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My 99 FRC wobbles. Not in first gear, but in 2nd. The body of the car wiggles from 40-70mph. The rear tires are 325mm wide. Is it the rears tramlining? Alignment? Suspension? Is it a shake, shimmy? I am not sure.
Check the sway bar end links. The early C5's did not have the metal end links. Most people change these out right away. I did on my 00 vert 6 speed and noticed a handling difference right away.
Last edited by Fast Cop; Jul 15, 2015 at 09:04 AM.
From: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
It could be a lot of things.
- Get a proper "road force balance"
Using road force balance any shop should be able to tell you if the wheels or the tires are the problem.
- Inspect the suspension
Check end links, upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints.
Most of the time the culprit is the wheels or tires. If your running 325, what wheel is it on? After market? Is it a new tire or used? Did you check the tire pressure? Is the issue only under acceleration or does it pulsate at a certain speed? All questions you need to answer.
- Get a proper "road force balance"
Using road force balance any shop should be able to tell you if the wheels or the tires are the problem.
- Inspect the suspension
Check end links, upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints.
Most of the time the culprit is the wheels or tires. If your running 325, what wheel is it on? After market? Is it a new tire or used? Did you check the tire pressure? Is the issue only under acceleration or does it pulsate at a certain speed? All questions you need to answer.
Michelin Pilot Super Sport 325/30R19 on C5z rims.
They have 6mm of thread and look fine. 3 years old.
30 psi cold 32 psi hot.
The bigger the tire foot print (contact patch), the more it will exacerbate any alignment issue's, or worn out bushings. As mentioned earlier, check the end links, and look for any loose fastening bolts on the cradle and other area's. A alignment shop is a good starting point to diagnose your problem while on the rack, Good luck in finding your problem !!
From: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
Originally Posted by TheProsecutor
325s
325 runflat on a 10.5 wheel could be your problem. That stiff of a side wall that stretched could mean its not seated properly. I would start by getting the tires road force balanced.
Check wheel and tire run out for both circumferential and lateral runout. You can do this right on the car. Jack it up, put a pointer next to the wheel rim, and slowly spin. You can repeat at the tire tread. I believe the runout spec is .030", which you can compare to a spark plug feeler gauge. If it looks good, next step is force balancer.
Would it matter if I told you I was getting 30-36mpg, all interstate driving to work every day? Can the car get that much gas mileage and have wheel balance problems? I will take to get force balanced, sound like the next step.
From: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
Originally Posted by TheProsecutor
Would it matter if I told you I was getting 30-36mpg, all interstate driving to work every day? Can the car get that much gas mileage and have wheel balance problems? I will take to get force balanced, sound like the next step.
MPG is normally not affected by suspension issues. Once you get the balance done drive the car and see if it's any better then plan from there. If you access to a friend that could swap rear wheels and compare that would have also been helpful. Once you eliminate tire and wheels you can look at suspension. These anomalies in the drive line are never easy to track