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pulled the car out of storage after idealing for about a half hour and 1/2 drive, stopped for lunch. Return to car got the "pull key wait 10 seconds" complied, car restarted and car went into limp mode. Disconnected the battery drove car home with check engine light on. Read codes today
P1120
C1255H
C1278H
U1096H multiple listings
Any help would be appreciated....thank you in advance
Major benefit of the LMC5 is that it abandons all factory and recall wiring downstream of the BCM so you can forget the CLB and just install the LMC5. I again suggest that you do the brown wire mod as a pert of the install and don't wait for the "Pull Key...." symptom that sometimes occurs after an LMC5 install.
The CBL will not stop the 2 LBS fuel pressure ??????
Do you mean the 2mph fuel shut off????? A CLB certainly does prevent the 2mph fuel shutoff. I have had a CLB on my C5 since 2007 and until I had a tune done to the car in late 2009 I never experienced the 2mph fuel shutoff after installing the CLB.
There are far more CLB's installed than there are LMC5's. The CLB first became available in 1998 and until the LMC5 came about around 2012 it was the ONLY solution to the column lock symptoms INCLUDING the 2mph fuel shutoff......
happen to agree that the LMC5 is a better product in many ways but there are far more of them out there and installed than the LMC5.
The major drawback to the CLB is that it can be far more difficult to CORRECTLY install than an LMC5. Correct installation depends upon the trans type (manual or auto for 97 - 2000), year of the car, what variation of the Factory recall service has been done to the car, which if any GM pre-recall CSP was done for the Column lock symptoms and what if any previous owner mods were done to the colun lock symptoms.
The CLB is what I first put in my car two days later the column lock message came on and the car would barely run ?????? The LMC5 fixed that and 2 years later no more issues ?????
If you took note of my previous post I said it can be very difficult to CORECTLY install a CLB. But that didn't stop C5 owners for 14+ years before there was an LMC5....
Well seeing how it was my first day with the vette, I can't argue that ??? but I thought it was just a plug in deal ??? And I did that before I found this site !!!! Still I just read Richards web page and he says LMC5 is the only real fix so that and what experience I have had is what I based my replies on ????
LMC5 ordered and tightened all battery cables, battery is only 2 years old and started right up after being disconnected for 5 months, I believe it is good.
For whatever its worth, the only issue I ever had with my '99 was the appearance of messages/codes you don't want to see including the dreaded "column lock". After discovering that a 2-3 week old battery was defective and low voltage, a new replacement battery and terminal cleanup solved all problems and none since. C5's are very voltage sensitive! Best wishes!
So low voltage is the main culprit ???? A lot of talk here about the batt has to be above 12.5 ??? I have a voltmeter attached at the Batt. My car shows less than that quite often, starts and no issues all the time ??? Could it be because I installed the LMC5 ????????????????? My Common Sense Meter again ?????
So low voltage is the main culprit ???? A lot of talk here about the batt has to be above 12.5 ??? I have a voltmeter attached at the Batt. My car shows less than that quite often, starts and no issues all the time ??? Could it be because I installed the LMC5 ????????????????? My Common Sense Meter again ?????
If it's built into your battery tender I would not trust it. Mine reads .2-.3v less than what my multi-meter reads.
Bet the LMC5 could even solve the early year failed EBCM problem!!!!!
go ahead and mock me, it means very little to me, all I am saying is what I have experienced with my car. I also know I must have a nice one because I have had very few problems with the car. Also what I,m saying is if the CLB was the fix way do you still have issues when the Batt. is low ?????? And if you noticed much of my comments are followed with question marks like I am asking.
check mine with my Fluke all the time they must be both wrong yet my car starts ????????
No. I'm saying if you were using a battery tender/charger with a voltage reader that it may be off. My battery charger displays the voltage. It will say the battery is 12.2v but when I check it with the multimeter it says the voltage is 12.5. I had a red top replaced because of the voltage reading my charger was displaying but in all actuality the battery was probably just fine.
Bench test is good, volts 12.83. Starts good with no engine light or codes. I am putting everything back together with the exception of battery disconnect switch and going to call it good until the LMC5 arrives.