When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The shop doing the headers install recommended the C6 Z06 shock upgrade almost immediately this morning when they pointed out the F55 shocks were leaking. A quick look around and it seems like it would also be a good idea to the do the C6 Z51 sway bar upgrade at the same time.
I will know hopefully in a day or two where I sit with AC Delco and really that is going to make the decision for me. At the end of the day, no matter what happens I am just stoked to have my Vette back!!!
I did not do sways...our 04 does have metal end links... I have NO complaints about handling though and I have driven pretty aggressively in Arkansas and Colorado on some very challenging roads... no body roll or trouble with handling at all...I'm not sure what size the FE1 soft ride suspension has... I need to look at that...
Thick sway bars make an independent suspension less independent. Magnetic shocks are a nice alternative but bumpy roads may be causing premature failure. That may make the magnetic shocks costly. If your roads are real bumpy I definitely would not go with stiffer springs. I would go with C6 Z51 FE3 sway bars and C6 Z06 shocks as an alternative.
Thick sway bars make an independent suspension less independent. Magnetic shocks are a nice alternative but bumpy roads may be causing premature failure. That may make the magnetic shocks costly. If your roads are real bumpy I definitely would not go with stiffer springs. I would go with C6 Z51 FE3 sway bars and C6 Z06 shocks as an alternative.
Exactly what I am thinking Rob if Delco doesn't warranty these shocks.
I would like the F55 as long as it works. If you get new ones then you are off the hook for a while. The leaky shocks could be a blessing in disguise.
I put LS6 cam and 799 heads on mine for ~$900. should add ~65hp. People say I went too mild. I wanted to keep it reliable and don't need huge HP. Just something you may look into in the future.
I got the LS6 cam from Summit for about $295.
I found rebuilt 799 heads for $350 and had the machine shop resurface and do a valve job for $200.
LS6 springs for $55.
I added LS7 lifters and trays for about $110.
I did the labor myself. I didn't include gaskets in that price. That could be around $100 depending.
I got the LS6 cam from Summit for about $295.
I found rebuilt 799 heads for $350 and had the machine shop resurface and do a valve job for $200.
LS6 springs for $55.
I added LS7 lifters and trays for about $110.
I did the labor myself. I didn't include gaskets in that price. That could be around $100 depending.
Sounds like the deal of the century Rob. I wasn't aware the 799 and 243 heads are identical. Also, did you stick with 1.7 rockers or upgrade to 1.8?
Some quick shots yesterday of the headers in place. More pics to follow today when I get a chance to run over to the shop. If everything goes smooth, I will have her back tonight (shocks not withstanding).
My thoughts are that 1 7/8' primaries were for SC cars. 1 3/4" primaries were for NA cars.
You have decent numbers. My question is why do they fall off so fast?
From what the shop told me, they stopped the pull at 5700 because they were seeing the numbers fall of from 5100 on. As to why the numbers are falling above 5100, no clue. I was hoping someone on here might have some thougts.
There is only 8700 miles on the car, the intake and exhaust are all new so now I am scratching my head.
Sounds like the deal of the century Rob. I wasn't aware the 799 and 243 heads are identical. Also, did you stick with 1.7 rockers or upgrade to 1.8?
That's about retail. It is a popular budget build for a LS1 and I used 7:1 rockers. The machine work is cheaper if you send the heads in bare and install your own springs. The only difference in the 799 heads is that there were rough cast in Mexico and usually don't have the sodium filled exhaust valves. There is plenty of information on this on the web.
As for your dyno results... I would be concerned as to why the peaks are taking place at such low RPM's. It reminds me of what happens when the timing chain is off by one tooth. It will run like a raped ape at low RPM's and roll off early. It has the tell tale sign of unusually high low end torque. This may not be the case though since no one has been messing with the timing chain. I'm wondering if somehow the ignition timing is retarded?
Unless you are pulling an RV something needs to change.
That's about retail. It is a popular budget build for a LS1 and I used 7:1 rockers. The machine work is cheaper if you send the heads in bare and install your own springs. The only difference in the 799 heads is that there were rough cast in Mexico and usually don't have the sodium filled exhaust valves. There is plenty of information on this on the web.
As for your dyno results... I would be concerned as to why the peaks are taking place at such low RPM's. It reminds me of what happens when the timing chain is off by one tooth. It will run like a raped ape at low RPM's and roll off early. It has the tell tale sign of unusually high low end torque. This may not be the case though since no one has been messing with the timing chain. I'm wondering if somehow the ignition timing is retarded?
Unless you are pulling an RV something needs to change.
Any ideas are welcome at the moment. I am wondering if perhaps this is a matter of the dyno not being properly set up? I am sure the timing chain is exactly as it left the factory and I guess the ignition could be getting retarded by the ECM but the shop advised we were tuned in at 25 degrees when they were done. Also, the results fall off both before and after mods so it makes me think whatever is going on was consistent before and after mods.
