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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 10:57 PM
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Default Winter storage question

I have a 98 coupe that is just about 99% stock.

I did a search regarding winter storage recommendations and found conflicting information.
I use Stabil and a battery tender when it isn’t driven during the winter, maybe 6 months of the year.
I change the Mobil 1 every spring when I start driving it again. So it only gets 1 oil change per year. It’s driven on average 1,500 per year, just a toy.
I’ve always started it 1 x per month during the period it isn’t driven.
After further thought, I’m thinking that running it at all during the storage months will do more harm than good.
Every time a car is started the most damage is done because there is no oil up in the engine yet.
What are your ideas regarding this question?

Last edited by StevieB; Jan 31, 2016 at 11:04 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by StevieB
I have a 98 coupe that is just about 99% stock.

I did a search regarding winter storage recommendations and found conflicting information.
I use Stabil and a battery tender when it isn’t driven during the winter, maybe 6 months of the year.
I change the Mobil 1 every spring when I start driving it again. So it only gets 1 oil change per year. It’s driven on average 1,500 per year, just a toy.
I’ve always started it 1 x per month during the period it isn’t driven.
After further thought, I’m thinking that running it at all during the storage months will do more harm than good.
Every time a car is started the most damage is done because there is no oil up in the engine yet.
What are your ideas regarding this question?
There will be many opinions on this, I would not start the car,the big reason is condensation in the engine. But that is the reason I like to change oil in the spring. Mine is in heated garage so I have different conditions!!! (because of that I change mine when it's due)
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by akapounder
There will be many opinions on this, I would not start the car,the big reason is condensation in the engine. But that is the reason I like to change oil in the spring. Mine is in heated garage so I have different conditions!!! (because of that I change mine when it's due)

I don't think I can necessarily call it heated.............

It does stay well above freezing, usually no lower than 40. The only reason for that is because it has 3 interior walls around the garage that some heat radiates from.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by StevieB
I’ve always started it 1 x per month during the period it isn’t driven.
After further thought, I’m thinking that running it at all during the storage months will do more harm than good.
Every time a car is started the most damage is done because there is no oil up in the engine yet.
What are your ideas regarding this question?
Well, following that vein of thought one would never start their car at all !! But seriously, I'm of a like mind as akapounder. You'd want your car to be running hot enough to burn off any condensation and other bad products associated with the combustion process, which I suspect would entail a pretty lengthy idle. I would think your winter prep of Stabil and a battery charger should serve you well.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 12:59 AM
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Start it when it's time to drive it, not before.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by grantv
Start it when it's time to drive it, not before.
And I change my oil prior to putting it in storage. I do not like to keep the old oil in the car when it will be sitting for 3-4 months.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by wamara
Well, following that vein of thought one would never start their car at all !! But seriously, I'm of a like mind as akapounder. You'd want your car to be running hot enough to burn off any condensation and other bad products associated with the combustion process, which I suspect would entail a pretty lengthy idle. I would think your winter prep of Stabil and a battery charger should serve you well.
OK, if you never started your car you couldn’t drive it at all.

So, if you’re not going to drive it, why start it?
Will there actually be enough engine condensation, if any at all, which is better?
Today, before I covered it, I let it run at idle until it reached full operating temp. It hadn’t been started since early November.
I put a wolf 3 layer cover and the other 2 things I have already stated, Stabil and battery tender. It only has the cover to cushion it from things being scraped on the paint by just moving stuff around in the garage.
Now it won’t need to be driven until April, maybe 4 months or so. Does that place anything into the equation regarding this entire thing?
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 07:06 AM
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I have stored many cars over the winter and never started them,I have never had any issues with that process !!!!!!

Last edited by Pounder; Feb 1, 2016 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 07:51 AM
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Put it away and leave it alone until it's time to wake it up.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by calvins
Put it away and leave it alone until it's time to wake it up.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by akapounder
I have stored many cars over the winter and never stated them, I have never had any issues with that process !!!!!!
Conversely, I've been storing a car or two, for the winter, since the late 70s. I wouldn't think of NOT starting it 2-3 times over the winter. I like to circulate the oil, so seals and gaskets don't dry out, valve springs don't sit in one position for extended periods, and the A/C compressor gets to turn over.


And I don't put a battery tender on the car. Too risky, due to the possibility of a fire, especially since the cars are in a garage that's attached to my house. However, since the garage is attached, it's no big deal to stick a regular charger on the car for an hour a week. Usually I do that, while I'm out in the driveway with the snowblower....
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Conversely, I've been storing a car or two, for the winter, since the late 70s. I wouldn't think of NOT starting it 2-3 times over the winter. I like to circulate the oil, so seals and gaskets don't dry out, valve springs don't sit in one position for extended periods, and the A/C compressor gets to turn over.


And I don't put a battery tender on the car. Too risky, due to the possibility of a fire, especially since the cars are in a garage that's attached to my house. However, since the garage is attached, it's no big deal to stick a regular charger on the car for an hour a week. Usually I do that, while I'm out in the driveway with the snowblower....
I agree with every thing you said except. Winter storage is a couple of months. I have been storing my corvette for 18 years, I do drive it every opportunity i get if there is not salt on the roads. In between I don't touch it. Im sure what you are doing is fine. Two different ways to the same means.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:41 AM
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I would also advise putting the car on jacks to eliminate the possibility of flat spots on the tires. I disconnect the battery completely and put stablil in the tank.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:48 AM
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Conversely, I've been storing a car or two, for the winter, since the late 70s. I wouldn't think of NOT starting it 2-3 times over the winter. I like to circulate the oil, so seals and gaskets don't dry out, valve springs don't sit in one position for extended periods, and the A/C compressor gets to turn over.


This has been my way of thinking also. I keep a tender on it and like to start it up. I may be totally wrong on this too. Because I read an article that goes with what most are saying is that if you start a car you should drive it. Does no good to let it idle. My old way of thinking sounds like I may be wrong too.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:56 AM
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I think modern cars are a little different than the old days, the oils and engines of today are so much better !!!!! my 69 big block Camaro back in the day just driving it easy was bad !!! (would carbon up badly) of course cleaning it out was fun !!!!!!! red lining it in every gear !!!!!
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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I've stored Corvettes/motorcycles/riding mowers etc for years in the frigid conditions of upstate NY. All sat on concrete. All had the batteries left in and connected with a Battery Tender Plus. Stabil in 93 octane gas and tanks filled. Aluminum foil "*****" in the tailpipe tips and covered with a ziplock bag held on the tips with a rubber band. Some bounce sheets inside and mothballs scattered around the engine compartment. Tire pressure up to about 40psi.

Never had any issues, always started right up in the spring and no issues. Well, except when I forgot to take the aluminum foil ***** out of the pipes. They'd shoot a good way down the driveway.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I like to circulate the oil, so seals and gaskets don't dry out, valve springs don't sit in one position for extended periods, and the A/C compressor gets to turn over.
All of these ideas make sense. I never thought about this.

BTW, thanks for all the help guys

Last edited by StevieB; Feb 1, 2016 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by FRANK J CARCIA
....Winter storage is a couple of months.
I wish I could say the same thing! Even though I'm in what has traditionally been know as the "snow belt", we've had an unseasonably mild winter.

BUT..... we had a little snow around thanksgiving, and the road crews went nuts with the salt, so I parked the car and pulled the insurance. The snow melted a few days later, but the salt remained. a couple of weeks later, another dusting of snow, more salt. It melted. A week and a half ago, we got a "regular" snow storm, and 5-6" of snow. LOTS of road salt. The last 3 days, it's been 35-50*, and everything melted, but the roads are still white.....

The 'Vette has now been sitting for 9 weeks, and I don't foresee it leaving the garage for another 4-6 weeks, at minimum.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 03:27 PM
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Any storage of something with an Engine will need to be treated in a some fashion. I have stored MANY boats with everything from Single Small Blocks to massive Big Blocks and what akapounder and other said about treating Gas and Oil Changes are correct. If the car is driven in the warm months you do need to change out the Oil prior to shutdown, get the crap out of it with fresh Mobil 1 ( or?). Drive it just to get the new oil circulated and burn off any Mosture. Have the Gas stabilizer added to a Full tank if you so desire but I have done a 1/2 tank treated then adding 3-5 gallons every 6-8 weeks so when its warm out its got a reasonably fresh load of Gas. With the newer "Good" brand named trickle chargers you will have no issues with "Fires". If anything a Diode or SCR will blow inside the units. They are all typically UL/CSA/VDE so I see no issue using one for extended storage but if you like to disconnect the Battery that's OK too.


Air up the tires or put it on jack stands, what ever you feel is best for your situation. I usually park on a thick carpet, air up to 38-40 lbs, put the cover on and forget. I do check at this time my antifreeze setting with a cheap Prestolite "Checker" just for piece of mind. That's no big deal but I like to know that all is well with the fluids.


Everyone has their way of Winterizing so make the plan and do it.


Now I will add that if the weather does get above 50, I will start and drive it for a Cruse as I'm like one who commented regarding internal oils and moving parts, just my own piece of mind. In the 60's when my Family was producing Racing Engines we never even thought to worry about storing stuff, we just changed oil and parked. Once the snow melted, fired up the Engines and headed to the track. Never had any issues ( other than one time when a rod let go at 9K on the first run - lucky me).
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