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Dfferent Column Lock ?

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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 04:07 PM
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Default Dfferent Column Lock ?

I couldn't find this situation in the threads I have searched. On my 2002 MN6 coupe with 139,000 miles:

--Have SERVICE COLUMN LOCK message on every start, been happening for several months.

--Column does not lock.

--Fuel does not cutoff

--No apparently relevent codes (have several C/H TCS codes and one each RDCM and LDCM H codes, also have permanent seat belt warning light due to apparent failure to sense drivers seat belt is fastened).

--No known work or recall on this system since new.

I don't care that the column does not lock, I just don't want to get stuck if the fuel starts cutting off. My theory is that it is failed in the unlock mode and fuel only cuts off in the locked mode.

Any comments?
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wrmiles
I couldn't find this situation in the threads I have searched. On my 2002 MN6 coupe with 139,000 miles:

--Have SERVICE COLUMN LOCK message on every start, been happening for several months.

--Column does not lock.

--Fuel does not cutoff

--No apparently relevent codes (have several C/H TCS codes and one each RDCM and LDCM H codes, also have permanent seat belt warning light due to apparent failure to sense drivers seat belt is fastened).

--No known work or recall on this system since new.

I don't care that the column does not lock, I just don't want to get stuck if the fuel starts cutting off. My theory is that it is failed in the unlock mode and fuel only cuts off in the locked mode.

Any comments?


My car did it to me today, told me to pull the key and wait 10 seconds. So I did, restarted and still have the column lock message and is locked up but allows the motor to idle. Interested to see what gets posted on here. I do not have the lock either.
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 04:17 PM
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Can you turn the steering wheel freely with the ignition off. If so, some kind of work has been done to the car to disable the column lock from actually locking.
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 04:21 PM
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Vetteman Jack
Can you turn the steering wheel freely with the ignition off. If so, some kind of work has been done to the car to disable the column lock from actually locking.
Yes I can move the column freely. Could it not just be failure of the motor that locks the column?
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wrmiles
Yes I can move the column freely. Could it not just be failure of the motor that locks the column?
I did some reading on here and I guess that this problem is linked to the battery voltage being too low to unlock the motor. Before you start the car and the key is in the 'on' position there is a large draw with all the systems waiting before the ignition is hit and the motor turns over.

All my reading states that the problem could be cleared in your case if you charge the battery up and place it back in the car, which would reset the entire system.

Just ordered C5 LMC5 Module from Compliance Parts as well as the unlock kit since I'm locked up and cant unlock it. My understanding is that this fix is different in that its what the recalls did but a better 'cleaner' fix than the recalls.

I've read a few that stated that GM replaced the column lock motors, as a fix on some of the cars that had the recall fix but were still having the issue.

Sorry I'm not much help, I still don't fully understand how some cars are able to clear the problem by removing the battery and others are having fuel shutoffs even after 'resetting' the systems.
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 05:37 PM
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How old is your battery?
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wrmiles
I couldn't find this situation in the threads I have searched. On my 2002 MN6 coupe with 139,000 miles:

--Have SERVICE COLUMN LOCK message on every start, been happening for several months.

--Column does not lock.

--Fuel does not cutoff

--No apparently relevent codes (have several C/H TCS codes and one each RDCM and LDCM H codes, also have permanent seat belt warning light due to apparent failure to sense drivers seat belt is fastened).

--No known work or recall on this system since new.

I don't care that the column does not lock, I just don't want to get stuck if the fuel starts cutting off. My theory is that it is failed in the unlock mode and fuel only cuts off in the locked mode.

Any comments?
I would wonder KNOWING that the CLB is at some point going to be an issue, why wouldn't you have bought an LMC5 module for $40 and be done with it? Just curious?
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 07:46 PM
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Don't rely on electrical fixes in regards to this matter. Take it to the dealership or whomever and have the lock physically removed from the column. Peace of mind and much more safer while driving our cars, because they 'DO' lock up while driving, ask me !! Of course we all know how dependable electronics are !! Jus Say'n !!
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wrmiles
I couldn't find this situation in the threads I have searched. On my 2002 MN6 coupe with 139,000 miles:

--Have SERVICE COLUMN LOCK message on every start, been happening for several months.

--Column does not lock.

--Fuel does not cutoff

--No apparently relevent codes (have several C/H TCS codes and one each RDCM and LDCM H codes, also have permanent seat belt warning light due to apparent failure to sense drivers seat belt is fastened).

--No known work or recall on this system since new.

I don't care that the column does not lock, I just don't want to get stuck if the fuel starts cutting off. My theory is that it is failed in the unlock mode and fuel only cuts off in the locked mode.

Any comments?
The recall on MN6 cars did not really fix the issue. Instead, it was a "lawyer" fix because it merely activated the fuel cut off in a lock up, preventing the car from being driven.

I installed the Column Lock Bypass in both my 99 FRC and in my current 2001 Z06 before I had an issue. Consequently, I've had no column lock freezes or error messages whatsoever.

I notice the Bypass kits are on sale right now at RPI Designs. There also is the LMC-5 module from Compliance parts that is wired to the BCM that looks easier to install than the Bypass. I suggest obtaining one or the other as soon as possible to eliminate the problem.

Last edited by Mac-427; Apr 26, 2015 at 12:40 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 04:29 PM
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OP back here.

The battery is getting to be about 7 years old. I could not find my multimeter to check unloaded voltage so i jumped it from another running car. DIC voltage read 13.3 with engine not running. Seems like that should be enough.

Double checked codes with engine running and after shutoff. No BCM codes whatever (only codes are TCS c1265 HC and c1296 HC). This is the most puzzling part.

Sounds like I should order the LNC5 just to be on the safe side.

Any other input, especially about no codes?
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 04:56 PM
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I just got the warning message yesterday. It took me 10 minutes to get the steering unlocked so I could drive home. I was pretty mad and decided I wanted this resolved today.

I took the plastic off from under the dash and under the steering column. Super easy, and the locking pin was now visible.


Then I tried a variety of tools. Jigsaw couldn't reach, hacksaw didn't make much progress, Sawzall just vibrated the pin back into the housing instead of cutting it...


So it was time for the grinder. Here you can see it going in for the kill.


A few minutes later, sayonara biotch!


It only took 5 minutes to grind the pin off. I spent more time researching this on the forum than I did working on it. (Though I missed 8VETTE7's last comment about just unplugging it... Oops.)

My tune needs a touch-up anyway, so I'll call MTI on Monday and see if they can raise the fuel cutoff mph at the same time.

Last edited by Torque Obsessed; Apr 26, 2015 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by torque obsessed
i just got the warning message yesterday. It took me 10 minutes to get the steering unlocked so i could drive home. I was pretty mad and decided i wanted this resolved today.

I took the plastic off from under the dash and under the steering column. Super easy, and the locking pin was now visible.


It only took 5 minutes to grind the pin off. I spent more time researching this on the forum than i did working on it. (though i missed 8vette7's last comment about just unplugging it... Oops.)

my tune needs a touch-up anyway, so i'll call mti on monday and see if they can raise the fuel cutoff mph at the same time.
wow! OP i do not recommend this procedure.

Last edited by 73Corvette; Apr 26, 2015 at 05:32 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 05:28 PM
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My logic and sequence on jumping it:

Jumped it with car off and key out
Put key in
Got message
Cleared message and read 13.3 volts before starting

So, it seems to me that voltage is adequate and the car wouln't know any difference as to where the voltage is coming from?
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 05:34 PM
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Torque Obsessed I think you still need to pull the relay that controls the column lock motor to remove possible further issues with that... you may have another melt down and take a cutting torch to the relay and possibly melt something on the BCM...
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 73Corvette
Torque Obsessed I think you still need to pull the relay that controls the column lock motor to remove possible further issues with that... you may have another melt down and take a cutting torch to the relay and possibly melt something on the BCM...
Ha! Lol very true. Yes I went full redneck and it was glorious...

With the plastic back on nobody can see it, and now I don't have to worry about paying anyone for mechanical work if it locks up again. (Avoiding big $ for NVA work was my priority.) The car's driving great at the moment and I'll have my tuner increase the fuel cutoff soon.

I'm wondering if battery voltage caused mine too. I had only been doing short trips and it had been sitting for a few days... Hmm.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
In the passenger foot well is there any indication of moisture on the carpet. Pull out the toe kick and examine the BCM (Large silver can to the left of the fuse box) for any white oxidation stains. While you are there look up above the BCM and find the Column Lock Relay. It is the relay with 5 wires of the following colors: 2 orange, 1 white, 1 green and 1 purple. Once you have found that relay have a helper put the key in the ignition and turn it toward the start position but do NOT start the car. At the same time have your fingers on the relay and see it you feel the click of the relay when it activates. If you DO NOT feel the click then the cause of the message (still do NOT understand why no DTC) is that relay failing to activate. Either the BCM is failing or the relay is failed or there is insufficient voltage to operate the relay.

Post back your results............

The Column Lock Relay is well known for frying internally due to low battery voltage. Here is a pic of a fried CLR:

Wow. Really good information... Thanks for posting that. I'm going to check that too.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 09:25 PM
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That's the relay I was talking about... I have had a few melt downs myself .. lol I can relate

Ha! Lol very true. Yes I went full redneck and it was glorious...

One of my favorite statements on the forum I've read so far...
you might expect some feed back for your unconventional method for fixing your CL issue... I say, very creative.

I assume at this point you'll have NO problem cutting a hole in your wiper tray if you ever have to replace a bad OPS...

Last edited by 73Corvette; Apr 26, 2015 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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OP back here.

CF was right.

Replaced 7 year old battery, now the column lock works and no message.
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