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From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
Originally Posted by Stroker87
i've been told ls7 is a power robbing clutch
Yea... thats why I did not get the LS7 clutch. My Monster Stage 2 with lightened flywheel is about 10lbs less than stock. The LS7 is heavier than stock.
10lbs does not sound like much.. but it makes a big difference in on rotating mass.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cm-U...ature=youtu.be ..450 RWHP Tuned LMR in Houston I think 30 more HP with after market heads a little bigger cam might get you there or funny gas ..My 04 Z has ported stock ZO-6 heads 230/236/ 595/595 112+4 Comp cam headers a few bolt ons ,a little bigger can might work also .I do my own work with tune I have around $2000.oo in the whole deal with tune @$450.00 ,doing your own labor is the key to saving money ,really wasn't that big of a deal to do lot's of research reading and one phone call to Brain Tooley Bam 505HP to the rear wheels .. Remember try to make power under 7000 RPM after 7000 stock bottom may go BOOM .. Stock Rod bolts won't go much over 7000 for long APR will fix that .. Just saying what worked for me and how I got there..
I agree 100%. However I wasn't aware that saying I want a 450rwhp car meant anything too specific. I want a car that can run a 11 second quarter mile and still get decent freeway mileage. I've seen many that can. I am trying to not make any costly mistakes. I would like to keep the car for many years to come.
Heck, a bolt-on C5Z can dip into the 11s with a good driver and good conditions, while probably getting better than stock MPG.
A cam-only swap can get you around 430rwhp without going too crazy. My little cam makes 420/400, has an excellent curve, drives nearly stock and is plenty for street tires.
I agree 100%. However I wasn't aware that saying I want a 450rwhp car meant anything too specific. I want a car that can run a 11 second quarter mile and still get decent freeway mileage. I've seen many that can. I am trying to not make any costly mistakes. I would like to keep the car for many years to come.
Look in the mirror.....practice, guys have gone 11.8-11.9 STOCK STOCK STOCK - down to the crap tires and shifter that came from the factory. #truth
An average driver should be able to clock a 12.2-12.5 w/ decent temps/track.
You should be able to get into the 11's w/ CAI/headers/tune/tires really....now if you mean the low 11's 11 flat that is a different story.
that is true but you have to drive it like a rental (push it very hard)
For sure, and personally - I have no desire to bring my Z the dragstrip....just not what it was intended for IMHO, I have brought my previous rides - bolted GTO, bolted G8 GT - but both were autos so less chance of breaking stuff (although the wheel hop in the GTO is horrific). I have also brought 600cc and 1000cc sport bikes to the dragstrip as well....and no car I will ever own will ever be as fast for as cheap or as consistently w/o breaking....for instance w/ minimal (maybe 10 times) experience running that litre bike in the 1/4 mile on a track setting I was able to get a best of 10.3xx @ 138mph (I think...this is 10 years ago now) and not once did I go over 11 seconds - most times were like 10.5-10.8 trapping 128ish-135ish - all I did was use nylon straps for the front end to help mitigate wheelie action, so the idea of blowing my clutch, roasting my tires, covering my wheel wells in burnt rubber, oil, and asphalt in order to clock a potential high 11 or low 12 second 1/4 in my Z does not really interest me.
On the other hand look at it this way - if you ARE into dragging the Z, the stuff you break = weak links and worth replacing, every time you break something and either replace w/ beefier aftermarket piece or fix & strengthen some other way results in a faster/sturdier car for the next go around!
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