend and added a remote bleeder since I already had it out but would not have added it otherwise.
Read this from someone that's done many remote bleeders:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...ur-clutch.html
From the above doc:
The easiest way that we have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold.
Last edited by 3boystoys; Sep 2, 2014 at 04:24 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,235
Likes: 399
From: Bmore Maryland
Clutch sticking to the floor is usually the first sign the clutch is going. The type of clutch depends on the power you are putting down or plan to put down. Mantic makes a nice clutch.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
I just installed this Mantic 9000 triple disc - can hold 1000 HP. Pricey, though. 
My tt/tranny/diff assembly out and ready for upgrade. I attached the remote bleeder to the slave before attaching it back to this assembly.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boise, ID
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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It looks like you eat off of that TT, Diff, or Trans without thinking twice.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
Good info in here about flushing clutch fluid without pulling TT.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 76
From: Portland OR
Good info in here about flushing clutch fluid without pulling TT.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
I helped a friend install a remote bleeder on his CTS-V when we did a Monster clutch. What a pain in the *** it was without it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,235
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From: Bmore Maryland
I do this every time my fluid starts to get cloudy. Works great.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
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It's true, Patches does detail the underside of his car.
That clutch is a thing of beauty
That clutch is a thing of beauty
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,725
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From: chicago area IL.
I have this problem now with my c5z and had this on a ls1 z28
my z28 started after I installed long tube headers, the heat from the Lt's boiling the clutch fluid and loose the clutch till it cools if you get on the car, driving it normal clutch is fine though
I'm replacing my trans and upgrading clutch, slave & master to solve the problem
my z28 started after I installed long tube headers, the heat from the Lt's boiling the clutch fluid and loose the clutch till it cools if you get on the car, driving it normal clutch is fine though
I'm replacing my trans and upgrading clutch, slave & master to solve the problem
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So... damn'est thing. My clutch pedal is sticking to the floor and the clutch is not disengaging . The problem became progressively worse of the course of a few days. Haven't had the car in the air yet but, I've changed out the fluid the best I was able using the turkey baster method. I also have a new master cylinder on the kitchen counter ready for replacement. I have a feeling I know where this is going. It will probably result in a clutch replacement. Just any thoughts on different clutches. What people like, what they don't like? This is my daily driver... well, during the summer months anyway or as often as possible. I don't really beat on my car to much and I don't have any hopes of making crazy uncontrollable horse power some day. Thanks in advance!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
is it sticking to the floor all the time or only during high rpm shifts?... if it's all the time you could have air in the system or a leaking clutch master/slave... you're on the right track, start with the master cylinder and do a proper clutch bleed (not the turkey baster method)... the master is the cheapest and easier part to replace... if that doesn't work I would invest in a new clutch and preferably an aftermarket unit that isn't designed like the factory one... I tried new and expensive fluid then a tick master and those didn't help, then replaced the clutch with a twin disc and no more problems... I think a lot of the problems lie within the factory pressure plate
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Start with the ranger fluid flush, it's easy and doesn't cost any more than a can of brake fluid. If the fluid is very dirty, it may take 20 or 30 cycles before you get results. If that doesn't work, go to more involved solutions. the problem is well documented as a poor hydraulic design that was corrected for the 2004 model. If you do need a clutch, the LS7 unit is usually on sale for cheaper that a C5 Z06 unit, and has an improved design also.
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Joined: Dec 2013
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That looks amazing!! Might be over kill for me though lmao!!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 4
is it sticking to the floor all the time or only during high rpm shifts?... if it's all the time you could have air in the system or a leaking clutch master/slave... you're on the right track, start with the master cylinder and do a proper clutch bleed (not the turkey baster method)... the master is the cheapest and easier part to replace... if that doesn't work I would invest in a new clutch and preferably an aftermarket unit that isn't designed like the factory one... I tried new and expensive fluid then a tick master and those didn't help, then replaced the clutch with a twin disc and no more problems... I think a lot of the problems lie within the factory pressure plate
LOL
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 190
Likes: 3
From: Springfield Ohio
I get more confused every time this subject comes up. I have the same issue with a slow or lazy clutch pedal. I never noticed it until I had cam and headers installed. I have tried to wrap the headers near the clutch lines and change the fluid often. I even notice it when I take a long ride, say over an hour driving on the interstate, which makes me think it is more from the heat of the headers. Someone even mentioned replacing the clutch with an aftermarket one to solve the problem, I don't see how that fixes anything if it is a hydraulic problem. I haven't found anything that works. My pedal never sticks, just a lazy or slow feel.
Last edited by Mickster144; Sep 3, 2014 at 11:31 AM.