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I have a 2004 non DD with low miles (20K) and the cable broke at the shifter. Interestingly it broke the day after I had to move the car back and forth in the garage in order to position it on my Race Ramps as I was planning my annual CCW wheel pull, sand, and polish. Maybe my moving the shifter back and forth so many times caused the 12 year old part to break off. Since the car was in park when I noticed the failure, I jacked up the rear and and after confirming the transmission link was still engaged, manually moved the transmission arm two clicks to Neutral. Flat bed tow did the rest.
I understand this fix is pretty straightforward, however only if you have the tools and equipment to really get underneath the car. I have ramps and jack stands and even though I can get under the car to check stuff out or do an oil change, I don't want to lie on my back and try to perform major repairs. Therefore I'm having the dealership service team replace the entire cable assembly so that I obtain a new warranty on the OEM part. The first one lasted 12 years so I expect the new one to last that long as well.
I have a 2004 non DD with low miles (20K) and the cable broke at the shifter. Interestingly it broke the day after I had to move the car back and forth in the garage in order to position it on my Race Ramps as I was planning my annual CCW wheel pull, sand, and polish. Maybe my moving the shifter back and forth so many times caused the 12 year old part to break off. Since the car was in park when I noticed the failure, I jacked up the rear and and after confirming the transmission link was still engaged, manually moved the transmission arm two clicks to Neutral. Flat bed tow did the rest.
I understand this fix is pretty straightforward, however only if you have the tools and equipment to really get underneath the car. I have ramps and jack stands and even though I can get under the car to check stuff out or do an oil change, I don't want to lie on my back and try to perform major repairs. Therefore I'm having the dealership service team replace the entire cable assembly so that I obtain a new warranty on the OEM part. The first one lasted 12 years so I expect the new one to last that long as well.
How many hours of labor did they charge? I would not attempt it either.
I can see me replacing mine with a new cable as preventive maintenance and the new one failing due to factory defect the next day! That would be my luck.
Yeah, I bought the bushing kit from the FLAPS. One bushing was a perfect fit. In removing the worn out factory bushing I put too much lateral force on the cable housing at the shifter end and that "snap" told me I was FUBARED. As I had already opened the package I went ahead and installed the bushing at the shifter end and it fit perfectly. I installed the cable back onto the shifter and it worked perfectly from Park to Low position. ONCE and once only. With the housing broken it would not return to the park position. Flatbed to dealer, new cable assembly installed. Done.
My daughter's '99 failed at the transmission late at night 15 miles from home. I jacked it up with the emergency brakes on, slipped a jack stand in for safety, and crawled under to put it in "DRIVE". After I let it back down, the car started since the shifter was still in "PARK" (had my foot on the brake when I started it), then I drove it home while she drove my car home. Bought the $5 nylon bushing kit from Advance Auto the next day, jacked it up/placed jack stands under it, then popped the bushing on in less than 2 minutes...took me longer to jack it up/place the jack stands then it did for the fix. Never had another problem for the next 4-5 years she had it. There's a thread in the "TECH" section telling all about it, do a search...it also includes the part number to the nylon bushing kit.
Are these the bushings?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181805232209?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
One of them will fit perfect! It may take a little bit of force to get it on, I used moly grease and a large screwdriver as a pry bar to get leverage. No need to drop the exhaust either.
Yeah, they definitely added in the Corvette tax. I may pick up the assortment to keep in the rear compartment.
Found best deal: 5.99 with free shipping on ebay. Dorman part no. 14041
How many hours of labor did they charge? I would not attempt it either.
Mine broke 1000 miles from home. Book calls for 1.8 hrs labor to change it out. I got reamed for 4 hrs labor, got charged for a stud kit, 2 donuts, 2 gaskets, new cable. Total charge was $480 after a generous 10% discount. Mine failed in drive, was able to hook up a remote start to drive it in, saved a tow charge.
Mine broke 1000 miles from home. Book calls for 1.8 hrs labor to change it out. I got reamed for 4 hrs labor, got charged for a stud kit, 2 donuts, 2 gaskets, new cable. Total charge was $480 after a generous 10% discount. Mine failed in drive, was able to hook up a remote start to drive it in, saved a tow charge.
Next spring, when I get my tranny serviced, I will see how much they want to replace the cable. My dealer has always been fair to me. They want me to buy another new truck from them.
I just had my local dealer swap out my cable. Below are some pics of the original cable to give you a better idea of the parts involved and where the breakage occurs. The cable itself doesn't brake, rather the grommet connections at either the shifter or transmission:
Full cable:
Transmission connection:
Shifter connection:
Mine broke at the shifter. As you can see by the cable condition, it would probably be impossible for the cable itself to break, rather the plastic or gromett connections.
I just had my local dealer swap out my cable. Below are some pics of the original cable to give you a better idea of the parts involved and where the breakage occurs. The cable itself doesn't brake, rather the grommet connections at either the shifter or transmission:
Full cable:
Transmission connection:
Shifter connection:
Mine broke at the shifter. As you can see by the cable condition, it would probably be impossible for the cable itself to break, rather the plastic or gromett connections.
Can a dealer replace the grommets instead of the entire cable?
Can a dealer replace the grommets instead of the entire cable?
Perhaps if you gave them the grommets but the replacement part they stock is the entire cable assembly. Since it would probably cost the same amount in terms of labor, might as well swap out the entire piece. Sure it's $80 more, but it comes with a full year warranty whereas I doubt the grommets have any type of warranty. My first one lasted 12 years so I hope this one last just as long.
I know from a cost perspective, it's a no brainer to do this yourself, however I travel on business and my car had already been parked in my garage for two weeks waiting for me to carve out the time to try and repair it myself. I chose the dealership route so that the car was ready for me to pick up when I arrived back home from my last trip. I would have liked to save the money, but in this case the time value of money was in my favor to just have the work outsourced.
Of course they can, just as we as owners can, but that's not what they'll try to sell you. They want to sell you on replacing the whole cable...it's more money for them.
I will see what they say. They have always been fair with me and sometimes they are cheaper than the independent shops. They want to sell me another new truck.