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1997 C5, failed this past January at 98k miles. (while sitting on ramps getting starter replaced)
Failed at shifter linkage. Ended up replacing ignition switch and TDR because it still wouldn't respond with the new starter. After a few days of frustration, went to roll it down and huh...gears wont change.
Gene Culley saved the day - new cable and back on the road.
mine failed at 224000 miles, felt like my shifter lever was not attached to anything.. $230.00 parts and labor later I had a new one installed..sucks for a .25 cent grommet.
Of course they can, just as we as owners can, but that's not what they'll try to sell you. They want to sell you on replacing the whole cable...it's more money for them.
Yes it is more money for them. Or they could just replace the shifter end bushing for you and the trans end bushing might fail three weeks later and you would be pissed and blaming them. And then they could replace the trans end bushing and you would pay more labor and be pissed. They replace the cable assembly and provide a warranty to you.
When you are doing it yourself you accept the risks. When the dealership replaces the cable assembly they accept the risks of a possibly defective part and their mechanic's labor.
I repair what I can on my vehicles to save money when I can. Sometimes the vehicle has to go to the dealer.
Yes it is more money for them. Or they could just replace the shifter end bushing for you and the trans end bushing might fail three weeks later and you would be pissed and blaming them. And then they could replace the trans end bushing and you would pay more labor and be pissed. They replace the cable assembly and provide a warranty to you.
When you are doing it yourself you accept the risks. When the dealership replaces the cable assembly they accept the risks of a possibly defective part and their mechanic's labor.
I repair what I can on my vehicles to save money when I can. Sometimes the vehicle has to go to the dealer.
If I had a lift I would try to replace the bushings myself, but I don't. My dealer had been pretty good to me with my C3. They installed parts that I bought from other sources with no problem. They were happy to do it. Of course they could not warranty the parts.
1997 C5, failed this past January at 98k miles. (while sitting on ramps getting starter replaced)
Failed at shifter linkage. Ended up replacing ignition switch and TDR because it still wouldn't respond with the new starter. After a few days of frustration, went to roll it down and huh...gears wont change.
Gene Culley saved the day - new cable and back on the road.
When you installed the new cable, did you need to drop your exhaust and tunnel plate or were you able to reach up to the shifter?
I understand your position. Have been through it as well as family members (4 C5's in the family). We have had the experience of replacing bushings and having cable actually fail in the housing.
1997 C5, failed this past January at 98k miles. (while sitting on ramps getting starter replaced)
Failed at shifter linkage. Ended up replacing ignition switch and TDR because it still wouldn't respond with the new starter. After a few days of frustration, went to roll it down and huh...gears wont change.
Gene Culley saved the day - new cable and back on the road.
I replaced the bushing at the transmission without dropping the exhaust, took less than 5 minutes once I had the car up on jack stands. I did use a long screwdriver for leverage when "pushing" the bushing on...just be careful not to use too much leverage.
I have not looked at mine yet, but people are saying that they are moving the transmission lever from under the car when the cable fails, so it seems like if you can reach that to move it, you could replace that bushing?
I have not looked at mine yet, but people are saying that they are moving the transmission lever from under the car when the cable fails, so it seems like if you can reach that to move it, you could replace that bushing?
I just recently had to move my transmission lever and it's alot easier to reach than the shifter end. I was able to simply reach up and move my transmission two clicks back from Park to Neutral, in order to move the car.
I can imagine this would be a pretty straightforward fix if you have the ability to really get under your car and work. At the time of my tranny cable break, I didn't have the proper tools to really get under the car and attempt the fix myself. Since then, I have purchased the proper C5-specific lifting tools including low-profile jacks, heavy duty stands, and the Smith Fabrication cross beams you use. I feel that I can now at least get under the car for proper maintenance repairs, although I still hate working any project where I'm lying on my back.
I'm also planning to buy a 4-post lift once we decide on the next house.
I have seen several posts lately regarding A4 Transmission Cables failing. My question is, for those of you that have experienced this problem, where did the failure occur... at the shifter connection, the transmission connection or did the cable itself break?
If yours failed, also curious what year C5 and mileage.
2000 coupe 101K on odo. cable broke at tranny lever position a few months ago fixed it with repair kit now this am it broke at the shifter end.
2000 with 101000 broke at shifter and was a pain but DIY. Purchased a metal upgraded end link for the tranny connection but have not installed it yet. Testing my luck i guess. https://www.atfspeed.com/shop/shifte...le-repair-pin/
2000 with 101000 broke at shifter and was a pain but DIY. Purchased a metal upgraded end link for the tranny connection but have not installed it yet. Testing my luck i guess. https://www.atfspeed.com/shop/shifte...le-repair-pin/
Interesting idea. Too bad the installation video link on their website is no longer valid.
Since the grommets seem to be the primary failure point, I wonder if a better solution would be to try and find aluminum grommets that replace the OEM plastic ones?
Interesting idea. Too bad the installation video link on their website is no longer valid.
Since the grommets seem to be the primary failure point, I wonder if a better solution would be to try and find aluminum grommets that replace the OEM plastic ones?
I wonder if a better solution would be to try and find aluminum grommets that replace the OEM plastic ones?
I don't think a aluminum "grommet" would work. I'm still one of the lucky ones who hasn't faced this problem yet but from reading posts and looking at pictures it looks as though that plastic grommet has to "give" a little so it can be pushed and snapped on over the ball end anchor or pivot point. I don't think aluminum will snap on like a plastic one would.