So - even though I'll be putting the Z away for the winter in a month or so, my birthday is coming up and the wife has OK'd a "combined" bday/xmas splurge on the Z.

I am on the fence on whether to do LT headers/ported TB/T-stat and retune or cam package (includes new balancer, chain, pushrods, lifters, ported TB, T-stat/retune etc.) - Obviously I'd like to do both @ the same time as it would be the biggest gain and cheaper in the long run, but its too much for me to blow @ one time.

The cam would be something like a 227/224 114lsa - "streetable" and run $2650 all-in

The header package would be using ARH 1-3/4" and would be $2150 all-in.


On the one hand I'm guessing power-wise the gains from just the cam package install would be MAYBE 10whp over what I would see w/ just LT headers, and in order to really get the full benefit I'd be adding headers down the road too, and I also am guessing I wouldn't pick up much in the way of "sound" as the stock manifolds/cats/TI catback would muffle it pretty good. On the other hand the cam install would address a number of "weak points" in the motor, and while in there could probably due a new oil pump and speed bleeder for the clutch since there would be more room and cheaper to do than if I wanted to address those things later on.


W/ regards to the LT headers - I know I need them no matter what to establish the "backbone" of a performance build (car already has vararam intake, new valve springs, tune) and I know it'll give some good power all over the curve - I have had headers on a silverado, G8 GT, GTO, so I am well aware how LSx engines respond w/ headers. I just hate spending that kind of money for just some stainless pipe.

Thoughts? Does it matter or does it even matter either way? What do you think would put the bigger grin on my face and keep me happier for another year or so until I pull trigger on next big mod?

 

The cam; just not that one. I'd recommend something around 232-236/114, and you won't have to change cams later. You sound like the typical modder, and one thing always leads to another...

 

Assuming you have 02-04 headers and tune, tstat is a waste imo. If you have an 01 perhaps cam is more common first bolt on but headers/tune would still be at the top of most lists.

 

I did headers first (LG Pro 1 3/4 Longtubes w/high flow cats, X-pipe), and a dyno tune. I picked up 19.28 HP. Then you can build on that down the road. You will also notice your Ti's sound better.
Warning, this is the beginning of the addiction!

 

save your money

it will always cost at least 50% more than you figure when you start mods.

if you do mod build the car around class rules in whichever class you're racing in. the scca rule book will save you in the long run. many mods are illegal for specific classes

and if you aren't racing there's really even less point to blowing thousands that you will never recover when you go to sell

the best tires you can afford changes every 3 years and the best brake pads you can afford will pick up more time per lap than any other mod

 

$2150 for headers? For ARH 1 7/8" i paid $1600 including offroad xpipe

 

i think that includes someone installing them.


you will get more gain from the cam but i would do headers first.headers and intake should always be the first mod.you're not leaving any horsepower behind and they will benefit any future mods.doing the cam first and you'll be leaving horsepower on the table until you do the other two mods.

 

how mechanically inclined are you?... you could do a full cam swap AND headers if you do the work yourself for about what you quoted to have a shop do the cam swap alone

 

If you are on the east coast, there is a vendor here that does a cam package for 1850.00. And there is a special going on right now for 1750.00.

Shakey

 

May take to track for pure enjoyment not for competition. Don't care about recovering money as I don't plan on selling, just always wanted a nasty street muscle car, the way I look at it I could get the Z up to about 430-450whp which I a pretty much the point where power gets useless on the street w/ a 3100 lb car, and never really want for anything else in terms of performance. Cam and headers is as much as I'll need performance wise to satisfy me and then I'll probably continue to do little things over time appearance and "maintenance upgrades" like brakes/bushings etc

I could definitely install headers myself - I did on my GTO and silverado - but I'll need a tune anyhow, if I was pinching pennies I'd buy the Xspower stainless headers $900ish shipped- but then I'll spend extra $100+ on gaskets/quality band clamps & O2 extenders, then @ least $250 for ceramic coating, and will still have to pay $250 @ least for a retune bringing me to $1500 minimum- and I'll still have inferior headers.

I imagine my tuner gets the ARH LTs cheaper than wherever I could (like $1700 at least) if he is gonna charge me $2150 for the headers, install, hardware, and tune plus porting the TB - I may throw on UD pulley too.

I guess it makes more sense to do the headers first just curious if anyone had done the reverse before.

I'm not new to the modding game, but I did lead my lesson and this time around I'm building up a car I'll actually keep for a long time. There's nothing in the market right now for less than $50,000 that'll perform anywhere close to a C5 Z w/ new tires/shocks/bolt-ons, so that's why I say I see no reason for me to get rid of it. Also, I'm 35 and have always been a "GM guy" suffice it to say the C5Z was "THE car" for me in my high school/college years lol

 

I know some just have to have new parts but i was able to put together a heads, cam, UN pulley, ls7 lifters, timing chain, new gaskets & headers for less then $2k when it was all said and done

only parts that was NOT new was the compete heads & headers, I sold my ls6 heads, stock TB & intake manifold for around $1k witch helped keep the over all cost down, bought parts local from CL or here on the forum. my son and I did all the labor never doing a cam before we spent about 32 hours start to finish over 5 days hardest part of the hole job was removing the crank pulley (PITA!) it was very rewarding for us both on that 1st startup the big smile came on dyno day 448rwhp - 400rwtq not a monster by any means but very fun street car for sure

I spent $500 for some used ported 243's and $450 for a set of used kooks headers and X pipe scored a NIB cam for $225, took about a month or so searching for parts then a trip to the dealer for the rest and a local speed shop for the UD pulley. only thing I paid to have done was have the heads checked ($140) and the tuning ($450)

it can be done on a budget!

 

I have time to search around, I'm fine tackling exhaust, headers, intake, plugs, wires, brakes, short throw shifter installs but pulling a cam is where I draw a line....@ least for now, although winter is around the corner & i suppose I could take all the time I want tackling it since I won't be driving it at all.....

Do you need the car on jack stands to do cam install? Looks like you could do it all from the top but would need to remove maybe the radiator? Definitely remove the intake/plenum/TB right?

 

it will definitely have to be on jack stands to remove all the parts that need to come off in order to get to the cam... radiator will have to come out but you can use a bungee cord to hold the a/c condenser up an out of the way... I left my hood on since I was doing it alone and due to that and being bent over so far I found it much easier to take the cam out and install the new one from the bottom... if the hood was off you could get it out pretty easy from the front of the car... the steering rack is what bothers a lot of people but you don't have to completely remove it... once it is unbolted and lines disconnected you can slide it over to the passenger side as far as it will go and then tilt the drivers side tie rod at an angle so it clears the front cover area... but if you would rather remove the rack from the car you will need to lower the cradle just a bit so you will have room for it to come out

 

I felt the same way (really i did) but to be honest my budget at the time could not support the cost of labor, i'm just a back yard parts swap guy with basic tools but my addiction pushed my skills LOL!

its not difficult at all just really time consuming theses LSx engines are pretty straight forward. I was worried about pulling the steering rack it was not a hard task at all though, I had the hood off and the front of the car on ramps just so i didnt have to bend over so much, pulling the part out we bagged and tagged the bolts and took pictures a long the way but we never needed the pictures every thing just feel back in place, the cam timing is really easy just line the dots up getting the crank pulley for me was really the hardest part about 4 hours and some rental tools from a local parts store

I looked at it like if i could not complete the job at least I'd be saving labor cost since i knew i could take it a part, with so much info on the internet with how to's that i read (lots of great info) i just started to rip the car a part, i'm actually thinking of doing another cam swap for a little bigger one (it was that straight forward)

 

lot of guys have picked up a good deal more midrange and top end with just headers and a vararam. could start there and if you want more both parts support reasonable hp levels.

the debate is 1-7/8 or 1/3/4 the later would be my choice for a street car

 

Yeah I thought about it over the weekend, as I said I have put headers on a few other vehicles and it's always better to start from the ground up - the headers will maximize the cars total potential as it sits, but just a cam I'd be leaving hp on the table & ultimately the car won't be running as good as it could/should if it had headers on already to compliment the cam.

My goal from the start w/ this Z is to have a mostly stock looking, clean, bolted & cammed street car that will turn heads when you get on it & not draw too much attention if I don't want to. Would like to hit 420-450whp - adding ARH 1-3/4" headers while porting the TB & doing an UD pulley & retune should net me a nice bump on power on both the mustang & butt dyno lol!!

It made 368whp w/ just vararam, new plugs/wires/springs & tune...on a stingy mustang dyno. I'm guessing it'll be in the 380-395whp range after the header package is complete.

The Z desensitizes you to speed/power though, like anything else you get used to it & want more. My G8 GT had catless JBA 1-3/4" headers into 3" magnaflow X pipe into 2.5" magnaflow axle back, vararam intake, ported TB/intake, livernois stage 1 DOD delete cam, & a vigilante 2800 stall- this boat put down 388whp (same dyno/tuner my Z went to- on a dynojet I'm sure it would've come close to or cracked the 400 mark) and I remember thinking it was the fastest thing out there and yet my tuned mostly stock Z is faster as it sits.....everything is relative I guess lol