How much hp is the breathless intake supposed to add to Z06? I just put one on my 03' with 600 miles and it added 6 RWHP and 9 lbft torque.

We expected it to add 15hp. We are thinking it might add more as the computer gets used to managing the addn'l air and the car breaks in. Otherwise I'm wondering if I should return it and do an exhaust which will at least sound better to boot.

 

and your numbers were ?

 

the gains that you will get on a dyno (setting still) on the 03-02 cars is about what you got...on an 01 it would be slightly more....on an 00 or before car you will get 15 to 20 or more

reason is this

97-00 cars had NO hole in top of the airbox (**** poor breathing)
01 cars had a 2 to 3 inch hole in top of the airbox (better breathing)
02 up cars have a 7 inch hole in top of the airbox (even better breathing)

now, dont be disappointed with your gains........remember, you get RAM AIR when you drive and the faster you go, the more RAM ya get which means MORE HORSEPOWE :cheers:

thanks


[Modified by Ram Air Tony, 8:23 PM 8/29/2002]

 

My before horsepower was 346.5 and torque 338.7. After the intake I did 352.8 and 342 torque.

The question is, was this a good way to spend $600. Perhaps a cam or exhaust is more valuable. At least the exhaust sounds good.

 

I am assuming you also bought the powerduct and the coupler which is why it cost you $600. You can get the intake alone for $250 or less.

If you want sound, you can get an exhaust for that money. I think something like a cam is more complicated.

I think you had an S2000 before. The 02-03 Z06 is similar in that normal bolt ons don't give you much power.

 

Are you saying I could have gotten the same effect with just the intake and saved $250? I was under the impression I NEEDED them both.

 

wouldnt you get more power when the car is moving and sucking in all the air at higher speeds. the car is just sitting there on the dyno, i bet there is more power there then you think.

 

Return it! I spent some time on a dyno and this is what i found. I tried the breathless and 3 other of the topintakes (i am not going to use names because this is certain peoples lively hood) versus removing the lid off the stock intake and zip tieing in the the air filter in place. My stock intake after mod finished in 2nd place and only 2 hp down from the 1st place intake. This was all done on real dynometer and not a accelerator like a dynojet. All runs were S.A.E. corrected. I picked up 9 hp with my stock airbox with this mod and stock air bridge. Kinda makes you think doesnt it? send that thing back, remove the lid on your stock box , and go buy headers, exhaust, or a nitrous kit (if you really want to pick up power the nitrous is the way to go)


[Modified by SilverZ06Chris, 8:57 PM 8/30/2002]


[Modified by SilverZ06Chris, 8:58 PM 8/30/2002]


[Modified by SilverZ06Chris, 9:05 PM 8/30/2002]

 

Chris,

What was the first place intake?

 

Sorry guys, but ram-air on a car is a myth...

Carroll Smith in "Tune to Win", P. 106 says...

Intake Ram (psi) equals:

Air density (lb/ft^3) X (Air velocity in FPS)^2
--------------------------------------------------------
288g

80 mph - Intake Ram =

.076 X (118)^2
------------------ = 0.11 PSI
288 X 32.2

BUT he ALSO ADDS

"In both cases we have assumed a 100% efficient duct, which is not possible---75% efficient would be a good one"

Turbulence isn't the real problem. In any piping run, a boundary layer builds up next to the wall where the flow velocity is actually zero. As the roughness of the pipe wall gets worse, the boundary layer grows thicker. As the air moves on down the pipe, it is slowed by the boundary layer effect (head loss) and the boundary layer essentially grows thicker slowing the air more. If the run is long enough, the head losses can actually be long enough to completely stop the flow (pressure differential between the inlet and outlet is zero).

Take the vent on your dryer and add about 30 feet to it and you'll see that
there's not enough pumping power (from the exhaust fan) to even move the air through the hose. The same head losses occur every time straight flow is interupted by a bend, valve, fitting, etc.

There's a piping engineer's bible published by Crane Valves (Technical Paper #410) that puts all the equations together and will let you calculated the pressure drop through a piping network with all the variables you could think of.

I got this off a Mustang list YEARS AGO when all the 5.0 guys were trying to do ram-air.

Here's a member's site that is very good at explaining this as well.
.
http://www.vetteguru.com/ramair



[Modified by Tom Steele, 3:27 PM 8/30/2002]

 

I'm curious too. Not many folks have gone through and tested them like you have. If you don't want to post to the board, IM or e-mail me.

Thanks!

 

The black wing made the most power. I just do not want to talk about the ones that did not do much.

 

Chris,
Are you using the stock folter or K&N zip tied?

:cheers:

 

Ahhh yes, the infamous Blackwing ....I love mine on my '98!! :conehead :conehead :conehead

 

I have seen several Drag strip comparison tests
with ram air / cold air induction. I would say the avg mph gain
in the qtr is 2-3 mph. I don't see how anyone could dispute fresh cold air
to the intake vs under the hood hot air not being a factor.
I would bet the mph on a stock 03 Z06 with ram air would be
higher than a stock Z06 with exhaust, especially on a hot day.

J.P.

 

that is FACT :yesnod:

R
A
T

 

Well,

I'd like to at least make you think about it. First, the hot air under the hood - where is it coming from? When you are going 100mph, how static is it? It is not a closed system. As long as the air hasn't gone through the radiator/condensor first, or up by the headers, it shouldn't be obscenely hotter than the outside air when the car is moving at reasonable speeds.

It IS hotter, but not as much so as you might think.

Second, where are the cold air intakes getting their air? Right off the ground. Ever measured temps a foot off hot asphalt? I bet that air isn't as cold as you think.

All that aside, I don't doubt that the cold air intakes do offer some advantage in intake temps. I'd like to see more tests to see exactly how much.

But Ram-air is a myth!

 

Raron,

On my '02 the Breathless Vortex Rammer intake made 1rwhp...and yes, it was installed right (by me). :(

However, after doing some datalogging with my EASE scan tool, I realized that my fuel trims were all screwed up. This made sense b/c the A/F ratio went from 10.8:1 over 4000rpm (stock) down to 10.2:1 after installing the Vortex.

I purchased a MAF Translator, got the fuel trims corrected, and without doing anything to the WOT fuel adjustment, this gave me 6rwhp on the dyno (like yours...so maybe your fuel trims are fine). I then leaned it out to ~12.4:1 A/F ratio and picked up another 7rwhp, for a total of 13rwhp. I was not disappointed in this. Sure I had to spend a little extra $$ to tune it right, but as others have pointed out...at a standstill, with very little ventilation, you are not going to get the _full effect_ (whether you believe in Ram Air or not) while you are stationary. If nothing else the Air Temperature will be higher when you're stationary and the computer at times will compensate for this. During my datalogs, the aftermarket airbox will consistently keep the air charge right at ambient once moving, while a stock airbox is typically 15-20^ higher, and when you're sitting there on the dyno with a small fan blowing in front of you, its still 15-20^ higher than ambient.

So it may just take a little tweaking. A camshaft is a good mod for these cars (even with stock heads) if you don't mind a lopey idle and the fact that it will not pass a roadside sniffer (saw one up at Hwy 121/Coit road the other day). But I know of guys who are ~400rwhp with no cats, long tube headers and a camshaft and NO headwork. That is impressive to me.

A cat-back system will sound great, but will not make enough power to warrant the purchase, IMHO. Anything that is not titanium is a compromise as far as power-production is concerned. You might pick up 5rwhp, but you'll also gain 30lbs. I would only purchase one of these for the sound. I like the way my '02 exhaust note sounds, but I'm getting older and don't care for something too obnoxious. :D




[Modified by WA 2 FST, 3:03 PM 8/31/2002]

 

 

Aaron,

You spent a lot of money!! I would take it back and get an intake system on here without a powerduct for $210-$250. Use that extra money you saved to help buy some long-tube headers and get them installed. I bought TPIS headers online here and had Speedworks install them. Made a VERY noticeable difference. Two more good mods are the CAGS defeat ($20) and a Hurst or Ripper Shifter ($150-180). :cheers: