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Yr 2000. Have to admit after reading some of the horror stories about changing plugs and the dreaded #8 I was a little intimidated. To be honest it was NOTHING like I was reading. If it helps anyone, the way I got the heat shields and wires off was by using a medium pair of needle nosed vise grips. Was able to just get the tip of them in between the boot and the shield clipped them shut, & pulled. Most popped right off. One or two I used a long screwdriver as a pry once the vise grip was clipped on. As far as the plugs? I used a basic plug socket, one 4 inch wobble type extension and a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. On certain ones once I got the socket and ratchet on I then used an 11/16 deep socket which slipped over the handle of my ratchet and put a 6 inch extension on it so to give me leverage to break it loose. Had absolutely ZERO problems removing them. Replaced with GM red wires, silicon greased them up and they popped right on. The side that goes to the coil pack( at least with my wires) you'll feel like a double click to get back on. Good luck for anyone attempting and just letting you know Its NOT as difficult as some make it out to be.
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Sounds like the same method I used when I had my '00 and changed the plugs/wires. However, the only plug I had a little trouble getting changed was the #7 one - had to use extensions and a swivel to get it loose.
Your post is a good reminder on what to do when it comes to plug/wire changes.
Dealer wanted $506.50 for plugs and wires installed. Book labor quoted was 3.5 hours.
Never having previoysly done a plug and wire change on a C5 it took me two hours. They do it every day so it probably takes them one or less. I think their labor quote is "generous"?
Anyway, I give myself credit for saving over $400.00 on the job.
We all have a trick or two. Mine was to use a 12" pair of needle noise pliers that had an angle. Slipped between the shield and the wire base.
On plug #7...unplug the vacuum hose on the power brake booster and
remove the air hose on the check valve.
Dealer wanted $506.50 for plugs and wires installed. Book labor quoted was 3.5 hours.
Never having previoysly done a plug and wire change on a C5 it took me two hours. They do it every day so it probably takes them one or less. I think their labor quote is "generous"?
Anyway, I give myself credit for saving over $400.00 on the job.
Isn't Boca Del Vista where "Jerry Sinefeld's Mom and Dad lived or was it George's parents?
Isn't Boca Del Vista where "Jerry Sinefeld's Mom and Dad lived or was it George's parents?
Jerry's mom and dad lived here. George's mom and dad wanted to move here.
You used the same tools that I did. I also removed the two bolts that hold the air tube to the manifold and lifted it out of the way. Made the job much easier.
Last edited by BADBIRDCAGE; Jul 22, 2016 at 07:49 AM.
My trick was to have my mechanic do it. I gave it a whirl and with my big mits I had a hard time just doing the easy front ones. I gave up. I hate doing plugs.
Dealer wanted $506.50 for plugs and wires installed. Book labor quoted was 3.5 hours.
Never having previoysly done a plug and wire change on a C5 it took me two hours. They do it every day so it probably takes them one or less. I think their labor quote is "generous"?
Anyway, I give myself credit for saving over $400.00 on the job.
Great job! Yes I forgot to add that a New York shop quoted me 600.00 plus tax for the job. Anyway would rather get the satisfaction of doing it myself anyway.
We all have a trick or two. Mine was to use a 12" pair of needle noise pliers that had an angle. Slipped between the shield and the wire base.
On plug #7...unplug the vacuum hose on the power brake booster and
remove the air hose on the check valve.
. Sorry, I should have stipulated that my needle nosed vise grips did have an angle to them. Made it much easier.
My trick was to have my mechanic do it. I gave it a whirl and with my big mits I had a hard time just doing the easy front ones. I gave up. I hate doing plugs.
If you're not comfortable doing something that usually the best idea!
I was amazed at the prices that some of you were quoted! That's INSANE!
The SAD part about it is,,, SOME PEOPLE PAY IT!
I've NEVER had an issue with any of them.. Even #8.
BADBIRDCAGE I AGREE! Even taking your time and making the antisieze job nice and neat, 2 hours is a breeze to do it in. I've done it faster.
Yeah Bill. I have tools, time and limited talent. My double flex joint 5/8 MAC plug socket, that I bought in 1973 to change plugs in my sister's 72 351 Cleveland powered Mustang, came in real handy on number 7. That socket hasn't eaten anything in the 43 years I have owned it.
I didn't rush anything and still accomplished the job in two hours. Including the antisieze.
Gilcrist Chevrolet in Tacoma, WA, wanted $600 labor (3.5 hours) to change Corvette spark plugs "because they are a pain to do." I did it in just over an hour, including new plug wires.
As for getting the old wires off, I used a 1x2" piece of wood 18" long, drilled a hole in it, inserted 1/8" rope to form a loop, and levered each wire off in seconds with no damage. (If you slip or crush the wires using pliers, you could damage the wires internally.)
Gilcrist Chevrolet in Tacoma, WA, wanted $600 labor (3.5 hours) to change Corvette spark plugs "because they are a pain to do." I did it in just over an hour, including new plug wires.
As for getting the old wires off, I used a 1x2" piece of wood 18" long, drilled a hole in it, inserted 1/8" rope to form a loop, and levered each wire off in seconds with no damage. (If you slip or crush the wires using pliers, you could damage the wires internally.)
Hope this helps.
Good point. In my case there was no way I was going to attempt to reuse the old wires. I had a new set of GMPP red wires sitting alongside the new plugs that were going in.
We all have a trick or two.
On plug #7...unplug the vacuum hose on the power brake booster and
remove the air hose on the check valve.
Did Mine Today, I could have saved about 30 minutes if I had read this first.
I did everything I could, twisting and turning the wrench, trying different sockets and extentions, ect...
Finally I did exactly what you said, got that shizzle out of the way and it came out and back in with no problem.
Live and learn, I guess the first time is always the hardest.
I can probably do the change in half the time, next time.