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Need to replace my DRL sockets and was planning on soldering the connections and using heat shrink. A mechanic friend told me it was a bad idea as solder connections tend to fail with vibration and he recommended crimping butt connectors and heat shrink. Not sure I buy this, I've always made solder connections on my boats which have a hell of a lot more vibration at 70mph than my car ever has. Comments?
I do both, I prefer soder and heat shrink but that's not always an option given location. Bottom line, when done right with heat shrink both types will outlast the components they connect.
Only a poorly sodered connection will vibrate loose. If you get it flowing well between both parts that connection isn't going anywhere. Cold soder joints however can easily fail.
Opinions will vary, but I say solder, with an inch or two piece of heat shrink tubing over it for a strain relief. Here is a video I made geared toward car stereo wiring, but works for most wiring.
I usually do not have a lot to contribute when it comes to technical stuff on the C5, but I can help in the electronics area. I am an electronics instructor and a Senior Certified Electronics Technician for 20+ years.
Opinions will vary, but I say solder, with an inch or two piece of heat shrink tubing over it for a strain relief. Here is a video I made geared toward car stereo wiring, but works for most wiring.
I usually do not have a lot to contribute when it comes to technical stuff on the C5, but I can help in the electronics area. I am an electronics instructor and a Senior Certified Electronics Technician for 20+ years.
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I use a neat little connector from the aviation department.
It's a piece of high temp heat shrink tube with a built-in solder ring.
My heat gun has a small adapter that concentrates the heat to both seal and solder the wires simultaneously.
But when conditions warrant, a crimp connector makes installation easy.
I usually do not have a lot to contribute when it comes to technical stuff on the C5, but I can help in the electronics area. I am an electronics instructor and a Senior Certified Electronics Technician for 20+ years.
Jim
Great video. Interesting. I have never "pre-tinned" my wires and then touched them together for soldering? I have always twisted the bare wires together, then fluxed, then soldered (i.e. I never really relied on the solder to be the mechanical connection). However, I am no expert.
Opinions will vary, but I say solder, with an inch or two piece of heat shrink tubing over it for a strain relief. Here is a video I made geared toward car stereo wiring, but works for most wiring.
I usually do not have a lot to contribute when it comes to technical stuff on the C5, but I can help in the electronics area. I am an electronics instructor and a Senior Certified Electronics Technician for 20+ years.
Jim
Hi Jim,
Nice video, nice technique, I would agree with you 100%. I was an electrical engineer, still am I guess but now I am in sales
I spent years in marine electronics repairing radar/sonar/ ssb /VHF, even AM Tube radios, and I would agree that is definitely the best way to splice stranded wire.
Opinions will vary, but I say solder, with an inch or two piece of heat shrink tubing over it for a strain relief. Here is a video I made geared toward car stereo wiring, but works for most wiring.
I usually do not have a lot to contribute when it comes to technical stuff on the C5, but I can help in the electronics area. I am an electronics instructor and a Senior Certified Electronics Technician for 20+ years.
Jim
so you're telling people not to do exactly what nasa does on the space shuttle?
i would think that after 20 years you would have watched at least a few tests on soldering failsafes
i mean i do what you do for things like car audio as well, but, that's simply because it's easy and heatshrink forms easy over a straight bond. doing a twisted nasa style wrap and using flux for a penetration catalyst is just by design a more reliable design
If I'm building something on a work bench to install somewhere else than I usually solder.
If I'm on my back awkwardly trying to find a hot wire under the dash, I crimp.
Solder is definitely the better way to go, I just don't have that much patience.
I don't really like butt splices, I think they're prone to failure. I steal "Dolphin" connectors from work. They're designed to splice telephone cables. Very fast, versatile, and reliable connectors, but I have never been able to find them at any hardware, electronics, or auto parts store :-(.
If I'm building something on a work bench to install somewhere else than I usually solder.
If I'm on my back awkwardly trying to find a hot wire under the dash, I crimp.
Solder is definitely the better way to go, I just don't have that much patience.
I don't really like butt splices, I think they're prone to failure. I steal "Dolphin" connectors from work. They're designed to splice telephone cables. Very fast, versatile, and reliable connectors, but I have never been able to find them at any hardware, electronics, or auto parts store :-(.
Haha I call those Pigeon Peckers, they are great little things for a quick splice. I prefer solder but those are good too. You can get them pre filled with gel for outdoor applications. I think the blue ones are gel filled and white are not.
If you dont have an account at ADI or Richardsons electronics, you can just go to Amazon, they will have them.
Opinions will vary, but I say solder, with an inch or two piece of heat shrink tubing over it for a strain relief. Here is a video I made geared toward car stereo wiring, but works for most wiring.
I usually do not have a lot to contribute when it comes to technical stuff on the C5, but I can help in the electronics area. I am an electronics instructor and a Senior Certified Electronics Technician for 20+ years.
Jim
Jim... this video is awesome... I wish I watched it 5 years ago!!! My installations going forward will benefit.
As for connecting wires together, I am a big fan of soldering. In fact, if I can't do the job myself, I specifically make sure the "professional" is soldering and not crimping.
I'm with all of you who solder....I too solder and heat shrink wrap all my wiring. I'm no electrical wiz but I do know a thing or two about keeping my wiring professional looking. Nothing makes me cringe more than seeing goobered up wiring and electrical tape.
I just twist 'em together and put electrical tape on them. Never had a single issue.
No doubt- thats been done thousands, maybe millions of times. We can twist, or wire nut, or crimp, or tape, or solder, or western union splice and solder- they all work. It is just a matter of what will last the longest. Many of these methods will last longer than we own the car, as well as the next owner. It is likely that some discontinued part, high milage, or accident will obsolete our vehicles long before our wired connections will fail. Use whichever method you like- Me personally, I will stick with soldering. It only takes a little longer.
Instead of tape I like using house grade electrical caps like grey, blue, orange, or yellow Marettes to hold the twisted wires together.
Fast, easy, and easy to redo if you want to do it differently.
Can tape over the Marette for a total seal.
Not recommended for stranded wires. We are not allowed to use those in commercial speaker installations. the twist on caps break the strands in the wire and can cause failure. They are designed for solid copper connections only.
We either solder, or use use crimp connectors.
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Do you solder or crimp? Why?
