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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 10:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 6speedsteve
You will experience some installation issues with the drop spindles as I did. I should have called & filed some complaints but I did not.

They did not provide a torque spec for the nut that holds the taper pin into the spherical bearing that replaces the upper ball joint. I called twice, 2 different people & they were confused as to what I should use.

They did not provide tapped holes for the bracket that holds the speed sensor wires on the front spindles, and the spindle has so much extra material that you cannot put the bracket where it was on the stock spindle.

On the rear spindles the brackets that hold the parking brake cable will not fit as original due to the extra material. I used washers to space the brackets out, and will be getting some new brackets to bend properly so they will fit flush to the spindle.

And I also got a better deal from a Vendor on here that was cheaper than the group purchase price.
Would you mind sharing what torque spec you did use? Thanks.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 10:16 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by alxltd1
Would you mind sharing what torque spec you did use? Thanks.
I had trouble locating charts for nuts, but I did find one for lock nuts the oval style, the nut I had was a 1/2-20 thin wall flanged, The grade 5 on the chart was 37.5-52.5 the grade 8 was 50-70 I used the grade 5 spec since this was a thin wall nut & I used the mean which was 45ft lbs and applied blue locktite. Is this the proper procedure? don't know but I was comfortable doing it this way until I find otherwise.

My tires & rims get removed for cleaning monthly, I haven't rechecked my torque on the nuts but I plan to this coming week.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 11:11 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 6speedsteve
I had trouble locating charts for nuts, but I did find one for lock nuts the oval style, the nut I had was a 1/2-20 thin wall flanged, The grade 5 on the chart was 37.5-52.5 the grade 8 was 50-70 I used the grade 5 spec since this was a thin wall nut & I used the mean which was 45ft lbs and applied blue locktite. Is this the proper procedure? don't know but I was comfortable doing it this way until I find otherwise.

My tires & rims get removed for cleaning monthly, I haven't rechecked my torque on the nuts but I plan to this coming week.
Thanks. When I got my spindles (unused but not directly from LG) they came with the spherical bearings and pins installed. Like you I had no specs but reinstalled them at 50ft lbs. I was curious if I was close and how you came to your specs.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 02:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 6speedsteve
I had trouble locating charts for nuts, but I did find one for lock nuts the oval style, the nut I had was a 1/2-20 thin wall flanged, The grade 5 on the chart was 37.5-52.5 the grade 8 was 50-70 I used the grade 5 spec since this was a thin wall nut & I used the mean which was 45ft lbs and applied blue locktite. Is this the proper procedure? don't know but I was comfortable doing it this way until I find otherwise.

My tires & rims get removed for cleaning monthly, I haven't rechecked my torque on the nuts but I plan to this coming week.
Generally speaking I do the race cars 45-55 ft-lbs but they could go higher than that as an official rating.

They are locking nuts and should not need any additional thread locker on them.





They are 1/2-20 thread.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 05:25 PM
  #25  
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I am seriously considering the coilovers from vi-king. I have done a lot of research and they seem like a very high-quality option.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 06:06 PM
  #26  
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To the OP, sorry did not mean to hi-jack your thread with the LG Drop Spindle discussion.
I am running the drop spindles with coil overs, but not LG coil overs. I use Stance with upgraded Swift springs along with C6 Z06 sway bars.
The coil overs, the Stance as well as LG, will allow you to adjust ride height without sacrificing shock travel within their normal adjustment ranges.
I do not track the car except for an occasional HPDE event or Auto-Cross but can tell you my experience is that the car is firmer but supple. It recovers quickly from bumps and maintains the wheels on the ground without jarring your teeth loose.
The upgrade to coil overs was worth it for me in terms of ride height adjustment and ride comfort while lowered (though the Swift springs probably had a lot to do with comfort).
To another poster regarding the ability of the OEM leaf springs to handle: yes I am sure they are much more than adequate as Corvette racing has proven. I just wanted the ability to lower the car and not give up some level of comfort and I think I succeeded in my case.

Last edited by alxltd1; Sep 25, 2016 at 12:16 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 06:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Anthony @ LGMotorsports
Generally speaking I do the race cars 45-55 ft-lbs but they could go higher than that as an official rating.

They are locking nuts and should not need any additional thread locker on them.





They are 1/2-20 thread.
Anthony

Thanks for the info, just to confirm this is the gold cad plated nut that holds the tapered spindle pin into the spherical bearing.

I also PM'd you back about your question to me.

Thanks
Steve
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 01:51 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 6speedsteve
Anthony

Thanks for the info, just to confirm this is the gold cad plated nut that holds the tapered spindle pin into the spherical bearing.

I also PM'd you back about your question to me.

Thanks
Steve
Yes, it doesn't show the plating but that is the nut that comes with the kit. The bottom one that bolts it to the arm is OEM.
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