I am interested in a head, cam, intake combo. My goal is 480+ rwhp. I currently have 385rwhp with long tube headers, cats, x-pipe and Z06 mufflers. I have read that the stock intake provides more air than my stock heads can utilize. Will getting my stock heads ported be enough or do I need AFR heads for example ? I want to keep the budget no more than $4,000 parts and tune.

 

Good luck getting that kind of power on that small of a budget. You'll probably need more than double your budget:

Ported Fast Intake
LS2 TB
Mamo Motorsport heads
Custom cam
Underdrive pulley
etc...........

 

My intake should be adequate according to other posts. The heads can't be ported ?

 

"adequate" doesn't get you 480 RWHP. Like tluv sez... bring more money. Hand ported by BT; Trickflow 215s C.R. 10.9:1, TF pushrods HS rockers, Crane 228-232/112 cam, Meziere EWP, PB %25 UD pulley, ported FAST90/LS290 combo, LG LTs, HF cats, Corsa, Racecraft injectors, etc. got 483/432 corrected. Probably about $7k, with all the labor by myself, except for a Wong tune. Then I had to buy a clutch, then I turned the diff. into scrap...

 

your stock intake would be fine in a boosted application but in a high hp n/a application you're most likely gonna need a fast intake and aftermarket heads to meet your goals

 

Ok my target horsepower has to be lowered. 500-520 crank hp or 450rwhp. My stock intake can provide the air. I need to get the heads ported if possible rather than buy new heads. Having a budget of $4,000 for parts and my current rwhp is 385 better be possible. In other words I am looking for an additional 80-100 horsepower. The camshaft choice is critical and then if I want I can always use a tiny amount of NOS to get my original goal.
New question is company to send my heads to for work or do I buy AFR for example ?
Best camshaft for my target. Street drive ability a must.

 

Sounds like a 100 shot would be your best option.

 

what you want can be done with your budget "if" your doing the labor and you look at used parts and sell the parts you remove

used parts
i bought a fast92 ported for $600, sold my stock for $350 ($250 upgrade cost)
bought a used cam for $200, sold my stock for $125 ($75 grade cost)
bought used ported 243's for $700, sold my stock 243's for $500 (upgrade cost $200)
bought a ls2 throttle body $200, sold my stock for $100 (upgrade cost $100)
$625 at this point total

spend about $600 for gaskets, ls7 lifters, timing chain, oil pump, fluids

my son and myself did all the labor and the tune cost me $450

my total was under $1,700 all said and done 449rwhp 399rwtq

HP on A BUDGET!

you can get your heads done for probably $1000 or less, cam kit $800, say another $1000 for lifters, oil pump & etc then a tune again if you do the labor so $4,000 for parts and tune is plenty for a do it yourself guy other wise probably more then half your budget is going to be the install labor charges

I dont think your going to make what your looking for with the stock intake though

 

Before I bought a used FAST 90 setup, my car did 450/392 on a stingy Mustang dyno with the stock LS6 intake. I give credit to the TF heads for most of my gains, in conjunction with the right cam.

 

that's not common with the stock intake especially with a $4k budget, "most" guys only see 420-430rwhp H/C with the ls6 intake

if his or any one's budget supported $3k heads then yeah probably could make it with the ls6 intake manifold

 

Here is the progression of my build.
Maybe you can get some ideas from what I did that may help you out.

http://www.toquez06.com/dyno/dyno.jpg

Toque

 

I got one of the first sets of TF215, and had to replace them because of a valve tip problem, and even though it was a hassle, TEA paid for all new, hand finished parts,gaskets, fluids, and threw in HS full rollers. I got them for a $200 discount for $2199, IIRC. Totally worth it, IMO.

 

The OP may need to scale back his goals even more....or bring the budget a tad higher

450 to the ground thru an LS6 intake and a small cam is still very difficult (that's the equivalent of 475 RWHP thru a small cam with a ported FAST intake....not a walk in the park by any means). To get there you still need a very solid combination.....good aftermarket heads, higher static compression, good valvetrain parts for accurate valve control, good CAI and exhaust, M6 driveline, etc.

I am a week or so from announcing a new head Im beginning to market....it will be partially CNC and also hand finished and it will offer huge bang for the buck for customers that cant swing the $2600-$2700 the full CNC heads I produce end up costing (even more with hollow valves etc.)

I don't have exact pricing but I should retail this piece around $2100-$2200 and it will only flow about 10 CFM shy of my top shelf full CNC MMS 220 piece.

It will also be the same volume (the new heads) and flow around 310 CFM legit (comparing flow numbers is a waste of time unless your on the same test equipment).

Anyway.....its a perfect head for the OP's application cause it offers alot with a medium sized budget in mind. It will smoke a ported OEM casting in power and efficiency as its also a clean sheet design that flows more with a smaller cross section increasing the velocity a great deal.....coupled with the right cam and valvetrain this heads will make great power

Look for a thread I will start soon with pics, flow numbers, and all the data surrounding the new product.....I would say two weeks away at the absolute most.

OP or anyone else interested, feel free to PM or email (preferred) for more information!

Regards,
Tony

 

For $4k I vote used blower if OP really wants to meet his hp goals.

 

This is excellent stuff. I am told the Monster Clutch is not street friendly and more suited for a racing application. I already have a LS7 clutch. Done by the previous owner. The cam you have sounds promising for my target hp goal.

 

Thanks ! My stage 2 Monster clutch is VERY street-able. Pedal feel is just a little softer than stock. Holds up to 550rwhp. I like it a lot. I just did not want a huge cam. My goal was max Torque I could possibly get. Its a fun car. Even after owning is 12 years I still enjoy the heck out of it.

Toque

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on a HP number. What will you be doing with the C5Z? If mainly a street car, I would look at making more power under the curve versus a peak number.

 

when i bought my current car it had a ls7 clutch since my last car had the monster stage 2 it was easy to tell the ls7 felt mushy, shifts & engagement was weak ( really dont get why it gets so much hype?) i swapped the monster stage2 in my current car and daily drive it, you do get smoother take'off with the ls7 thats really it but the monster is not bad at all for me the trade off was worth the performance and i've been told ls7 is a power robbing clutch

if you wont to keep a softer clutch peddle stay away from tickmaster adjustable master cylinder it makes the clutch peddle feel like a old cable performance clutch (hard to push) but i got use to it and more about performance then comfort lol

 

I agree 100%. However I wasn't aware that saying I want a 450rwhp car meant anything too specific. I want a car that can run a 11 second quarter mile and still get decent freeway mileage. I've seen many that can. I am trying to not make any costly mistakes. I would like to keep the car for many years to come.

 

i'm making 430rwhp/390rwtq right now and best run was 11.48 @120 and thats after 8 passes with this car theirs better times in it I just need to figure it out my slowest pass was 11.8x (Et. Street was used)