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All my TP sensors "died" at once, so I suspect the receiver. From what I can find, in my 2003 it's up over the LR wheel well, so I believe it's in this lump:
I cannot see how to get in there, however. Anybody know how to remove that panel?
JGeezer
2003 w/Corsa, Chip, Electronics implant
(plus an LS6 in my CTS-V)
... one step is missing from every post on the subject, how to remove the plastic cover. Get yourself a utility knife. It's the only tool you need. Behind the driver seat, there is a plastic trim piece on the underside of the upper deck. You will see a bulge about the size of a deck of cards, this is where the receiver is located. Pull out the carpet from around the speaker and the rear section. The plastic trim is held on with double stick tape.
Take your utility knife and gently cut the tape. I cut back about 16 inches. This will give you enough room to access the receiver. The receiver simply clips in. Reach up behind the receiver (the outside edge) and push in on the plastic clip. Then pull down. You can now easily pull out the receiver, unplug the wire connector and replace with your new receiver. You will need a bit of new double stick tape to get the plastic back in place.
Before you just start accessing the RFA so you can just look at it, answer 65GGverts questions and also pull your DIC codes from the dash, not an auto store scanner. If you need help on pulling the codes let us know. You are flying blind now.
If your remotes still work, there's very little chance the receiver is the problem. Maybe they lost comm with the receiver, did you try reprogramming?
One tidbit from the 2004 FSM:
"Loss of, or low system battery voltage will cause all of the sensor ID codes to be erased from the RCDLR's [receiver] memory and set all 4 sensor DTCs."
(I don't recall having to reprogram the TPMS sensors after replacing the battery, but so it goes.)
One tidbit from the 2004 FSM:
"Loss of, or low system battery voltage will cause all of the sensor ID codes to be erased from the RCDLR's [receiver] memory and set all 4 sensor DTCs."
(I don't recall having to reprogram the TPMS sensors after replacing the battery, but so it goes.)
....definitely not, but I do recall having to reprogram the key fobs.
Before you just start accessing the RFA so you can just look at it, answer 65GGverts questions and also pull your DIC codes from the dash, not an auto store scanner. If you need help on pulling the codes let us know. You are flying blind now.
OK, so I found about every freaking code I can imagine being related, but every one was flagged the historical "H".
Under B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation:
C2100 Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2105 Right Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2110 Right Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2115 Left Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
U1000 Loss of Communication Undetermined
Under sections other than RFA I found:
U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM
U1064 Loss of Communication with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communication with IPC
So what's the rule on the "H" flag? You can totally ignore these codes?
I did try something else, though - I have eight wheels for Precious, and I tried one from the other set. Grrr, got a beep. It may be that my sensors are just past their lifespan, I guess I should just bite the bullet and replace them.
History H codes are important and you should keep a record of them and see if they come back.
Remember most codes will go to H once you turn the ignition OFF.
Clear all of these codes and go for a drive to try and activate the tire sensors since they only work at speed and shut off if stopped for a few minutes. This is to save battery life in the sensors.
Then, pull your codes again BEFORE you turn the ignition OFF.
History H codes are important and you should keep a record of them and see if they come back.
Remember most codes will go to H once you turn the ignition OFF.
Clear all of these codes and go for a drive to try and activate the tire sensors since they only work at speed and shut off if stopped for a few minutes. This is to save battery life in the sensors.
Then, pull your codes again BEFORE you turn the ignition OFF.
Let us know what you get.
Connecticut is not in season for me Precious right now, off the ground in the shop for winter projects. I may have to wait for actual spring to sort this out!
Which control module are the Uxxxx codes listed under???? RFA??? IPC???? Are they all listed under the same module???? They can be listed under more than one module and it makes a difference.
Loss of communications means that the signaling that takes place over the serial data buss between sensors and controllers is experiencing problems. Several possible causes for this. Need more specifics about your codes and controllers that are reporting the codes to provide additional info.
These are all from the RFA...everything works...the TPMS and the Fob. But I have these 3 codes in the RFA. My system is original and has not been upgraded. I have cleared them but they always eventually come back.
Thanks!
Since the codes are limited to the RFA I suggest it has to do with wiring to that device. There is a ground through SP208 and G104 that may need to be serviced. See the following links about grounds:
If that doesn't resolve the issue then I would inspect the connector to the RFA. There have been previous threads on the Forum about breaks in the wires that go to the connector for the RFA. Intermittant electrical connectivity is the most likely cause of the codes you get.
Worst case, and that is highly unlikely, the RFA is bad. These devices seldom fail completely.
Essentially your RFA has bouts of not being able to communicate over the serial data buss and hence the codes.
Thank you...I will investigate and post what I find....
Im not getting tire pressure readings on my DIC display for my 2000 Vert. Only one of my key fobs are working properly. (Ordered a new one) My driver side door lock will NOT unlock, but will lock with my one key fob. The passenger door works fine both ways. Im confused on which way to go first. Any suggestions to get my two issues working again and what order to I start first? Thanks, Matt
Last edited by earlyseventy6; 03-03-2017 at 09:47 AM.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Originally Posted by earlyseventy6
Im not getting tire pressure readings on my DIC display for my 2000 Vert. Only one of my key fobs are working properly. (Ordered a new one) My driver side door lock will NOT unlock, but will lock with my one key fob. The passenger door works fine both ways. Im confused on which way to go first. Any suggestions to get my two issues working again and what order to I start first? Thanks, Matt
Like most issues, pull your codes and post them in a new thread.
I just received a "rebuilt" key fob from ebay and it will not program to the car. I tried a new battery as well. Emailed the guy i bought it from for exchange and will probably just buy a new one. I did pull the codes and only got 2, both were from the battery replacement B2284 and B2285. Will wait till i get new key fob to see if it will program to car. Thanks again.
OK, after trying again, the 2nd Keyfob finally programmed to the car, it took twice as long to match (30 secs) but it the DIC did say " second Fob programmed" after doing the first one again. Now, i went to hit the "unlock" button and nothing, lock button, nothing.( Still the first keyfob works fine) so i held the lock and unlock button at the same time and walked around car and the car beeped twice, great! unlocks and locks finally...till i walk away out of the garage, then the keyfob goes dead again, nothing. What is the cause? i can hold the lock and unlock button when i get back in garage and it takes ,but as soon as walk away more than 20 feet i lose it again..
03-09-2015, 06:11 PM
TPMS Receiver Access?
One tidbit from the 2004 FSM:
