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the read out on my heater fades out . if I tap on it, it gets bright but then goes back to hard to see . is there an easy fix to this or do I have to change the whole face plate . thanks
I think you are referring to the HVAC controller display. There is a do-it-yourself fix here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...splay-fix.html
There are also places on ebay that fix this for around 50.00. Tstar, a forum member here repairs them also I think. Hope this helps.
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Normally an easy fix with a bit of time and some solder. Look at the link above and see if you can do the work. If not, just get it repaired by someone else - it's relatively inexpensive.
If you used a soldering iron, you really don't need any additional solder; it's just that the old solder has cracked so that contact is no longer made. Just melting the old solder closes the contact again.
If you used a soldering iron, you really don't need any additional solder; it's just that the old solder has cracked so that contact is no longer made. Just melting the old solder closes the contact again.
Yes I just reflowed the solder that was already there. I have seen the solder get like this on a lot of different GM electronic controls. I call them cold solder joints although vibration has a lot to do with this. A lot of the older ecms did this and all you had to do is reflow the solder and you were good to go. The resistors involved in the lighting for the hvac display are really small so you have to be very careful with the reheating process. Good luck
Yes I just reflowed the solder that was already there. I have seen the solder get like this on a lot of different GM electronic controls. I call them cold solder joints although vibration has a lot to do with this. A lot of the older ecms did this and all you had to do is reflow the solder and you were good to go. The resistors involved in the lighting for the hvac display are really small so you have to be very careful with the reheating process. Good luck
I'm a little miffed by this. My HVAC controller had the same issue and like everyone else I followed the procedure. However, I spent over eight years soldering flat-pack pc-boards, inspecting solder joints to mil-spec criteria and I'll be damned if any of those surface mount solder joints remotely looked like cold joints on the outside surfaces. I also ran a vapor-phase solder machine back in the day and at times we would get issues with improper solder flow but it was due to us not prepping a board properly, and the it was obvious that there was no solder flow through.
Anyhow, I re-flowed all my resistors and added new fresh solder to each joint just because... and it worked. Crazy. I now wish I had tested some things prior to doing the mod, just for my own sanity.