Headlamp Bulb Replacement/Upgrade
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 487
Likes: 8
From: Carolina Beach NC
C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Headlamp Bulb Replacement/Upgrade
I want to install brighter headlamps in my '04 Convertible. I've found LED, Xenon, Halogen HID, and Halogen non-HID replacement lamps, some have ballasts or other conversion parts, and some claim to be just plug and play replacement bulbs. There are several different wattages and different ranges of K (what is the K range?)
I'm confused and would appreciate some guidance on the best simple solution for brighter lights that is easy to install and will work well with my car, and doesn't cost a fortune.
I'm confused and would appreciate some guidance on the best simple solution for brighter lights that is easy to install and will work well with my car, and doesn't cost a fortune.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 7,798
Likes: 2,256
From: Brighton MI
I want to install brighter headlamps in my '04 Convertible. I've found LED, Xenon, Halogen HID, and Halogen non-HID replacement lamps, some have ballasts or other conversion parts, and some claim to be just plug and play replacement bulbs. There are several different wattages and different ranges of K (what is the K range?)
I'm confused and would appreciate some guidance on the best simple solution for brighter lights that is easy to install and will work well with my car, and doesn't cost a fortune.
I'm confused and would appreciate some guidance on the best simple solution for brighter lights that is easy to install and will work well with my car, and doesn't cost a fortune.
Definitely an improvement that you will notice. However, I do not do much driving at night. If I did, I would be in on the radioflyer set up for sure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 8,900
Likes: 1,074
From: Wisconsin
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...332&cc=1368356
Try these for 20 bucks. They might just be good enough for you.
Try these for 20 bucks. They might just be good enough for you.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
If you are looking for a nice upgrade over stock without going full out HID projector lights, I can recommend what I did: PIAA Extreme White Plus headlights and Philips 893 CrystalVision driving lights.
Definitely an improvement that you will notice. However, I do not do much driving at night. If I did, I would be in on the radioflyer set up for sure.
Definitely an improvement that you will notice. However, I do not do much driving at night. If I did, I would be in on the radioflyer set up for sure.
It's not that hard to replace the existing bulbs with PIAA, Phillips, or Sylvania SilverStars, any of which will give you improved lighting without worrying about the OEM wiring being up to the task.I did the Radioflyer ACA/HID upgrade this summer and I am very pleased with the HUGE improvement in lighting. One thing I had found with the original lap housings was that the right side high beam socket was molded incorrectly and the high beam was pointed a full 5 FEET higher at 25 feet than the left side.
The Radioflyer kit comes with new ACA lamp housings and they are perfect in terms of left and right side alignment. The other thing that came in the kit was the "Hi-4" solenoid so that when I turn on the high beams, the low beams stay on. Now, because that particular solenoid can be found in kit form, I would highly recommend that if you aren't going with a HID conversion. Summit Racing has them from Painless Wiring.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 197
Likes: 6
From: Lindstrom MN
St. Jude Donor '15, '17
It's not that hard to replace the existing bulbs with PIAA, Phillips, or Sylvania SilverStars, any of which will give you improved lighting without worrying about the OEM wiring being up to the task.I did the Radioflyer ACA/HID upgrade this summer and I am very pleased with the HUGE improvement in lighting. One thing I had found with the original lap housings was that the right side high beam socket was molded incorrectly and the high beam was pointed a full 5 FEET higher at 25 feet than the left side.
The Radioflyer kit comes with new ACA lamp housings and they are perfect in terms of left and right side alignment. The other thing that came in the kit was the "Hi-4" solenoid so that when I turn on the high beams, the low beams stay on. Now, because that particular solenoid can be found in kit form, I would highly recommend that if you aren't going with a HID conversion. Summit Racing has them from Painless Wiring.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Lawndale NC
Has anyone tried sylvanias zxe line with our cars? I work pt for an auto parts store. We had a customer swap in a set in his silverado in the parking lot. It was a huge difference. At 60 dollars a pair its not super cheap, but it is more budget minded than the radioflyer or jm setups.
Last edited by xs-style; Jan 24, 2015 at 07:29 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
Sent from my DROID TURBO XT1254 using IB AutoGroup
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 17,731
Likes: 1,210
From: Aiken, SC
St. Jude Donor '13 thru '26
Obviously there are plenty of options depending on how much you want to spend. Change the bulbs, change the entire system...
There is a thread on putting high beam bulbs into the low beam lights. It requires a little trimming and I'm going to try this route first.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ms-suck-2.html
There is a thread on putting high beam bulbs into the low beam lights. It requires a little trimming and I'm going to try this route first.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ms-suck-2.html
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
I went with 9011/9012 HIR bulbs and a Hi-4 harness, which turns on all four bulbs when you switch on your hi beams. The HIR bulbs are brighter than Silverstars, and made a big improvement over the stock bulbs. If you do a lot of night driving, your best bet would be install either the Radioflyer projectors, or the European OEM headlights, which have glass lenses and a single 90/130 watt low/high bulb. Both of these options cost around $600. For the limited amount of night driving I do, the HIR bulbs are fine.
Hi-4 Harness:
http://shop.radioflyerinnovations.co...?categoryId=-1
9011/9012 HIR bulbs:
http://store.candlepower.com/hirlighting.html
Modifying 9011/9012 to fit for 9005/9006
Hi-4 Harness:
http://shop.radioflyerinnovations.co...?categoryId=-1
9011/9012 HIR bulbs:
http://store.candlepower.com/hirlighting.html
Modifying 9011/9012 to fit for 9005/9006
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
One thing to consider...the higher in "power" you go with a OEM style replacement the less hour usage you get out of it. Something to consider if you do a lot of night driving.
I'm not the author of this comparison, just found the info on the interweb.
Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen, BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam. Such bulbs produce significantly less light than even a standard bulb, so we'll start our comparison with standard bulbs.
Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all "Plus+50" H7 bulbs. Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both "Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can buy. But, Osram offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher output and longer life. Here is the comparison (figures at 13.2 volts):
Standard H7:
55w, 1500 lumens, 500 hours
H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand):
55w, 1580 lumens, 225 hours
H7 Xtreme "Plus+80" (Philips) or "Plus+90" (Osram):
55w, 1620 lumens, 200 hours
H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, obvious choice.
The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item.
Here is some more detailed info:
For reference, here's manufacturer data, from internal engineering databases, for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type you consider. Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.
H1 (regular normal): 1550 lumens, 650 hours
Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+") 1460 lumens, 1200 hours
Plus-30 High Efficacy (Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Candlepower Bright Light, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium): 1700 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar): 1750 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker): 1780 lumens, 340 hours
Blue coated 'extra white' (Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, which is just a rebrand of the Silverstar product, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc): 1380 lumens, 250 hours
I'm not the author of this comparison, just found the info on the interweb.
Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen, BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam. Such bulbs produce significantly less light than even a standard bulb, so we'll start our comparison with standard bulbs.
Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all "Plus+50" H7 bulbs. Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both "Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can buy. But, Osram offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher output and longer life. Here is the comparison (figures at 13.2 volts):
Standard H7:
55w, 1500 lumens, 500 hours
H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand):
55w, 1580 lumens, 225 hours
H7 Xtreme "Plus+80" (Philips) or "Plus+90" (Osram):
55w, 1620 lumens, 200 hours
H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, obvious choice.
The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item.
Here is some more detailed info:
For reference, here's manufacturer data, from internal engineering databases, for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type you consider. Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.
H1 (regular normal): 1550 lumens, 650 hours
Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+") 1460 lumens, 1200 hours
Plus-30 High Efficacy (Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Candlepower Bright Light, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium): 1700 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar): 1750 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker): 1780 lumens, 340 hours
Blue coated 'extra white' (Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, which is just a rebrand of the Silverstar product, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc): 1380 lumens, 250 hours
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 248
Likes: 11
From: Hollywood Florida
St. Jude Donor '15
I stuck some ZXE's in both the hi and low beams - pretty marked difference over stock. Nice bright and white - not as white as the LED's on my Jeep - but they will fit the bill for this car - closest thing
I've seen to HID's
I've seen to HID's
Has anyone tried sylvanias zxe line with our cars? I work pt for an auto parts store. We had a customer swap in a set in his silverado in the parking lot. It was a huge difference. At 60 dollars a pair its not super cheap, but it is more budget minded than the radioflyer or jm setups.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
One thing to consider...the higher in "power" you go with a OEM style replacement the less hour usage you get out of it. Something to consider if you do a lot of night driving.
I'm not the author of this comparison, just found the info on the interweb.
Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen, BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam. Such bulbs produce significantly less light than even a standard bulb, so we'll start our comparison with standard bulbs.
Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all "Plus+50" H7 bulbs. Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both "Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can buy. But, Osram offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher output and longer life. Here is the comparison (figures at 13.2 volts):
Standard H7:
55w, 1500 lumens, 500 hours
H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand):
55w, 1580 lumens, 225 hours
H7 Xtreme "Plus+80" (Philips) or "Plus+90" (Osram):
55w, 1620 lumens, 200 hours
H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, obvious choice.
The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item.
Here is some more detailed info:
For reference, here's manufacturer data, from internal engineering databases, for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type you consider. Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.
H1 (regular normal): 1550 lumens, 650 hours
Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+") 1460 lumens, 1200 hours
Plus-30 High Efficacy (Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Candlepower Bright Light, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium): 1700 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar): 1750 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker): 1780 lumens, 340 hours
Blue coated 'extra white' (Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, which is just a rebrand of the Silverstar product, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc): 1380 lumens, 250 hours
I'm not the author of this comparison, just found the info on the interweb.
Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen, BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam. Such bulbs produce significantly less light than even a standard bulb, so we'll start our comparison with standard bulbs.
Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all "Plus+50" H7 bulbs. Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both "Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can buy. But, Osram offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher output and longer life. Here is the comparison (figures at 13.2 volts):
Standard H7:
55w, 1500 lumens, 500 hours
H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand):
55w, 1580 lumens, 225 hours
H7 Xtreme "Plus+80" (Philips) or "Plus+90" (Osram):
55w, 1620 lumens, 200 hours
H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, obvious choice.
The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item.
Here is some more detailed info:
For reference, here's manufacturer data, from internal engineering databases, for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type you consider. Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.
H1 (regular normal): 1550 lumens, 650 hours
Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+") 1460 lumens, 1200 hours
Plus-30 High Efficacy (Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Candlepower Bright Light, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium): 1700 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar): 1750 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker): 1780 lumens, 340 hours
Blue coated 'extra white' (Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, which is just a rebrand of the Silverstar product, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc): 1380 lumens, 250 hours
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 248
Likes: 11
From: Hollywood Florida
St. Jude Donor '15
Isn't that an article written over 10 years ago in 2005?
Just saying.
Just saying.
One thing to consider...the higher in "power" you go with a OEM style replacement the less hour usage you get out of it. Something to consider if you do a lot of night driving.
I'm not the author of this comparison, just found the info on the interweb.
Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen, BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam. Such bulbs produce significantly less light than even a standard bulb, so we'll start our comparison with standard bulbs.
Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all "Plus+50" H7 bulbs. Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both "Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can buy. But, Osram offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher output and longer life. Here is the comparison (figures at 13.2 volts):
Standard H7:
55w, 1500 lumens, 500 hours
H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand):
55w, 1580 lumens, 225 hours
H7 Xtreme "Plus+80" (Philips) or "Plus+90" (Osram):
55w, 1620 lumens, 200 hours
H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, obvious choice.
The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item.
Here is some more detailed info:
For reference, here's manufacturer data, from internal engineering databases, for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type you consider. Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.
H1 (regular normal): 1550 lumens, 650 hours
Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+") 1460 lumens, 1200 hours
Plus-30 High Efficacy (Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Candlepower Bright Light, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium): 1700 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar): 1750 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker): 1780 lumens, 340 hours
Blue coated 'extra white' (Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, which is just a rebrand of the Silverstar product, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc): 1380 lumens, 250 hours
I'm not the author of this comparison, just found the info on the interweb.
Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen, BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam. Such bulbs produce significantly less light than even a standard bulb, so we'll start our comparison with standard bulbs.
Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all "Plus+50" H7 bulbs. Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both "Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can buy. But, Osram offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher output and longer life. Here is the comparison (figures at 13.2 volts):
Standard H7:
55w, 1500 lumens, 500 hours
H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand):
55w, 1580 lumens, 225 hours
H7 Xtreme "Plus+80" (Philips) or "Plus+90" (Osram):
55w, 1620 lumens, 200 hours
H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, obvious choice.
The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item.
Here is some more detailed info:
For reference, here's manufacturer data, from internal engineering databases, for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type you consider. Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.
H1 (regular normal): 1550 lumens, 650 hours
Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+") 1460 lumens, 1200 hours
Plus-30 High Efficacy (Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Candlepower Bright Light, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium): 1700 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar): 1750 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker): 1780 lumens, 340 hours
Blue coated 'extra white' (Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, which is just a rebrand of the Silverstar product, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc): 1380 lumens, 250 hours
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
I just installed the HIR 9011/9012 as well. Purchased the set from Candlepower. Easy to modify and install, much better light than stock. I did install the Hi4 relay as well, lows stay on when highs are on. Very easy to install, something like 70% more lumens then stock, and much longer life.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
I dunno if it was or not...I'm just pointing out what I have heard and read. If things have changed and they last longer then fine. I, for one, would not spend $60 for a pair of bulbs only to have to replace them every couple of years.
Instructor
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 139
Likes: 8
From: Denver Colorado
Does the Hi-4 relay work with stock bulbs? Upgrading bulbs and using the relay would be perfect for me if it functions. I don't see why it wouldn't but I'd love to be sure before ordering.
Last edited by JBird3; Jan 26, 2015 at 06:01 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
Yes it does. Basically, you tap into the engine compartment fuse box to add a relay that switches on the low beams when the high beam circuit is switched on. Very simple installation and no cutting of existing wires.
Edit: Here's a link for Radioflyer's Hi-4 harness. If you click on the picture in the link, there are installation instructions.
http://shop.radioflyerinnovations.co...?categoryId=-1
Edit: Here's a link for Radioflyer's Hi-4 harness. If you click on the picture in the link, there are installation instructions.
http://shop.radioflyerinnovations.co...?categoryId=-1
Last edited by john8642; Jan 27, 2015 at 12:16 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 858
Likes: 75
From: Medford, Oregon
It's not that hard to replace the existing bulbs with PIAA, Phillips, or Sylvania SilverStars, any of which will give you improved lighting without worrying about the OEM wiring being up to the task.I did the Radioflyer ACA/HID upgrade this summer and I am very pleased with the HUGE improvement in lighting. One thing I had found with the original lap housings was that the right side high beam socket was molded incorrectly and the high beam was pointed a full 5 FEET higher at 25 feet than the left side.
The Radioflyer kit comes with new ACA lamp housings and they are perfect in terms of left and right side alignment. The other thing that came in the kit was the "Hi-4" solenoid so that when I turn on the high beams, the low beams stay on. Now, because that particular solenoid can be found in kit form, I would highly recommend that if you aren't going with a HID conversion. Summit Racing has them from Painless Wiring.
In regards to your statement about the original lamp housing, both of my housings for high beams must share the same flaw. I posted a thread asking about this issue awhile back and only received reply's that I must have installed bulbs incorrectly, Not!. Upon using my high beams it illuminates lower branches of trees as if I'm looking for owls. So I am basically relegated to only using my low beams. Thanks for your comment on this issue, I thought I was going nuts and was the only one experiencing this issue.
