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I think we are doing the same thing, bought
A c5 to restore por 15'd all exposed parts
Of the frame, replaced all bushings in the front end, brakes, shocks, sways, end links, brake lines.
Good luck with yours let me know if I can help with anything!
Thanks.
Still not entirely sure that I am going to throw a bunch of money at this. Gonna get her legal and drive it for a while. Need to get a better idea on the drive train. If it is sound then I will decide where to go from there.
If mechanically and electronically good then may start thinking about doing more work on the suspension as needed.
Really thinking about more of a street ride. Not really interested in drag racing. It would be fun to get out on the vette track just down the road here in Bowling Green. Have to see if someone can take their own ride around the course. Doubt it.
I was a MP in Germany and got to hit the autobahn. Army sedans are not very fast. WOT in a MP cruiser gets you the slow lane between Nurenburg and Munich. Took me about 10 minutes to figure out that flashing headlight meant "get the F--- out of the way".
Looks like a good car and obviously 70K is not a lot of miles..best of luck.
I paid $7500 to get my hi-mile '99, the dealer included a fresh trans rebuild in the price..took me almost 3K more over a year's time to restore it to a good running driver.
Here is my front end almost finished hoping it makes a big difference. If nothing else it looks a lot better. All original control arms just sand
Blasted and coated then all new surrounding hardware.
Here is my front end almost finished hoping it makes a big difference. If nothing else it looks a lot better. All original control arms just sand
Blasted and coated then all new surrounding hardware.
Not to hijack OP just wanted to show him the option of what this stuff could look like and my car has 145k miles!
Control arms and knuckle org with like I said 145k miles!
Not to hijack OP just wanted to show him the option of what this stuff could look like and my car has 145k miles!
Control arms and knuckle org with like I said 145k miles!
I am in awe.
I never thought that I would describle a control arm as a work of art but dam.
Looks like a good car and obviously 70K is not a lot of miles..best of luck.
I paid $7500 to get my hi-mile '99, the dealer included a fresh trans rebuild in the price..took me almost 3K more over a year's time to restore it to a good running driver.
Best of luck, OP, and speaking from experience...please take tons of "before" pictures so you can remind yourself during the tough middle stage of how far you've come
Last edited by VetteFantasy; 04-26-2016 at 09:10 PM.
IF it's NOT BROKE... DON'T FIX IT! Sounds like you found a deal...Congrats
NOW! Take a Deep Breath and ask LOTS of Questions here on the FORUM... for starters you can find parts in the forum section that has parts for sale or wanted... and there are some AWESOME vendors that may help you out as well...
Beware of taking your C5 to ANY mechanic that is NOT familiar with the C5... he may know less than you will after a few days on the forum...
USE the GOOGLE search Skywalker, NOT the forum search it SUCKS.
Take your time...you already changed plugs that probably DID NOT need changed and you might spend a LOT more time and money doing things that aren't needed and NOT doing things that ARE....
Last edited by 73Corvette; 04-26-2016 at 10:08 PM.
Here is my front end almost finished hoping it makes a big difference. If nothing else it looks a lot better. All original control arms just sand
Blasted and coated then all new surrounding hardware.
I wanted to do a lot of that to mine this past winter but had some family matters so I didn't tear the vette apart this winter. Gives me the idea that had in my head how good they could look doing it the way you did !!!!
IF it's NOT BROKE... DON'T FIX IT!
Take your time...you already changed plugs that probably DID NOT need changed and you might spend a LOT more time and money doing things that aren't needed and NOT doing things that ARE....
Plugs need to be changed so they don't freeze in the holes. Steel plugs in aluminum heads.
plugs need to be changed so they don't freeze in the holes. Steel plugs in aluminum heads.
Agreed.
I know nothing about this cars history. Looking at the old plugs it is a safe bet that they are original. More than likely they have been in the car for 16 years. Was a little worried that i would strip something taking them out. A little shot of break-free. Wait a few days and out they came.
Cheap diagnostic tool to. All of the plugs look uniform with no abnormal deposits. Ring wear is probably fairly uniform.
Plugs are cheap, easy and a good place to start getting a 70k mile car to its optimal level of performance.
New vs old. A little fuzzy but you get the idea.
Just finished checking resistance on the old plug wires; 400-500 ohm. New wires 50+/- as advertised. Don't know how much power all of this equates to but I now know that my plugs will not be a limiting factor.
Charlie, you are doing that car a great service! She needs the love and care you are giving her. Congrats on your ride and get her on the road so you can enjoy! The C5s are a great car to drive and play around with. Welcome to the club!
Plugs need to be changed so they don't freeze in the holes. Steel plugs in aluminum heads.
I just mentioned it because GM says the plugs are good to 100k...I think most of the issues owners have had with seized plugs are the ones that previous owners or someone changed plugs and didn't put any anti-seize on the plugs. I'm not sure if 10 years, or 15 years is too long before you change plugs, and I don't think GM stated any time frame for that item, just mileage.
04-24-2016, 09:34 PM
