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fuel line disconnect tool

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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 07:36 PM
  #1  
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Default fuel line disconnect tool

I've got a fuel filter for my 99 Vert ordered, and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the fuel line disconnect tool. I have been looking around (Ebay) and see a lot that say they are for Fords, and no Chevy's, but is that really the case? Anyway, just looking for some recommendations/suggestions from owners who have changed theirs. Already did the search. There are a number of them out there, but which ones do the job.
Thanks for the help!
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Anyone of these will work just fine:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...ool-97576.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-96834.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-38732.html

Thanks,Matt
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 08:47 PM
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You should be able to find one at any of the major auto parts stores too.
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 08:59 PM
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Thanks MadMatt and Vetteman. appreciate the assistance. I actually looked at the HF ones today, but without having the new filter to see, and not having looked underneath the car so see what the line looked like as far as space went, wasn't sure, and what better place to get some help, but the Corvette Forum. Once again.
Thanks again,
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Vetteman Jack
You should be able to find one at any of the major auto parts stores too.
They pretty much ALL carry these items as well as Sears, Wal-Mart, etc. Looking at Ebay or considering ordering online, etc is totally unnecessary.
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by madmatt9471
Anyone of these will work just fine:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-96834.html
Get the METAL ones ... I ruined the fitting on the fuel line (at the fuel rail end) with a Mickey Mouse plastic tool. New gas line was $80! Spend a few more bucks and get the ones that work.
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Get the METAL ones ... I ruined the fitting on the fuel line (at the fuel rail end) with a Mickey Mouse plastic tool. New gas line was $80! Spend a few more bucks and get the ones that work.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 07:17 AM
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If I remember correctly you don't need the tool. I think I just pushed in the tabs with my fingers since I couldn't get the tool up in there. I could be wrong since I own several cars that I work on. You will get drenched in gas though unless you wrap a shop rag around the filter to catch most of it.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 07:25 AM
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Definitely need the disconnect tools.. And the plastic ones actually work better for me than any others I've ever used on any vehicle.. And you can't even tell they are used after several uses. Just my experience though.

Useful tip. Do not start tugging on the line as you insert the disconnect tool. In fact, shove the lines onto the unit as much as possible while inserting the tool. This will free the latches easy. They won't budge if you are tugging on the line while trying to unlatch them.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 08:44 AM
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As others have said, I bought mine at a local parts house, It was priced something like 9.95 and it was a kit with all the main sizes.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Camjamsdad
If I remember correctly you don't need the tool. I think I just pushed in the tabs with my fingers since I couldn't get the tool up in there. I could be wrong since I own several cars that I work on. You will get drenched in gas though unless you wrap a shop rag around the filter to catch most of it.
From '99 to early '03, you MUST use the removal tool for one of the three attached fuel lines. The other two are squeeze-and-release type.

Courtesy of Chicago1:



Relieve the pressure at the fuel rail up front first, then have a drip pan ready with the shop rag you mentioned for the 1/2 cup (~) of fuel that will spill out.

HTH
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
Definitely need the disconnect tools.. And the plastic ones actually work better for me than any others I've ever used on any vehicle.. And you can't even tell they are used after several uses. Just my experience though.

Useful tip. Do not start tugging on the line as you insert the disconnect tool. In fact, shove the lines onto the unit as much as possible while inserting the tool. This will free the latches easy. They won't budge if you are tugging on the line while trying to unlatch them.
I prefer a good quality plastic (nylon actually) tool due to the natural "lubricity" of nylon. They slide a bit easier. I bought a set made by Lisle. They work great.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
From '99 to early '03, you MUST use the removal tool for one of the three attached fuel lines. The other two are squeeze-and-release type.

Courtesy of Chicago1:



Relieve the pressure at the fuel rail up front first, then have a drip pan ready with the shop rag you mentioned for the 1/2 cup (~) of fuel that will spill out.

HTH
The pic refreshed my memory. The line to the front needed the tool and the other 2 I depressed with my fingers cause I couldn't get the tool in there. My jeep I used a screwdriver. The tool is also a must have for the underhood fuel rail connection on most vehicles.

Autozone and Advance both carry a clearish plastic lock assortment in case you screw one up removing it. The ones on my jeep crumbled and had me worried once upon a time.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Camjamsdad
The pic refreshed my memory. The line to the front needed the tool and the other 2 I depressed with my fingers cause I couldn't get the tool in there..........
Wait, the two you depressed with your fingers are designed to be depressed with your fingers. They need no "tool".
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
Definitely need the disconnect tools.. And the plastic ones actually work better for me than any others
Useful tip. Do not start tugging on the line as you insert the disconnect tool. In fact, shove the lines onto the unit as much as possible while inserting the tool. This will free the latches easy. They won't budge if you are tugging on the line while trying to unlatch them.
Thanks for the tip. Maybe thats why the plastic ones always got buggered up, I was doing it wrong.
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 12:31 PM
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remember to relieve the fuel line pressure at the schraeder valve on the front off the drivers side fuel rail. it's like a tire valve, just hold a rag under it to soak up the gas and press the center with a screwdriver
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 07:44 PM
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I've used both plastic and metal, both work. I found the metal easier to use.
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