Does anyone have a how to: for recharging the freon on a c5 (1997)? The guy before me charged it and it's blew cold for two years until two weeks ago. It's still blowing air but it's straight hot now.

I'm sure it's pretty easy but a quick answer would be great. Oh and I was just going to do the do it yourself can from autozone with The Gauge on the can.

Thanks

 

The info will b in the instructions with the autozone purchase. I did my old truck. I installed an adaptor on the schrader valve that fits the freon can, shake the can really well, crank the vehicle and turn on air to highest setting, install hose on adaptor press and hold and watch gauge until it indicates charged. I can't remember which line I hooked it to, high or low pressure but the can instructions will tell U this. U should really try and find the leak for long term fix but in a pinch this will work, don't over charge the system. Good luck

 

AutoZone has what you need, it is not Freon it is r134-a. They will show you what you need. It will have a dial on it , turn it to the outside temperature. You will not need any adapter for the shrader valve. There is no need to shake it. Hook up to the low side and with the car running fill until the needle on the dial is in the green. It does sound like you have a slow leak somewhere that might need to be checked .

 

Go to a store and buy a can of AC pro. The instructions are on the internet but I will explain the procedures as I just did this, this past weekend.

Find the filler cap. It is located by the fire wall on the AC tube covered with a black cap, right beside the battery.

Start the car and turn the AC on. (don't turn it on max\circulate) turn it on outside air. Listen to make sure the compressor is cycling. Put the filler hose on the inlet valve. Turn the dial on the gauge to what the outside air temp is. There are two needles which will be in the green area of the gauge.

Check the pressure. If it is not in the green, squeeze the trigger on the canister for 10 seconds and then check the pressure on the gauge. repeat this until your gauge is showing 45 to 50 lbs of pressure, and holding.

Go for a ride with the AC turned on to the outside air position so that the freeon/ or whatever they call it now, cycles through to condition your o rings. Once you are satisfied you have cycled it enough turn it on circulate\max. If you don't have any other issues, you will be good.

The gauges on these are reusable so if you need to do it again later all you have to do is buy the refill canister.

If by chance your dial goes into the red when you first put the hose on, stop and take it in for service.

P.S. It cost me 40 bucks for the AC Pro with a better hose than the less expensive choices.

 

Get one with a dye cause you have a leak somewhere.

 

Get one with a dye cause you have a leak somewhere.



I have 2 non vette cars that are 10 (170K) and 12 (150K) years old and never had any A/C servicing. Both are Ice cold since they day they were bought. If the system is tight and no pump issues, you should not have to charge the system.

 

^^ agreed

Unless you have a leak, your air should be cold. Funny how they leave this out of the commercials.

 

I went through the same thing, and decided that the 18 year old compressor was never going to improve with age. So, I said enough, and spent $1200 at the dealer for a new one. I almost forget about the every time it is hot out though.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Where is the low port located? Is it near the battery? After I find that I know the process.


While I agree somewhat with what everyone is saying about fixing it the right way, I look at it that my car is a weekend car that 90% of the time the roof is off. I'm a young guy that doesn't mind a little wind but the 100 degree days in Philadelphia are no good with an all black interior. I'd rather spend $30 instead of $1200. I'd much rather put the extra cash into mods.

Thank you!

Thanks retiredsfc97. I missed your post but that the answer I was looking for.

 

Yes, lo port is between battery and engine

 

This! I always say this and usually get a "whatever" response from people.

R12 = Freon®
R134a = Suva®
R1234YF = Opteon®

 

You can't properly charge an R-134 system with a gauge. It needs to be evacuated, and recharged by weight.

You are also beating a dead horse. The system has a leak that needs to be repaired first. Given that it has leaked down, you also need to evacuate and replace the receiver/dehydrator. When you replace the receiver/dehydrator, you will need to add refrigerant oil with the proper number of ounces per the service manual. You can get a vacuum pump at Harbor Freight if you are doing this work yourself. You can get refrigerant oil at Napa Auto. There are several varieties, so be sure to get the type specified in the service manual.

Michael

 

Recharging a system may last 5 years, or it may last 2 hours. If it lasts 5 years you will save a ton of money on a car that is not driven that much. If it lasts just through each driving season you save a ton of money. The only time it is necessary to take your car to a shop to repair it is when the recharging doesn't work for the timeframe you are comfortable with.

It's a personal and economic choice.

I have had very good mechanics tell me more than once you are just as well off recharging the system until it just won't hold a charge than to spend a ton of money chasing a leak that sometimes will cost you up to 5K to find and repair.

I spent 3K rebuilding a system once only for it to last 1 year. Never again, unless I am forced to.

 

AutoZone actually has the vacuum pump and manifold gauges among other things in the Loan-A-Tool program. Definitely came in handy when I had to replace a line on my C5.

 

 

I have all the equipment, but good to know.

Michael