So I'm having a couple of problems with my 02 Auto Vette that have risen in the past week, yet I don't know why and so I'm hoping you guys can help me out.

First of all, the engine started to shake about 5 days ago while at idle and reversing a bit, yet it's not consistent, mostly sporadic. My car has 113,xxx miles and I rechecked the spark plugs and cables and the shaking has calmed down a bit, yet it still occurs sometimes. What do you guys think?

Second, my oil pressure gauge reads all the way to 80, and the sensor reads 130. The oil was changed in January 2015, and the next change isn't until 116,xxx (currently has 113,800). Based on the measuring stick, I need at least 3/4 of a liter of oil. What is causing such a high oil pressure reading?

Third of all, I live in the Inland Empire in Southern Cali. I want to get all my car hoses checked to see if there's any leaking. Does anyone know of a reputable mechanic that can check and work on corvettes in the inland empire or even orange county?

Please let me know what info you guys got.

 

Seems like the sensor has failed.

Pull your dash DIC codes for us and let's see what they say. List the codes under each module designation if any.


READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.


Mr. Sam

 

I concur with Mr. Sam that the oil pressure switch has failed. Mine had the same indications plus I noted that it had started to leak when I replaced it. As for a Corvette tech, check out Newman Motorsports in Upland. While he doesn't work solely on Corvettes he does work on a lot of the cars belonging to the guys in our group.

Dan

 

I knew my oil pressure sending unit had failed, when it would read 80 psi, with the ignition key in the on position and the motor not running.

Jim

 

Thank you Mr. Sam. That's a real nice explanation.
So considering that I just bought the car in August, I've never cleared the codes and I'm pretty sure the previous owner didn't either. So I'm just going to post them all first, then reset them and see which ones appear again.

 

Great, that is perfect.


Mr. Sam

 

OP...... There are a bunch of Corvette shops around in So.Cal. I have known Chuck at 'Coast Corvette' in Anaheim for a long time and have very knowledgeable staff, (recommend). There is a Corvette shop in San Dimas and also Corvette Specialties in Corona, knowledgeable staff, but pricey. Mike's Corvettes in Placentia (well known) as well as West Coast Corvettes in Anaheim near the same area I believe !! My trust has been with Coast Corvettes ,but it's your call as to who you pick. Good luck in getting the problem resolved !!

 

So I only have 7 codes that showed up and here they are -

A0 - LDCM
B2282 H (Battery #1 Circuit)
B2284 H (Battery #2 Circuit)
U1064 H (Lost Communication with XXX)

A1 - RDCM
B2283 H (Battery #1 Circuit)
B2285 H (Battery #2 Circuit)
B2265 H (Mirror Position Sensor Signal Circuit)
U1064 H (Lost Communication with XXX)

So these have nothing to do with my oil pressure reading or engine shaking. Is it time to replace the spark plugs and wires? Add or change my oil?

What are the official stock AC Delco spark plugs? Is it 41-110, 41-962 or 41-985?

 

If your oil pressure gauge is pinned at 80 psi when the ignition is switched off, it's most likely a defective oil pressure sending unit. Some members have been successful in changing the sender by snaking down between the firewall and the manifold with a long handled curved tip needle nose pliers to disconnect the wire and then used a long wobble extension with a 1 1/16 inch deep socket to remove the sender. Others have cut a hole through the cowling just above the sending unit to access the sender. I was unable to do the first and would not do the second. Since this was my 3rd failed sending unit, I elected to relocate the sender to an area just above the intake manifold next to the firewall. This would allow a quick (5 minute) change out of any future sender failures. I purchased all my necessary parts for forum vendor Summit Racing Equipment for around $100.00 which included the new sending unit. If you go to the search window and enter "Who makes an oil pressure sensor relocation kit these days?", you will find all the help you need to change out your unit. There are part numbers and pictures to guide you through the replacement procedure.

 

None of the codes posted relate to the engine shaking or oil pressure. They indicate a disconnect of the battery (battery replacement).

As to the issues you hare having, as has been stated if the oil pressure is at 80 psi with the engine off then the oil pressure sensor is bad.

The shaking can be a bad plug wire(s) that are just good enough for it to run with out throwing a misfire code. Do you know if the spark plugs and wires have ever been changed. With the miles that you indicate I would hope the have been but if not that is the first place I would look. This is a DIY job with a bit of effort, the number 7 and 8 plugs are a bit tricky to remove. Just did my brothers 01 with 82k miles and all but one of the wires fell apart when removing them.

If you want to learn a bit about your car I can give you a hand changing the plugs, wires and oil pressure sender. All of this work can be done in about 4hrs for less than $250 in parts.

Let me know. I am in Orange County.

Gary