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Replacing Lights with LED's

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Old May 14, 2015 | 08:45 PM
  #21  
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Might end up having to get that done myself... The loops are really small on my bulb... Got a brand new housing coming in though because I broke one of the plastic mountings like you successfully avoided lol Hopefully it will be easier to get it on with the housing outside of the car, and hopefully it's not too difficult to uninstall the old housing and install the new one...
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Old May 14, 2015 | 09:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by StealthStrike42
.... hopefully it's not too difficult to uninstall the old housing and install the new one...
Very easy to remove the housing...pull all the large plastic "rivets" that retain the hood heat shield (pry off with a wide flat blade screwdriver or preferably a trim pulling tool) on the right side, exposing the light housing mounting bracket (mine was pop riveted in) and follow the harness down and unplug.

Barry
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Old May 16, 2015 | 01:50 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dbarrym
Very easy to remove the housing...pull all the large plastic "rivets" that retain the hood heat shield (pry off with a wide flat blade screwdriver or preferably a trim pulling tool) on the right side, exposing the light housing mounting bracket (mine was pop riveted in) and follow the harness down and unplug.

Barry
Is there anyway to do it without removing the heat shield? I've heard it's not fun to get the heat shield back on and I really would prefer to do it without removing it in the first place =/
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Old May 18, 2015 | 06:17 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by StealthStrike42
Is there anyway to do it without removing the heat shield? I've heard it's not fun to get the heat shield back on and I really would prefer to do it without removing it in the first place =/
No, you only need to remove enough of the "rivets" on the passenger side to get access to the light housing and cable harness. No need to remove the entire heat shield. Literally takes just a minute or so, both removal and re-installation.

Barry
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Old May 18, 2015 | 10:03 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dbarrym
No, you only need to remove enough of the "rivets" on the passenger side to get access to the light housing and cable harness. No need to remove the entire heat shield. Literally takes just a minute or so, both removal and re-installation.

Barry
That doesn't sounds too bad. Do I need any special tools to get the heatshield back on?
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Old May 20, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #26  
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Nope - easily pried out and easier to push back in.

Barry
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Old May 20, 2015 | 11:30 PM
  #27  
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I'm often reminded of gas station rest room floors when I see people with their heads on the pedals.....

Originally Posted by StealthStrike42
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Old May 20, 2015 | 11:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dbarrym
Nope - easily pried out and easier to push back in.

Barry
Awesome, thanks man I'll probably be giving this a shot Friday night then! I'll post back here how it goes
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Old May 20, 2015 | 11:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
I'm often reminded of gas station rest room floors when I see people with their heads on the pedals.....
Lol I keep my feet and shoes clean, I'm sure the pedals are fine. And I've showered thoroughly since then
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Old May 29, 2015 | 08:15 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by dbarrym
Very easy to remove the housing...pull all the large plastic "rivets" that retain the hood heat shield (pry off with a wide flat blade screwdriver or preferably a trim pulling tool) on the right side, exposing the light housing mounting bracket (mine was pop riveted in) and follow the harness down and unplug.

Barry
You weren't ********ting me, it was easy to remove those pop-in "rivets" on the underhood heat shield. That came right off. The light housing itself, however, was really riveted into the hood. Pried it off with a flat blade screw driver and to get the new housing on I took some weather stripping adhesive, put it on the back of the light housing where it would attach to the hood, threw down some outside, double-sided hanging top on it, clamped it to a vice grip for a few minutes, then put some weather stripping adhesive on the back of the outside hanging tape and then adhered it to the hood. I also took the LED bulb back with me to the shop where I bought it, and the owner of the shop crimped the brass / copper tabs for me and then crimped the loops of the bulb on so that it doesn't come off.

Only remaining issue is the bulb isn't quite as bright as it should be, the guy who did the install for me suggested replacing the fuse that controls that light and that should fix that issue. Any one know what fuse it is?
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Old May 29, 2015 | 08:25 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by StealthStrike42
You weren't ********ting me, it was easy to remove those pop-in "rivets" on the underhood heat shield. That came right off. The light housing itself, however, was really riveted into the hood. Pried it off with a flat blade screw driver ......

Only remaining issue is the bulb isn't quite as bright as it should be, the guy who did the install for me suggested replacing the fuse that controls that light and that should fix that issue. Any one know what fuse it is?
Much easier to drill out the light housing rivets than prying it off, but as long as you're happy with the result, all is good!

Unless the fuse panel/fuse is corroded or dirty (causing a loss of voltage and/or current), changing the fuse won't affect the brightness of the LED's at all...assuming good clean contacts with fuse's legs, and the wiring harness is sound, a fuse will either melt (if too small) or pass current. It can't/wont have any effect on LED brightness!

If it's too dim, the light assembly is probably not enough wattage, or not enough LED's, for the application. Compare what you bought to the versions sold by the vendors here.

Barry
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Old May 30, 2015 | 03:00 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dbarrym
Much easier to drill out the light housing rivets than prying it off, but as long as you're happy with the result, all is good!

Unless the fuse panel/fuse is corroded or dirty (causing a loss of voltage and/or current), changing the fuse won't affect the brightness of the LED's at all...assuming good clean contacts with fuse's legs, and the wiring harness is sound, a fuse will either melt (if too small) or pass current. It can't/wont have any effect on LED brightness!

If it's too dim, the light assembly is probably not enough wattage, or not enough LED's, for the application. Compare what you bought to the versions sold by the vendors here.

Barry
Yeah it was really easy to pry it off anyways and didn't want to bother looking for a drill ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

The fuse was definitely blown! I replaced it and it did actually increase the brightness of the LED's when the key is on or the engine is started. If the car's not on, for whatever reason, the glovebox LED and underhood LED are really, really dim. Not a huge deal, but if any one knows of a fix for that, feel free to share!

Took a few before and after pics with my cell phone, here they are;

















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