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I drive a 2001 corvette. The car turns over and runs for 2 seconds then shuts off. The temperature gauge goes to hot and the gas meter stays on E even if the car isn't running. Has anyone ever experienced this problem.
Yes pull codes and post back what you get. When my ignition switch was acting up, my car was having starting problems. Sometimes it would start and only run for a second or 2 then shut off(which can be a symptom of a faulty ignition switch) I did have service messages come on and some other codes pop up. I did the ignition switch repair and all has been well.
I've cleared all the codes prior to this happening. I've had the battery tested and supposedly it's good. The car also drains the battery after a day or so. Would it be best to change the ignition switch or do the bypass? I've had the battery a few years I'm going to change it.
In my opinion you need to resolve the battery drain first. All kinds of electronic issues will happen when the voltage drops.
Here is some info for determining if you have a parasitic drain. Let me know if I need to clarify anything of if I can help in any way.
Suggest you remove the hood light bulb first so it does not provide a drain.
For measuring battery drain I would hook up an ammeter to the negative side of the battery by removing the negative cable and measure between the cable and the negative battery post.
When you connect the ammeter the car should draw several amps until it goes into "sleep" mode which can take several minutes. Normal sleep mode drain should be 30 milliamps or less by GM standards. You will need an ammeter that can transition from whatever the drain is down into the sleep mode. If you have a drain I suggest the following:
Once you determine you have a drain with an ammeter what I recommend first is to listen to each fuse box and see if you hear any relays operating. If not, then place your hand on each relay to see if any of them feel hot. That can be the start if you find something like that is happening.
If nothing shows up you can hear or feel then I recommend you separate the two fuse boxes from each other. This is easy and done by removing the Red cable from the engine fuse box that feeds the passenger fuse box. It is on the right rear side of the engine fuse box. There is a stud there where the large Red wire from the battery connects. Just remove the nut and disconnect the large Red wire feeding the passenger fuse box and reattach the Red battery cable. NOTE: I would recommend disconnecting the negative ammeter hookup when working on the positive side doing this.
What you will be doing is measuring the drain with an ammeter to see if disconnecting the passenger fuse box causes the drain to go away or not. By depowering the passenger fuse box you will depower the BCM which controls the sleep mode so do not expect the sleep mode to happen.
If removing the feed to the passenger fuse box you then see you have eliminated the drain then you know it is something related to those circuits. If it does not reduce the drain then you know it is related to the engine fuse box. It could be a rare case where you have some drain via both fuse boxes and we can deal with that if you think it is the case.
Just so you know, even though it may appear to be a problem in the engine or interior area the fuse boxes do feed circuits to each other that are not affected by separating the boxes. So, separating the fuses boxes can tell you how to narrow down your search but still not where the issue may be. That is where the schematics come into play to track down the “real” culprit. Hope that makes sense.
Once you basically know where it is then you can remove fuses and relays to see where the drain is coming from.
PS: There are cases where the alternator causes a drain so it can be disconnected and see if the drain drops.
11-19-2015, 07:08 PM
C5 starting problem
