I have waited for over three weeks before I posted this to be fairly sure that the problem was remedied. The warning lights were coming on with just about every other drive and I had gone out and bought what tools I figured I'd need to remove the EBCM and ship it off to ABSfixer as a lot of you have already done. My engine bay is very clean as the car has seen little if any rain so I thought that the grounds were surely not a problem. I went ahead and pulled the ground off of the left front fender that is associated with the module and although it was clean(as I had previously thought) there was a little more paint than there should have been on the fender so I took some 200 grit sandpaper and sanded anything that was touching anything and re-installed it torquing it down pretty tight.
Well lo & behold-not a single bell or light has gone off for over three weeks now & I'm putting the tools away for now
I've learned so much on this forum and have saved bunches of money by doing these little things by myself that I just wanted to say "THANK YOU" to everyone that takes the time to post these solutions and hopefully someone else will profit from this as I have. So, check this ground out before you assume the worst.
YOU GUYS(and this forum) ROCK!!

 

Great that you were able to get it running right without having to spend $$$s having a shop repair it.

 

You failed to indicate what codes you were having.

 

When the EBCM starts to show signs of possible failure due to faulty solder points the "Service Antilock Brakes--Active Handling System--Traction Control" messages will flash across the DIC along w/chimes and illuminated engine light and most of the time it would reset itself after a couple of restarts but would come back again in a day or two. Mine was coming on more often leading me to believe that a repair was in my future. But just cleaning/sanding of the ground contacts has ,so far, fixed the problem.
Point being--don't assume the worst, check out the easy fixes first--you might be pleasantly surprised. It saved me 150 bucks plus the aggrevation of having to remove & re-install the EBCM.

 

And the code I was pulling up was C1214--which is the sol. valve relay contact-or coil CKT open---typical code for failing EBCM.

 

You posted while I was writing. I will leave this info to help others.

If you don't know how to pull the codes you need to learn so you can do diagnostics or let us know them so we can help.. I know some EBCM codes can be caused by grounds. I was interested in knowing what yours were. There are some that are not related to grounds.


READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.


Mr. Sam

 

IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=896875
3rd para > "Just cleaning...."