Just curious to see if anyone has opted not to put tick master cylinder in and maybe upgraded the slave cylinder. My pedal is sometimes lazy. Mainly in 3rd and 4th after a pull or two. Clutch was just replaced ~15k miles ago. Thoughts please! was about to order the tick but figured I'd see what people think first thanks!!!

 

i installed one with a monster stage 2, the clutch peddle becomes much harder then stock it takes a little to get use to until you do your going to hate it! after a few weeks of driving the car i was fine. i have not had any issues since, i keep up with changing the clutch fluid and use Motul 600 racing brake fluid clutch is fine with back to back runs

check to make sure your clutch lines are not touching the exhaust and are as far a way from it as it can be

 

Depending on clutch you have, the Tick MC is a HD part that flows more than a factory MC. However, there are instances that it's too much of a good thing. I replaced my clutch, FW, and all the hydraulics, using a Tick MC, and no more soft clutch after a high RPM run. Great, right? With my RPS twin, the Tick makes the pedal VERY stiff, and the engagement is about a 1/16", so driving it takes a very fine touch to drive smoothly. Your results may vary.

 

i have probably around 1" to 1.5" from where it starts to grab and is fully engaged, it does take more finessing now

 

I just recently installed mine and have been fighting snow flurries in my attempt to get it fine tuned. Pedal is more firm and travel is significantly reduced but not something that will take long to get used to.

The most unusual thing to get used to is the pedal being about the same height as the dead pedal. Until you get used to it, you raise your foot way too high and are searching for the pedal.

So far, with the little bit of driving I've done, I'm loving it!

 

I installed the Tick MC along with a new Slave, LS7 clutch and flywheel. While it did not make the pedal any significantly harder it does, as noted, come to full engagement in just a fraction of the travel of the LS1 clutch. Does take some getting used to.

 

mine is not that low maybe about an inch under the brake peddle since it was adjust for high rpm shifts

 

fyi, if you don't want the stiffer pedal tick offers their master with a stock bore

 

My car's current clutch has 100k miles on it. The wear probably allows my pedal to sit lower. It is also a stock clutch set up. Not sure if that plays into the picture or not.

I'm fine tuning the 5,000 RPM shifts now. It is close so I don't think the pedal will move much more for my application. I'm going to add another washer (anti-venom mod) and see if that is what I'm feeling in my high RPM shifts before adjusting the pedal some more.

 

i'm modded and shifting @ 6500 to 6800rpm's but stock should be 6000+ shifts

 

That's the meal ticket.

I had a Mcleod adjustable MC with stock bore that worked great as well.

 

I'm HCI with a low mileage newer clutch maybe ~15k but high Rpms clutch gets limp. Was thinking of not doing the tick but everything else to see and if problem still occurs I'll buy it.

 

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-1120-r...-corvette.aspx


http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c5-z06/

 

I have a 09 Z06 that I just had American Heritage put the clutch master in two weeks ago, and it was great on the Big Willow Springs track, but in the traffic jam it is very difficult. I did not have the clutch pivot point moved up 7/8' like Tick recommends, and decided to do it myself as I usually get stuck in traffic. It took me 10 hours but I am a 6'1 200lb old guy and getting under the dash with more than one arm and eyes was impossible. After figuring out I needed a needle nose vise grip to hold the output shaft and to move the window washer tank to get better access to the firewall side master I think I could do it in 5 hours. A small person with two hands and experience could probably do it in 3 hours, probably 4 or 5 with the master install also. It was worth it, as the force now is between the stock and the new master. I blamed the transmissions for those missed 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts at 6800 rpm, and now I think it is the stock master cylinder that is the fault, darn thing doesn't push enough fluid for the high rpm shifts. I love the Tick Master, and plan to put in the Tick slave with bleeder (have American Heritage put it in) when my clutch goes. Maybe 3:72's and a ZR1 twin plate clutch also. Anybody use the Wavetrac torsion lock yet?

 

I have a monster stage 2 and a tick that I installed and love the set up its stiff, but you get used to it. Personally Can't stand the pos MCin these cars. Best first mods on a c5 corvette is a tick MC and a aftermarket shifter. But thats my opinion.

Heres the write up I used when I installed my Tick. Also something not mentioned in the write up, take out the drivers seat that way you can lay down and also remove the bracket that holds the clutch switch. Makes it easier to get out the pedal.

http://www.supertuneperformance.net/...structions.pdf

 

Cool thanks! Already have shifter. Unjust want to be able to open up the car without the pedal sticking. Most likely buying an ls7 clutch flywheel but I just finished the HCI install and had it tuned. I want to get the clutch setup better for when i put nitrous on it!

 

I think the above instructions may not the latest ones, go to tickperformance.com and look at it, as I did not need to do the drilling of the holes in the back plate, the master twists in.
And that remove the drivers seat- why didn't you tell me that last week! That is a good idea. The new cylinder is all aluminum without the bolt holes, but maybe because mine is an 09 that may be the difference.

 

C6s use a different cylinder, btw did you tune out the clutch button for the cruise control or no, I read that tick only recommends the c6 cylinder for 06-08s.

 

If your HCI and with the stockls6 clutch and its sticking down after a pull or two. Then thats the clutch itself, if your HCI then the ls7 will work fine with the stock pedal, but if your gonna get some nos better invest in a twin disc or a good single aftermarket. I believe the LS7 will work fine for =<450 RWHP/TQ with light abuse. But add nos , fwiw if I were to install a clutch in my car again I would install a twin disc and be done with it, took out my drivetrain twice, better to go in once and be done with it.

 

Clutch became lazy before heads cam intake. Seems to be a hydraulic issue. Also know a couple people who ran 550 wheel on an ls7 for couple seasons with no issues.