What are the best mods for an 04z that dont ruin the reliability and likely hood of blowing my motor.

How does a cam package effect the motor? Can a stock bottom end handle it with continuous beating, but with proper maintenance?

also headers TB, supercharger etc

Thanks

 

Headers won't affect reliability/driveability whatsoever. Cams can be tricky the larger you go, but so long as you buy the proper supporting parts (springs, pushrods, etc.) it shouldn't hurt the car's reliability either. I'd stay away from a larger TB unless you plan on doing forced induction. The stock bottom end will handle the added power from a SC, but the clutch and some other goodies won't. Start with intake and full exhaust, and see where that takes you.

 

That is a tough question to answer easily. I will say that well thought-out mods using quality parts won't hurt reliability within a certain operating envelope. However, even the best parts and best installation won't help outside that envelope.

For example: A respected brand name cam and supporting hardware installed by a knowledgeable/professional shop won't matter a bit if it makes its power spinning a stock bottom-end to 8500rpm.

 

my 2001 zo6 is a full bolt'on heads cam intake car I drive it daily weather permitting (put 7k miles this last summer) car drive like stock no surging has good power makes 430ish rwhp and 400ish rwtq

the cam you pic is what going to make all the difference in how it drives

 

I would love to know your setup and where you got it done from. I also see your in the chicagoland area. Lets meet up and cruise sometime, my brothers got a built c6z as well.

 

heres the details on my current setup

fast port 92/ls2 throttle body
texas speed PRC 2.5 243's
texas speed 1 3/4 long tubes, 3" off road mid pipes B&B axle back
cam spec's 219/230 606/605 117lsa
power bond underdrive pulley
vararam ramair & power duct
lv5 rpm tans
c6 zo6 upgraded shafts and clutches w/ 3.73 gear in diff
monster stg 2 clutch
tickmaster adjustable master

I bought the car with most of the work to the engine done it had a fast92 when i bought it but I swapped my ported fast92, 3.73 diff, monster stg2 on it before i swapped them the previous owner had the work done at speed inc. on there dyno it put down 430/390 witch every says it reads low? I dont know what the current dyno numbers are since i swapped every thing and wont i'm going to do a cam swap in the next few weeks but currently weather permitting i daily drive it hot days gridlock traffic temps are under 230 degree's, no surging at low speeds, My foots heavy i still get 16ish MPG around town and 24ish mpg on the highway. i had it at GLD only have 8 passes best run was 11.4 @ 120mph on a bias ply ET street confident i can do better with seat time

a bunch of guys and myself hang out summer time some times at strats i'm the only c5 but the other guys have zr1's, c6's, cts-v, bunch of challengers 392's, GT 5.0 we'er always happy to have other join us for what ever even Mexico action

this is me should be easy to spot with the stripes lol

 

I'm going to show my ignorance here. But what exactly is "mexico action"?

Shakey

 

"Mexico" is the fictitious location where car enthusiasts from the USA go to beat on their cars and their opponents. It's a term used on the internet to fly under the radar when referring to street racing action. It's a couple miles outside of Anytown, USA...

 

The secret is in using the correct matching parts and a reputable shop that knows what they doing.

Headers will not hurt anything, if you get a proper tune to go with it.Ceramic coating will keep the heat down, as headers uncoated will put out a lot of heat.

A mild Cam should not hurt your reliability either, as long as the right associated parts are installed with the cam. Again, tuning is the key to reliability and not going too radical with tune or cam specs. You may have to change springs every X number of miles though. Talk with your performance shop and let them guide you.

Super Charging is probably the most risky, since it has the most variables. Not saying it cannot be done safe, but I would have a reputable shop do the tuning and make the recommendations.

Anything over 425 RWHP is going to be harder on the clutch and differential than the motor itself, again assuming you have used the right matching parts and a good tune.

 

Meme's are everywhere....

Been to Mexico a few times myself...

 

I've been there......
http://mexicoracingleague.com/

 

Toque, 0H1Z06

 

I live in New Mexico, and see plenty of action. Close enough?

 

for intake, headers, exhaust. is a tune/map a must? if you don't do it does it affect the reliability?

looking at some c5 z06 and some I think they just add the part.

 

I was in Mexico yesterday, made a right and quick left and there I was!!!

 

Yes, any changes to intake/exhaust usually requires a tune. Headers definitely.

 

If your car is a DD determine HOW you want the car to drive before deciding on a cam. Big power with a lope sounds great and feels good but I hate surging or bucking in a parking lot, at traffic lights or slow driving. A good powerful combo can be put together and made very reliable with the right parts, skilled labor and excellent tune. FAST_CHEAP_RELIABLE: pick two.

 

Also remember that a cam with aggressive lobes (XER) will be much harder on valvetrain as a whole. I had a 228R cam that broke a tough, new aftermarket valve spring after only 12k miles of use, dropped a valve, broke a piston, put a rod through the block. Of course your experience may vary, but valvetrain friendliness and driveability should be at the top of your list when cam shopping for a daily driver.

 

If you are talking about street cars...non road racing.

The stock LS6 short block can more or less hold around 1000 rwhp before bad things start to happen (mainly crank flex and bearing issues).......that being said it isn't going to go 100k miles on a setup like that

bolt on items; air filters, headers, cat back, intake manifolds, throttle bodies, better cylinder heads....all of these can be done and you could see 40-60 rwhp increase with no changes in drivablity or longevity of components or the engine given proper car and tuning.

Low boost blowers (10psi or less) should do little to impact longevity, again given it is taken care of and the tune is safe.

As others have stated, most aftermarket cams are going to be more aggressive on lift and the ramp rates which is going to impact lifter and valve spring life. Mostly valve springs, which can reduce spring life between 10-30k miles depending on use and the cam.

 

What is your opinion on a full camshaft package (pushrods, Yella Terra Rockers, assembled Trickflow As Cast 220cc valve spring life? In comparison to stock valve springs and combined with a Vindicator Camshaft (240/244 .608/.596 112+4).


Thank you!