I received it last week, it's sitting in my kitchen. Low on the priority list right now. I am trying to go to the track in less than 2 weeks so the suspension refresh and LS6 valley cover and top priorities now. Once that's all set I can play with the "toys".

 

 

Track as in TMP or Empire?

 

TMP. I am not super into drag racing, but I might hit Empire once a year, if that...I haven't been since 2014 in my old 6.0 LS BMW

 

Did you happen to shoot pics and such with the clutch swap? Didn't see those pics. Also, why drill out the slave fitting? Did you add the remote bleeder? And are you liking the Tick master?
Asking because I have a Monster level 2 clutch sitting here waiting to install. Along with an 04' torque tube(upgrade from my 10mm version) Pfadt trans mount to add as well.
Will do the diff rebuild later.
All was in prep of adding heads/cam/headers/ etc.... Have a set of 243's I sent to Advanced Induction a couple years ago for cnc porting and valve/spring work. Got the cam and all the other goodies from them as well. LG Super Pro 1 7/8" headers. I ordered 1 3/4" but they sent the wrong ones. Figured screw it. Will run the bigger headers with the hope of an LS3 some day.
I will tear into most things, but damn you are brave pulling the T56 apart!!! Tip my hat to you. How did that u joint you welded on work out?

 

Hinson engine mounts and Pfadt transmission mount did reduce my wheel hop issue. Still a serious problem, I think urethane bushings would be more beneficial than a shock upgrade.

 

I don't even consider burnouts because of the wheel hop/drivetrain shake. Were the engine mounts easy to swap?

 

Yes, but the heads were off the car at the time. Studs on the Hinson mounts are very long, so I took the mount brackets off the engine block. Tried the 3/8 shorter mounts but did not like how the oil pan was resting on the leaf-spring. I exchanged them for stock height.

 

No pics of the clutch swap, it's a fairly straightforward process. Of course I replaced the pilot bearing along with the rear main seal. I attempted to replace the rear cover seal but wasn't able to remove the top bolts, as they were hitting something, don't recall what. Neither part was bad of course, I just always get a bad case of the "while you're in there".

Slave fitting was drilled out to allow more fluid to flow when the clutch pedal is depressed. The "Drill Mod" as it is called, is a very well known mod over on LS1Tech. It removes the tiny orfice in the line that is used to dampen any drivetrain shock from abrupt clutch usage (I can dampen it on my own, thank you).

The Tick master is awesome, it completely cured my clutch pedal sticking to the floor. The Ranger Method doesn't do squat in my opinion.

Sounds like you have a lot of fun engine work planned. I'm trying to talk myself out of a cam.

The welded u-joint is PERFECT. I had to play with it slightly to get it to pass through the rear bellhousing without hitting it, but it worked nicely. There is officially ZERO slop in the shift linkage. There is still some slop internally in the transmission, but I'll have to live with it. Maybe I'll go with a TR6060 one day.

 

So I've been tinkering with little stuff on this thing but nothing really worth mentioning except for this

The original paint is not up to my standards (rock chips and very fine sandblasting of front bumper and fenders around wheels). I am of the mindset that repainting body panels/permanent color changes devalue a car, so a total respray is out of the question.

I have been tossing around the idea of a "neutral" shade - something that doesn't have too much of a specific identity - yellow is too loud, red attracts police, etc etc. A shade of silver, gray, etc is my style. I want something that will have some attitude, but is not tacky, garish, and doesn't scream "look at me". My only real criteria is a high gloss finish. The matte/flat thing looks cheap and unfinished to me.

I bought some samples of Telesto Gray, Gloss Dark Gray, and a 3M Metallic Gray. I put the Telesto Grey sample strip on the car, spanning multiple body lines, and it just didn't have the depth I was looking for. Looked somewhat cheap and showed marks/scratches easily, because there was nothing to draw the eye away from those blemishes. So that killed that idea.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/nogiba/, on Flickr

Here's what I'm thinking: Anthracite Gray by 3M has the right shade of brightness to it while including enough metallic flake to give it depth. I love how it looks in that last picture.




I like how it has that depth when out of the light....



But has that brilliant glossy finish with light applied.



Looks really nice pulled off on this Miata.



And even better on this S4
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/29648937@N03/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/29648937@N03/, on Flickr

I guess the closest C5 factory color to this shade would be a Medium Spiral Gray, which was never available on the FRC body style...


Here is a Medium Spiral Gray C5 for reference.




just found this over on the 'Tech - Cyber Grey C5Z06

 

wow, that cyber grey Z is something else

 

Holy crap that cyber grey looks amazing

 

 

I am planning to swap an L92/LS3 into my C5 this winter, so I thought it was a great time to get some baseline figures. She's a 2000 C5 Fixed Roof Coupe, with all the options (HUD, dual zone automatic climate control, etc).

Power modifications:

Flip Tie Mod
LS6 intake manifold
XS Power Longtube headers with 3" cutouts before the axleback.
Catless 3" x-pipe
Stock C5 catback
ECS Mail Order Tune
4.10 gears
The engine is completely stock internally - no changes to heads, cam, etc.



Cutouts Closed:

356rwhp at 6150rpm and 348 ft-lbs of torque at 4500rpm.



Cutouts Open:

363rwhp at 6200rpm and 355 ft-lbs of torque at 4500rpm.



So, cutouts are worth about 7 whp and 7 ft-lbs on the dyno (at least, on a stock displacement LS1 with no internal mods).



3220 lbs with a full tank of gas, but no driver. The only things that would affect the weight are the C6 wheels (18/19) which are probably heavier than the original N73 Magnesiums that were optioned on the car. This might be offset by the S2000 seats I installed, which are fully manual and a bit lighter than the stock C5 seats.

 

Still following Cool stuff

 

Awesome thread. Glad to see your car was fixed

 

So during some initial datalogging a few days ago with HPTuners, the car begin to sputter and run roughly. It began hard to restart and wouldn't stay running, even with gas input. P0336 indicated a bad crank position sensor and the wildly swinging tach when it cut out confirmed that.

I threw in the new sensor last night. Not hard, but I did have to partially swing the longtube out of the way, and unbolt the starter.



Part of the challenge of working blind is that you can't always see what something is hung up on. The plug got beat up by the header flange moving around up top while I was under the lift.



I will continue to datalog tonight and maybe make some changes in the tune to play around.

 

nice numbers!

 

Nice ride. following.

 

Outstanding thread!! I just picked up a 2000 FRC last week with only 24k miles.