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I am in the process of installing my starter, obviously I don't want any problems. Is there a proper way the align the starter to the flex plate or is it just bolt up and go. I am using the 2 long bolts. It was very hard taking them off, so I tighned them the same way.
I am in the process of installing my starter, obviously I don't want any problems. Is there a proper way the align the starter to the flex plate or is it just bolt up and go. I am using the 2 long bolts. It was very hard taking them off, so I tighned them the same way.
Not sure about the C5, but other starters use shims to get proper angle on ring gear on flex plate. You better find out before you bolt it in.
According to this staement we do not have to shim on the LS1.
HI there,
First, the fact that the short/long bolt starter is any less reliable is garbage. There is not one documented test that there has ever been an issue.
Second, the starter is a simple one, use the one out of the trucks.
Fact is, unless there is actual internal engine binding, there is ONLY ONE THING that caused a broken snout on a starter. INCORRECT INSTALLATION OF STARTER!
People do not torque the fasteners correctly, or dont use the correct bolts or attempt to use shims where SHIMS SHOULD NEVER be used.
Why you would change the starter if its not giving you an issue????
Maybe if the engine is heavily modified with higher compression, I can see that.
Starter bolt torque is 37 ft lbs. If you over torque the fasteners, you will distort the snout. If you use the incorrect bolts, you will misalign the starter to the block and THEN you can damage the block.
12592294 is the starter for the 5.3 LM7 truck engine that will work with 2 equal length bolts.
But as I said in the beginning, only MISINSTALLATION or internal engine binding can create this type of failure.
If there were no shims on the stock starter, why would I put them on then, just saying. Everything should be bolt up and go. Remanufactured just use newer guts but keep the current casting. Just saying.
Last edited by corvet786c; Oct 14, 2015 at 05:46 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I have never had to shim a starter on any LS based car I have owned or worked on in the past... I say just bolt it on and go... if you're that worried about it just leave your coil/injector harnesses unplugged and turn the motor over before you put everything else back together to make sure the starter is engaging the flywheel/flexplate
I have never had to shim a starter on any LS based car I have owned or worked on in the past... I say just bolt it on and go... if you're that worried about it just leave your coil/injector harnesses unplugged and turn the motor over before you put everything else back together to make sure the starter is engaging the flywheel/flexplate
Thanks alot neutron thats the answer I was looking for something simple. I guess I got a lil worried about hearing the horror stories about the side of the block cracking from misaligned starters that were not installed properly. I me its dummy proof. Just bolt on, the way it was taken off. Thanks
"First, the fact that the short/long bolt starter is any less reliable is garbage. There is not one documented test that there has ever been an issue."
I agree with reliable but the OEM design with one short and one long bolt has a history of breaking the block under certain conditions. Backfire, hydro lock, etc. Never heard of it being misalignment but maybe if the starter was the problem. The design does not require a shim.
Well documented, if you don't believe it just ask Bill Curlee. I even created a Thread on it.
I have the Thread at home. Will find it and post. Using a 2 bolt is a safety factor. If your block breaks it used to be you had to replace the block or pull the motor and have it welded. Many had it done under warranty with a new engine.
Bill had a Navy Nuke welder good enough to do it in place.
There is a vendor who sells a "fix" but it is two or three times the cost of starter. I'll post that also.
Mine broke off the block at about 35,000 miles, but as mentioned above, it was not due to an "alignment" or "installation" issue. After 8 years as my DD I just turned the key to start the car as usual in the driveway and "bang", the starter broke and took a piece of the block with it.
I was lucky that my GMPP extended warranty replaced my engine, but I still hold my breath every time I turn the key 7 years later!
I think there may be some logic to replacing with the 2-long-bolt starters if it is indeed the starter flange on the short-bolt side of the starter that is the root of the problem, but again as stated above I have not seen any statistical data to confirm that as an absolute solution.
Where my starter (or block) failed... chicken or egg?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I've seen far too many of these failures with the short ear starters and I worried about mine all the time... when I had my headers out of the way when doing my clutch I decided to spend the $100 and got a bosch sr8581n just for peace of mind... I have not heard of a single failure with the 2 long bolt style starters so for me that is all the info I needed to make my decision
I appreciate all the info and replys, I just bought mine from autozone, and they mentioned in their instruction manuel technical bulletin that there is a different design requiring 2 long bolts. So we will see how this goes.
Proper starter alignment
