Balancer wobble
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,462
Likes: 460
From: East Windsor NJ
Balancer wobble
I have one now - interesting that it didn't develop until after a recent dragstrip outing and a road-course track day. I know there are a bazillion threads on this - but its not just a matter of "retightening" it? 
Pro
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 717
Likes: 80
From: Michigan
From what I understand a stock balancer is two metal hubs bonded to an elastomer material. Over time the hubs can separate from the elastomer and cause all kinds of problems from moving into the steering rack or back against the motor. In this case then no, tightening the bolt won't accomplish anything at all.
Mine has about plus/minus 1/32" wobble, but it's been that way for the last 13k miles since I bought it. I just keep an eye on it and when it gets bad I'll get it fixed. So far no noticeable change and no belt squeak that is often a symptom of the problem.
Some say there is a little wobble inherent to LS1s...some say change it out immediately. It's a matter of opinion and comfort level, I guess.
If it ain't broke I'm not spending close to 1k to fix it...but that's just me.
Mine has about plus/minus 1/32" wobble, but it's been that way for the last 13k miles since I bought it. I just keep an eye on it and when it gets bad I'll get it fixed. So far no noticeable change and no belt squeak that is often a symptom of the problem.
Some say there is a little wobble inherent to LS1s...some say change it out immediately. It's a matter of opinion and comfort level, I guess.
If it ain't broke I'm not spending close to 1k to fix it...but that's just me.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 43
From: Longview Texas
If you do decide to fix it yourself you can save a bunch of money. A new UD pulley and ARP bolt won't set you back much. It's a time consuming and frustrating job (steering rack has to come off) but we're on our 2nd DIY cam change now and it's not an impossible job.
Scott
Scott
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 30,249
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From: Bonita Springs, Florida
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 789
From: Hernando MS
I got lucky when mine came apart, I was just a few hundred feet from the end of my driveway leaving the house.. 5 minutes later I would've been on the interstate coasting to a stop without power steering and an idle water pump.
Mine never gave any indication of impending doom, I'd even checked it during an oil change less than a week before.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 47
From: Helotes TEXAS
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 479
From: OK
FYI ... I have had some wobble for nearly 20k miles don't know if it wobbled before that we didn't own the car...
I MARKED the HB with a line across the two pieces so I can tell if the outer ring ever moves... I also measured from the steering rack to the front of the HB so I can tell if it moves on the snout... and I measure from the timing cover to the back of the HB to see if it moves... If this winter I get bored I would like to change the OEM to a underdrive Powerbond HB
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,095
Likes: 42
From: Pewaukee WI
Have to agree with many comments made.
Don't risk having a HB come apart, they can do a great deal of damage that will cost much more than the proactive replacement approach.
Good luck with the repairs.
Don't risk having a HB come apart, they can do a great deal of damage that will cost much more than the proactive replacement approach.
Good luck with the repairs.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 184
Likes: 17
I recently discovered mine wobbles.
I feel different engine vibrations at 2-2.5k RPM.
Plan on replacing it myself soon, couple of questions.
I'm planning on adding a supercharger later this year, probably A&A v3 T version, engine is all stock. Car is mostly street, little track.
Need some advice:
Should I go with A&A 8 rib conversion that includes Innovators West 10% od pulley? (I think I can run the 6 rib belt until I install the SC)
Or go with ATI, Powerbond or Trick Flow?
Pinning the crank
- 1 pin front method
- 2 or 3 pin front
- ATI 3 ppin side method?
Thanks.
I feel different engine vibrations at 2-2.5k RPM.
Plan on replacing it myself soon, couple of questions.
I'm planning on adding a supercharger later this year, probably A&A v3 T version, engine is all stock. Car is mostly street, little track.
Need some advice:
Should I go with A&A 8 rib conversion that includes Innovators West 10% od pulley? (I think I can run the 6 rib belt until I install the SC)
Or go with ATI, Powerbond or Trick Flow?
Pinning the crank
- 1 pin front method
- 2 or 3 pin front
- ATI 3 ppin side method?
Thanks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 169
From: SE VA VA
Apparently, some degree of wobble is considered acceptable.
Mine sounded like a pack of rabid crickets.
Had it replaced at (dealer A).
Couple hundred miles later, noticed while there was no noise, wobble was apparent.
Pointed it out to dealer A. Said it was not a problem.
Took it to (dealer B) for evaluation (without telling them about dealer A).
Dealer B said it was within normal parameters.
Mine sounded like a pack of rabid crickets.
Had it replaced at (dealer A).
Couple hundred miles later, noticed while there was no noise, wobble was apparent.
Pointed it out to dealer A. Said it was not a problem.
Took it to (dealer B) for evaluation (without telling them about dealer A).
Dealer B said it was within normal parameters.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,360
Likes: 429
From: Birmingham Al
Yes very lucky it did not come apart when driving . Replacing is a lot of work but not toooooo bad if you want to do it yourself .. The new pulleys have been updated from GM and from what I have read they will now hold up and should have no problem and yes APR bolt for sure it just hit me I installed a new cam in my 04 and reinstalled the old pulley what was I thinking ..Removing the old GM bolt can be a little fluff 250 Foot pounds of PITA TQ.. There is a lot of reading on how to do this if don't know to much about the ( how to ) would read all I could find will make this way easer well kind of is a PITA for sure ..Been there done that and reinstalled the old pulley WHAT ?? I can see a do over coming ..
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 356
From: Northville, MI
When you notice wobble first check to see if the crank bolt has started to become loose. Put a ratchet on it and if you can move the bolt, you can simply replace the bolt. If the bolt it tight, then it is time to replace the balancer. If the bolt moves, you might as well replace the balancer since it will be the next weak link to go.
Replacing the balancer leaves you two choices--GM or aftermarket. For the average owner, the aftermarket would be the better way to go, for those who run competitive events like me, you may have to use the GM balancer and stock bolt. In that case make sure you pin the crank. The GM bolt procedure is requires an long extension on your ratchet as your torque will exceed 350 lbs to get that last few degrees of movement.
Fortunately for me, I was able to use a 30 to 1 torque multiplier for the bolt.
Replacing the balancer leaves you two choices--GM or aftermarket. For the average owner, the aftermarket would be the better way to go, for those who run competitive events like me, you may have to use the GM balancer and stock bolt. In that case make sure you pin the crank. The GM bolt procedure is requires an long extension on your ratchet as your torque will exceed 350 lbs to get that last few degrees of movement.
Fortunately for me, I was able to use a 30 to 1 torque multiplier for the bolt.