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hey guys,
i hardly post on here mostly lurking for all the info i need, but this time i need you all's help ,,,,
i need to replace my clutch , mechanic says i need to also replaced slave and master cylinder so with that said which clutch should i go with ? i want a very soft clutch ,stock feel to it. car has all bolt ons with tunning and thats about it, also want to replace the shifter, it feels notchy and i hate it , looking for a good quality short throw shifter thats going to shift like butter, i never race the car or abuse it every once in a while i do some spirited drving but thats about it.... so please chime in on your opinions oh one more thing shocks need to be replaced any recomendations on that ? thanks in advance
I recommend the monster stage 2 single disc. It feels really nice but clutch pedal is a little heavier than stock. Engagement is really nice. Please check your stock flywheel for added weight and have your new clutch balanced the same if applicable. Will save you a lot of head ache.
if you want to drive like stock, mcleod rst with stock hydraulics. As for shifters I never had a short throw smoother than my stock shifter. You lose leverage with a short shifter which is what causes that notchy feeling. Your best bet would be a c6 shifter
I just had a Mantic ER2 installed and it is damn nice. Pedal is really light, especially coming from a LS7. I have about 140 miles on it and it already feels amazing.
The LS7 clutch is usually on sale for a good price. You can get either the stock flywheel or a lighter one in billet steel or aluminum. It's supposed to hold up to 600 HP, but is not recommended for drag racing. I was pricing clutches a while back, and the LS7 was a couple hundred dollars less than the monster, which was my second choice. I installed the C6 shifter and it was a big improvement over the stock C5.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
what clutch to get is subjective and depends on how much power you want to add in the future... that being said I strongly suggest to go with an aftermarket unit and stay away from an ls6 replacement... I, along with many others on this forum, had problems with my pedal sticking to the floor during high rpm shifts... I tried a tick master which helped a little but didn't completely cure the problem, then added a remote bleeder with new and expensive fluid to no avail... I was forced to change the clutch due to the power I was making and after that all is well and it finally shifts right... I suspect the ls6 pressure plate to be the root of all my problems... definitely replace the slave even if it appears to be in good shape and add a remote bleeder so you can easily flush out the system as needed
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Sep 8, 2014 at 10:51 AM.
thanks for the replies guys, well i wont be adding any more power to the car , and i like i say i dont drive it hard (rarely) thinking of going with an ls7 clutch or if theres anything better aftermarket for the same price that you guys can point me to , as far as shifter, i looked at the mgw short throw i know theyre no longer offering the c6 z06 shifter due to some rattle , so go with the c6 shifter? shorter shifts? better feel , performance?
I just got an LS7 clutch earlier this year and it drives as good if not easier than stock. I'm extremely happy with it. I have the MGW Short Shifter but it has a more agressive feel to it, not smooth and buttery. More race car if you ask me.
yup so i heard a bit notchy , im thinking of going with the c6 shifter , any mods to be done with the booth? i heard some vendors selling booths for c6 shifters on c5's but havent had found any yet.
You can easily modify the stock boot to work with the C6 shifter, by opening up the threads at the top of the boot to fit the larger C6 shaft, then zip tying the underside to hold it in place.
Threads opened and boot zip tied under shift ****.
Love my C6Z Shifter, its shorter and angled back for a better more natural shifting, plus the **** doesn't look like something out of a old Ford Ranger. I picked up a nice leather boot with yellow thread to match my car.
Just did the c6 shifter, LS7 clutch and Fidanza Lightweight (14lb) flywheel.. on my 2002 z06 with all bolt on mods (440rwhp).. The 2004 master cylinder was improved with a larger bore, went with that.. I did my research well in advance, looking for the best bang for the buck.. Gene Culley and Dickey Scoggins have the best prices on these parts.. The lightweight flywheel will let you rev faster (less power robbing rotating mass).. The LS7 flywheel and clutch is very heavy at 61 lbs...The stock ls6 clutch and flywhhel is 51 lbs.. LS7 clutch and 14lb flywheel will put you at 44-45 pounds of rotating mass.. The lightweight flywheel offsets the weight difference... I read over 100 posts on this subject.. I'm very happy with my decision.. Feels better than stock, revs quicker and much more responsive for sure,as well as gaining extra horsepower from unwanted rotating mass...
Just did the c6 shifter, LS7 clutch and Fidanza Lightweight (14lb) flywheel.. on my 2002 z06 with all bolt on mods (440rwhp).. The 2004 master cylinder was improved with a larger bore, went with that.. I did my research well in advance, looking for the best bang for the buck.. Gene Culley and Dickey Scoggins have the best prices on these parts.. The lightweight flywheel will let you rev faster (less power robbing rotating mass).. The LS7 flywheel and clutch is very heavy at 61 lbs...The stock ls6 clutch and flywhhel is 51 lbs.. LS7 clutch and 14lb flywheel will put you at 44-45 pounds of rotating mass.. The lightweight flywheel offsets the weight difference... I read over 100 posts on this subject.. I'm very happy with my decision.. Feels better than stock, revs quicker and much more responsive for sure,as well as gaining extra horsepower from unwanted rotating mass...
Throughout your research on the different clutch assemblies, did you come across anything that showed their respective moments of inertia? Everyone gets so caught up in weights of the assemblies only, but it is MOI that impacts freeing up HP needed to spin the assembly. Just curious. I see lots of info on total weights shared but almost never anything on MOI. MOI is what makes a difference. And yes, you can have a heavier clutch assembly with a LOWER MOI.
As almost all the single disc units are 12" units the MOI is pretty closely directly proportional to the weight.
I did try to research MOI and there is plenty of info about it conceptually, but I couldn't find any math, not that it matters.
There are only a few triples and its easy to figure out where they fit.
Lots of doubles that are much harder to figure out where they fit perfectly but they fall between the singles and the triples.
12" singles are straight forward. Lighter the better. If i can easily street drive my 9" 37lb dual that is reliefe cut all around the outside of the flywheel to reduce MOI. You wont be able to get moi low enough on a 12" single to make it undriveable while still holding stock torque, only way to to make it undriveable would be to make it too grabby. Mind you my car is harder to drive then it was stock. you have to give it a tiny bit of gas to get going from a stop and the enguagement is slightly quick. But its 100% driveable. I have driven it in 30 mins of stop and go numerous times, without any frustration outside the fact that i wasn't able to drive fast.
Throughout your research on the different clutch assemblies, did you come across anything that showed their respective moments of inertia? Everyone gets so caught up in weights of the assemblies only, but it is MOI that impacts freeing up HP needed to spin the assembly. Just curious. I see lots of info on total weights shared but almost never anything on MOI. MOI is what makes a difference. And yes, you can have a heavier clutch assembly with a LOWER MOI.
Soko is correct.. Im sure there is a mathmatical model out there, I never found it... I did not intend to hijack this thread or open a new can of worms.. There are so many threads and posts on this subject, that it will make your head spin I'm just giving my feedback to the OP.. Again its a subjective thing..
I did the C6 shifter and anti venom mod and I am really happy with the way the car shifts now.
I went with Mcleod RXT clutch. Very close to stock feel in my opinion.
Similar here... I put in MTI's Six Shooter shifter. It was heavy at first (maybe 20% more effort to change gears). Then I added one washer for the antivenom mod and that brought the effort back down to near stock C5 shifter level.
I ordered the Monster Level 1 Twin but it has not arrived yet.