or maybe "IT HAULS"
2000 Black FRC Progress Thread!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
Thanks. I've been working on it almost every single day for the past 2 weeks. Over the weekend I got the torque tube reassembled and back in the car, and suspended lightly on the stiffening plate temporarily. The trans and diff are reassembled, bolted to each other, and the Pfadt mount is on the diff. Clutch is in and longtubes are bolted back up after some wiggling. Hoping it all goes back together smoothly. Planning to have it on the road this week/weekend at the latest.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
Time for some updates:
Bunch of small updates, I have been working on this thing a couple days a week getting little things done.
Torque tube out
_DSC7628 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Removed the World's Largest Snap Ring using a pair of needlenose
_DSC7631 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Driveshaft out, inspecting the 2 rubber couplers:
_DSC7687 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
How cool is that! Made in West Germany! makes you wonder how old the tooling/mold is, and if it's still in use today...has to be from the 80s, at the latest...
_DSC7686 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
The originals had 115K on them and were in ok shape, but were starting to crack. The GM replacements were $180 EACH. Turns out there is a BMW application made by Febi/Bilstein that is a functionally identical but much less expensive.
Factory torque spec is fairly high on these, apparently I have shitty tools.
_DSC7692 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Ah, the good old BMW days, proper giubo orientation and loctite on fasteners
_DSC7693 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
New pilot bearing
_DSC7689 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Drilled out the line on the new LS6 slave, before and after. The "after" is still a baby .125", LOL.
_DSC7677 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Took a break from mechanical work to refinish the original period correct N73 Magnesium wheels. These were a $3000 option back in the day and were fairly rare. I picked up another pair of rears to have a square 18x9.5" setup all the way around. I'll probably end up using these as track wheels only.
_DSC7680 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Torque tube out
_DSC7628 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrRemoved the World's Largest Snap Ring using a pair of needlenose
_DSC7631 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrDriveshaft out, inspecting the 2 rubber couplers:
_DSC7687 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrHow cool is that! Made in West Germany! makes you wonder how old the tooling/mold is, and if it's still in use today...has to be from the 80s, at the latest...
_DSC7686 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrThe originals had 115K on them and were in ok shape, but were starting to crack. The GM replacements were $180 EACH. Turns out there is a BMW application made by Febi/Bilstein that is a functionally identical but much less expensive.
Factory torque spec is fairly high on these, apparently I have shitty tools.
_DSC7692 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrAh, the good old BMW days, proper giubo orientation and loctite on fasteners
_DSC7693 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrNew pilot bearing
_DSC7689 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrDrilled out the line on the new LS6 slave, before and after. The "after" is still a baby .125", LOL.
_DSC7677 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrTook a break from mechanical work to refinish the original period correct N73 Magnesium wheels. These were a $3000 option back in the day and were fairly rare. I picked up another pair of rears to have a square 18x9.5" setup all the way around. I'll probably end up using these as track wheels only.
_DSC7680 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrStock photo of Pfadt Trans mount vs stocker to hopefully knock down some of the wheel hop
2 mount by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
LS7 Flywheel all degreased and ready to slam in
2 mount by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
While reassembling the T56 I had some trouble lining up the shift rails on the guide pins, as the rails want to walk down when the trans is sitting vertically. Made some Sharpie marks on the rail blocks to be able to peek through the guide pin holes and get an idea of where they were. Worked like a charm.
_DSC7696 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC7697 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Took a break from the monotony to go to Vegas and kick the **** out of some cars. Somehow it rained that day...in Vegas...in the desert...
_DSC7647 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC7654 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC7644 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC7667 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC7661 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
2 mount by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrLS7 Flywheel all degreased and ready to slam in
2 mount by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrWhile reassembling the T56 I had some trouble lining up the shift rails on the guide pins, as the rails want to walk down when the trans is sitting vertically. Made some Sharpie marks on the rail blocks to be able to peek through the guide pin holes and get an idea of where they were. Worked like a charm.
_DSC7696 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr_DSC7697 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrTook a break from the monotony to go to Vegas and kick the **** out of some cars. Somehow it rained that day...in Vegas...in the desert...
_DSC7647 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr_DSC7654 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr_DSC7644 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr_DSC7667 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr_DSC7661 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrCorvette Stories
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 765
Likes: 97
From: Columbus Indiana
I'm interested to hear your feedback. Rear end rebuild is the next thing on the list since I've got the drip.
And I didn't even get laid
Not sure if I want to keep stock gearing or not yet though
And I didn't even get laid
Not sure if I want to keep stock gearing or not yet though
Last edited by work_truck; Mar 23, 2017 at 02:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
I'll write a paragraph or two once I get some hard miles on it. So far it seems like a blast, much more grunt in the lower gears (2nd, 3rd, from 2-4K rpm) Can't really even feel the increased revs when cruising. I think the performance gain is well worth the minor "loss" in mileage.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
Here's a great article that explains the ins and outs.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-gear-works/
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-gear-works/
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
been a while since any updates, but I've been busy on this thing.
With the majority of the small stuff assembled, it was time to get the drivetrain back in the car. The Pfadt trans mount is easily the most "bling" piece on the car, shame it's hidden underneath the rear end. I installed it with the hopes that it would cure some of my wheel hop from a dig.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
Filled the trans up - this stuff isn't cheap but gets good reviews.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
So the whole reason for all this drivetrain work was to improve shift feel and eliminate some of the "slop" in the gear lever, most of which was in the factory shift linkage that runs from the lever back to the trans. The small factory u-joint consists of a small pin held in a brass bushing, which had worn out.
Measuring for the new setup:
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
A factory replacement shift linkage u-joint doesn't exist, and I think the linkage arm is discontinued. The other option was a custom machined replacement brass bushing, but that would have worn the same way as the old unit. So I found a universal steering shaft u-joint on Amazon, chopped the ends off it, and welded it to the linkage. ZERO slop achieved!
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
While the rear subframe was out I also tossed in new sway bar bushings. In retrospect, I should have installed all new poly bushings in the control arms while the cradle was out, but I was confident that the Pfadt trans brace would cure the wheel hop. (This did not end up being the case).
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
How to get the ultimate lows - remove wheels and put the lift all the way down.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
With the majority of the small stuff assembled, it was time to get the drivetrain back in the car. The Pfadt trans mount is easily the most "bling" piece on the car, shame it's hidden underneath the rear end. I installed it with the hopes that it would cure some of my wheel hop from a dig.
Filled the trans up - this stuff isn't cheap but gets good reviews.
So the whole reason for all this drivetrain work was to improve shift feel and eliminate some of the "slop" in the gear lever, most of which was in the factory shift linkage that runs from the lever back to the trans. The small factory u-joint consists of a small pin held in a brass bushing, which had worn out.
Measuring for the new setup:
A factory replacement shift linkage u-joint doesn't exist, and I think the linkage arm is discontinued. The other option was a custom machined replacement brass bushing, but that would have worn the same way as the old unit. So I found a universal steering shaft u-joint on Amazon, chopped the ends off it, and welded it to the linkage. ZERO slop achieved!
While the rear subframe was out I also tossed in new sway bar bushings. In retrospect, I should have installed all new poly bushings in the control arms while the cradle was out, but I was confident that the Pfadt trans brace would cure the wheel hop. (This did not end up being the case).
How to get the ultimate lows - remove wheels and put the lift all the way down.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
The rest of the work was boring reassembly, I tend to get a little OCD with torquing everything to factory spec, but the first start/drive went flawlessly (despite being 20F outside).
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
So after a long and agonizing 500 mile break in for the clutch, trans, and new rear gears (of which all was spend <50mph), it was time to put it to the test.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
Hauls stuff like a beast.
I had a titanium Z06 exhaust on the car but sold it to a local with an automatic C5 ragtop - I installed it for him, and he was kind enough to leave me his old stockers (stainless steel). So now I had that stainless set, in addition to the stainless stockers on the car that I bought last year. More on that later...
The factory tips are awfully ugly, so I chopped up some spare 3" polished stainless laying around and chucked it up in the drill press to spend time polishing it. The final effect is a brushed finish. I used a 3" hole saw to cut a slug out of a 2x4, then jammed the wood inside the pipe, put a nut and bolt through the wood, and got it all in the drill press.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
Welded over the existing oval (trimmed) tips:
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
I used a small steel rod welded to each pair of tips to keep them perfectly square and level.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
Finally installed my race pads in prep for an open lapping session at Toronto Motorsports Park. Great stopping power (finally activates the ABS) but dust extremely hard.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
Track day bro
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
Great evening lapping - but it exposed a few flaws in the car. Still need to address the minor oil consumption issue that only occurs on track, so an LS6 valley cover/PCV is waiting in a box in the garage. I also found myself wishing for more grip in corners. More on that later in a future update...
Finally, I got fed up with the wheel hop that occurs when aggressively leaving a light, so I ordered up a full set of Energy Suspension Control Arm bushings - in the process of installing that now. Like I said earlier, I should have done that while the cradle was out, but such is life.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr
I'm working on this thing quite often now, so hopefully I'll be posting more updates soon.
So after a long and agonizing 500 mile break in for the clutch, trans, and new rear gears (of which all was spend <50mph), it was time to put it to the test.
Hauls stuff like a beast.
I had a titanium Z06 exhaust on the car but sold it to a local with an automatic C5 ragtop - I installed it for him, and he was kind enough to leave me his old stockers (stainless steel). So now I had that stainless set, in addition to the stainless stockers on the car that I bought last year. More on that later...
The factory tips are awfully ugly, so I chopped up some spare 3" polished stainless laying around and chucked it up in the drill press to spend time polishing it. The final effect is a brushed finish. I used a 3" hole saw to cut a slug out of a 2x4, then jammed the wood inside the pipe, put a nut and bolt through the wood, and got it all in the drill press.
Welded over the existing oval (trimmed) tips:
I used a small steel rod welded to each pair of tips to keep them perfectly square and level.
Finally installed my race pads in prep for an open lapping session at Toronto Motorsports Park. Great stopping power (finally activates the ABS) but dust extremely hard.
Track day bro
Great evening lapping - but it exposed a few flaws in the car. Still need to address the minor oil consumption issue that only occurs on track, so an LS6 valley cover/PCV is waiting in a box in the garage. I also found myself wishing for more grip in corners. More on that later in a future update...
Finally, I got fed up with the wheel hop that occurs when aggressively leaving a light, so I ordered up a full set of Energy Suspension Control Arm bushings - in the process of installing that now. Like I said earlier, I should have done that while the cradle was out, but such is life.
I'm working on this thing quite often now, so hopefully I'll be posting more updates soon.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 42
From: East Aurora NY
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
New C6 Z06 shocks and Pfadt diff mount didn't fix it for me - I'm hoping the poly bushings help before I take the plunge into the stiffer motor mounts. Really trying to avoid an increase in drivetrain related NVH.
