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Others have posted of their C5's coolant temps higher after the install.
I live 100 miles East of you....indeed Southeast TX is killer hot especially with the humidity factor.
Yes, I have read those comments as well. No issues thus far after 2 days of driving it around town, but only at speeds up to 45 mph. But I would think the car would run cooler on the highway given the increased speed/air flow at higher speeds. I will monitor and report back.
... The real issue and reason that flush mount full splitters don't work well on C5's is basic air flow disturbance. I know and have learned that if you interrupt the air flow on the OEM center nose section of C5's, approx. 32'', which works in conjunction with the bottom breathing design of cooling on a C5, you will get constant raised running temps (220-230). Believe me, I have spent a lot of time doing R&D on this. This full splitter will possibly work well with a Tiger Shark facia due to it's unique nose design air inlet configuration, maybe ?? What actually takes place is that the front splitter has two effects, (1) creates down force to the frontal area of the car (stagnation/high pressure), (2) it then actually 'accelerates' the air going under the car which creates the ' low pressure' ( Bernoulli's effect ). So what happens is the 'airflow' that would have followed the OEM ramped design into the radiator area is now accelerating air past the opening and hence the increase of running temps. I will soon be a vendor and providing a designed solution to this issue for C5 guys who want to improve the Aero on their cars. PM any questions !!.....
Perhaps some type of scoop installed at the bottom radiator opening would increase the airflow when a this type of splitter is installed. I think I have seen such a scoop on some cars here on the Forum. Perhaps in the Autocross/ Road Racing section.
Perhaps some type of scoop installed at the bottom radiator opening would increase the airflow when a this type of splitter is installed. I think I have seen such a scoop on some cars here on the Forum. Perhaps in the Autocross/ Road Racing section.
...You would have to mount the scoop lower than the splitter and to the front area of the splitter to access air flow, and then think about what you will have for ground clearance. I am just being as upfront as possible, what works and looks great for a front breather sometimes does not translate to a bottom feeder. Most manufacturers simply provide a aesthetic looking piece with no R&D behind it and it then not function properly. When I was developing my design, I had contacted some and asked them about temp issues, they answer like a politician and claim they have sold numerous splitters and ' Have NEVER' had a problem ,lol !! Do some research until you've convinced yourself, some owners will not admit or convey to mistakes on their purchase, Jus Say'n !!....
I have no problem admitting to a mistake in a purchase (Depot fixed headlights ). I will evaluate my coolant temps and function over the coming weeks. If performance is negatively impacting to a severe degree, I will remove the splitter. No worries .
I have no problem admitting to a mistake in a purchase (Depot fixed headlights ). I will evaluate my coolant temps and function over the coming weeks. If performance is negatively impacting to a severe degree, I will remove the splitter. No worries .
...I truly hope that it doesn't become a problem for you, and if it does, I can lend some info on how to resolve it !!......and by the way, I have made my a few mistakes as well !!!!
I have a C5R lip installed as well and noticed higher temps until I modified the middle air dam. On the first drive my temps went up to the 220's and 230's. I kept the middle air dam on at first then when back and put the sides on. My car is tuned now and have a different stat so I usually dont see temps over 200 even in 90+ degree weather.
I have the C5R splitter as well. Temps went up on the highway, but still troubleshooting before I proclaim the splitter is at fault completely.
With this particular splitter you cannot reinstall the side sections of the air dam. My understanding though is they do nothing for cooling anyway. I also have my center air dam trimmed about an inch shorter than original. This was done prior to the purchase and installation of the front splitter.
I'd be interested to hear what design 2FAS4UU is creating that he believes will help this.
I too have this splitter on my mod list. What I have been wanting to see is THIS splitter on a tigershark front. I was hoping it would look good but was not sure with the tigershark design. Has anyone seen this splitter with a tigershark front bumper vs. the tigershark front splitter that hangs so low?
Well after living with the splitter for several weeks now I can report that I definitely have higher engine temps. Before the splitter, I usually ran around 196-200 degrees. With the splitter, I am running 208-212 degrees, for an average increase of 12 degrees. While disappointing, I don't think those temps are high enough to cause me to remove the splitter. I am thinking of other ways to increase airflow into the radiator. I could also get a more efficient radiator than the stock one and be done with it . Still love the look of the splitter and glad I got it .
Update on temperature issues. I noticed that my engine temp would climb to 230+* with AC on in the summer, which was totally unacceptable to me. So I decided to install a 160* thermostat (will get custom temp tuning done shortly) plus remove and clean the radiator, which I have never done. Lo and behold, I had a plastic bag up high on the radiator that covered about 1/5 of the radiator, plus a ton of leaves, dirt and debris. After a thorough cleaning, new anti-freeze, new water pump (might as well since everything else is apart), 160* stat, and clean radiator, I am happy to report engine temps around town are never above 194*, and usually lower on the highway once airflow starts to circulate through the radiator. Have not seen temps above 210* since I did this work -- on cool mornings, I have held a consistent 178*-186* on the highway. I plan to get custom fan on/off settings when I get the car tuned, which I think will finally put any high temp issues to bed once and for all. So the lesson here is to CLEAN THOSE RADIATORS!! Still love my splitter!
Update on temperature issues. I noticed that my engine temp would climb to 230+* with AC on in the summer, which was totally unacceptable to me. So I decided to install a 160* thermostat (will get custom temp tuning done shortly) plus remove and clean the radiator, which I have never done. Lo and behold, I had a plastic bag up high on the radiator that covered about 1/5 of the radiator, plus a ton of leaves, dirt and debris. After a thorough cleaning, new anti-freeze, new water pump (might as well since everything else is apart), 160* stat, and clean radiator, I am happy to report engine temps around town are never above 194*, and usually lower on the highway once airflow starts to circulate through the radiator. Have not seen temps above 210* since I did this work -- on cool mornings, I have held a consistent 178*-186* on the highway. I plan to get custom fan on/off settings when I get the car tuned, which I think will finally put any high temp issues to bed once and for all. So the lesson here is to CLEAN THOSE RADIATORS!! Still love my splitter!
Thanks for the update. I purchased, but you could easily purchase some screen material and make it yourself, a screen that is underneath to keep any large road debris out. I too had an issue and once I cleaned up underneath and installed the screen I have not had issues either. Not an expensive mod and probably should've been a stock item!
Update on cooling temps. After installing a DeWitts double row aluminium radiator, I was still seeing ever-increasing engine temps. Flushed the coolant and cleaned the radiator again, which helped, but still had higher temps on the highway. So I decided to try extending the center air dam about a inch to compensate for the splitter in hopes of grabbing some more airflow into the radiator. I bought a 24" piece of Lexan from Home Depot and cut it a few inches in height, then drilled 3 holes and bolted it up to the factory center air dam.
I realized an immediate reduction in highway operating temps after the installation. My coolant temp was stabilized in the 171* to 178* range. Now granted, the outside temperature was in the upper 40s/lower 50s, but historically my car would never stabilize at these low temperatures, so I am pretty convinced that my air dam extension is working. I will test again once the temperature outside increases just to be sure. Anyway, I am quite happy with the results. And yes, the air dam scrapes more frequently, but the Lexan seems pretty tough and the factory air dam is hinged to move backwards when contacted, so I am not too concerned.