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Could this be a key issue?
When I go to start the car this happens, I can turn the key back one click and then start and everything is fine.
How hard is it ti replace the ignition switch?
The voltage is 14.1 when at idle.
Could it be a weak battery?
Last edited by sloopdawg; Jun 13, 2016 at 01:32 PM.
Tried the Contact Cleaner and Other Key
Still Not Acting Right
Got the B2723 Code Today (Pass-Key Detection Circuit)
So I Figure It's Probably the Ignition Switch
Does the Switch Have to be One That Has a Chip or Could I Have Just a Plain Ol' Switch Installed (and I Do Understand It's the Key That Has The Chip)
Tried the Contact Cleaner and Other Key
Still Not Acting Right
Got the B2723 Code Today (Pass-Key Detection Circuit)
So I Figure It's Probably the Ignition Switch
Does the Switch Have to be One That Has a Chip or Could I Have Just a Plain Ol' Switch Installed (and I Do Understand It's the Key That Has The Chip)
Look at your key closely... it's NOT a chip it is called a pellet... the two little shiny metal pieces on the side make contact in the ignition switch... it is part of the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) so NO a plain ole switch will not work...
it is part of the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) so NO a plain ole switch will not work...
I guess what I'm trying to say is, new plain ol' switch (no reader), new plain ol' keys (no pellet) and do away with the security (anti-theft) part. Is this doable or will I be forced to just go with a new switch/cylinder and keys.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, new plain ol' switch (no reader), new plain ol' keys (no pellet) and do away with the security (anti-theft) part. Is this doable or will I be forced to just go with a new switch/cylinder and keys.
8vette7 will have to answer that one, but I would guess you can't so much of the electronics in these cars are all tied together that it isn't very simple to just remove one application and not at the very least get some codes...
There is easy way test to determine if your key and the deal with the pellets on it is working right ,take your tester volt tester and the red wire on one side of the key hold it on the little black part and the black wire on the other side of the little black part see what it reads then check the pellets , do the same red wire black wire hold the wires on the pellet should read the same .. This is how the Corvettes knows if you are using the right key to start the car ,the resistors have to read the same if not will not fire .. This is the first thing that happens on your way to starting any newer Corvette ..
Got a new key made and just my luck...
all I got was another key
so I guess it's the ignition/cylinder
still doing the same thing as before
it's aggravating at best
got a new key made and just my luck...
All i got was another key
so i guess it's the ignition/cylinder
still doing the same thing as before
it's aggravating at best
I apologize for my ignorance
I know it sounds like I'm not listening (but I am)
I'm just trying the easy stuff first
Used the contact Cleaner (twice now) cleaning after each insertion (12X each)
Had a new key made (no change)
So the way I understand it, I need to get a new key cylinder
Can I buy just the cylinder or do I have to buy the whole thing (ignition switch and key cylinder)?
It's odd that the more I fiddle with it and try to get it to stop blinking the lights (on the dash) the more it acts like it's killing the battery. After a little bit it will show low voltage and the dinger goes beep/boop, beep/boop. Once I get it just right and turn the key it starts right up like the battery is just fine.
All this probably sounds like Vette 101 to you guys but it's new to me
So please be patient
The reason I keep posting is so if anyone else has this problem, maybe it will help them as well.